► Tyre choices and emergency repairs

11,500 km on the OE battlewings. Front is probably due for replacement any time now. Back less so, but will probably get both done at the same time as the back is starting to look a bit squared off & no point in doing two trips etc. They always were a bit squirrelly on overbanding/white lines, but even more so now.
Mostly road use and Jockser's Boreens several times a year. :thumb2

Dunno what to replace them with, dealer has an offer for tourances of some sort? First tyre change. :blast
 
everywherevirtually said:
My TKC80's were put on at the 14000 mile mark. They are still on after Sibirsky Extreme and I'm up to 21000 miles now. So a nice 7000 miles out of them. Sure they are squared off but the front one is still not bad. :eek:

I have some Anakees arriving in the post tomorrow and I have to fit them before I head off to Dover to meet Mongoose and Zippy :augie. Having never fitted a tyre before it's going to be an interesting evening :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

My advice would be get your local tyre fitter to do it, otherwise you will need a bead buster, rim protectors, 3 very good tyre levers and you will risk damaging the rims, which are notoriously soft. I did my own rear after a puncture (having not done a tyre for about 25 years!) and found the modern beads to be extremely tough due to very stiff sidewalls. After struggling to get it off (using bits of polythene to protect the rim) I found a very slight distortion in the rim and a couple of small digs on the inside where it doesn't notice. The new tube went in alright but I managed to pinch it .....doerrr! Then gave up and took it to my local Pro-tyre who sorted it for about £11 (plus another tube).

I think TKCs may be easier to change as they have softer sidewalls, but anyway there are some guys who post here with lots of experience changing tyres and some good tools - look on
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144355
 
lunchbox said:
My advice would be get your local tyre fitter to do it, otherwise you will need a bead buster, rim protectors, 3 very good tyre levers and you will risk damaging the rims, which are notoriously soft. I did my own rear after a puncture (having not done a tyre for about 25 years!) and found the modern beads to be extremely tough due to very stiff sidewalls. After struggling to get it off (using bits of polythene to protect the rim) I found a very slight distortion in the rim and a couple of small digs on the inside where it doesn't notice. The new tube went in alright but I managed to pinch it .....doerrr! Then gave up and took it to my local Pro-tyre who sorted it for about £11 (plus another tube).

I think TKCs may be easier to change as they have softer sidewalls, but anyway there are some guys who post here with lots of experience changing tyres and some good tools - look on
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144355
Click to expand...

I didn't see your post but took the sensible option in the end :D

http://www.biketyreservices.com/
 
Thanks to everyone for replies - looks like slime is the only way to go as other options are not rated for highway use.

For those that are interested, I contacted Nuetech about their Tubliss product which looked very interesting - they too confirmed that it was solely for offroad use and illegal on highways - I'm again assuming heat build up to be the problem here but they never gave an explanation, just a response.

Oh well - looks like I'll have to practise using those tyre levers a bit more :(
 
Mousses are not road legal and heavy duty tubes dont allow the tube to move around on bigger more powerful bikes .

I have ripped the valve out of a heavy duty tube on my 950AdV on the road .

Lucky for me the motorcyle tyre place on Skye allowed me to use there workshop to fit a new tube.:thumb2

The rac will not change a tube so unless you have access to tools you will be recovered (which is quite nice when its pissing down :D)

Slime is the way to go on bigger bikes:thumb2
 
Since the previous owner of my F8 did 8500 miles down through Africa on TKC's with heavy duty tubes fitted, and didn't suffer a single puncture I'm happy they're a sensible and safe option.

I'm going to Morocco with Heidenau K60's and HD tubes in a month, and was wondering if applying a coating of silicone grease to the tube would be of any benefit? It'd allow the tube and tyre to move about relative to each other, and may help reduce heat build up?

Should I have crappy luck and actually get a puncture, then a dab of petrol / de-greaser will clean the silicone off so I can patch it.

Is this a flash of sheer brilliance or utter stupidity?
 
steforsh said:
BattleWings. 6000m and probably only another 500 left in both.

anyone know where you can get anakee 2's online? i fancy trying them and can't seem to find one for the front.
Click to expand...

Michelin don't make an anakee 2 in 21in yet so you get a 1 rated 54H for the front and a 2 rated 69v for the back. This is fine as H is rated up to a sustained 130mph. The F8 is good for about 125mph but who wants to do that on a big trailee?

If you are fitting them yourself you take a look at this link someone posted on the other tyre thread:
http://www.bestrestproducts.com/c-98-beadbrakr.aspx
One of the best bits of kit I have seen in a long time if you want to change your own tyres on the move.
Round and Black? - keeps reminding me of chocolate!
 
Conclusion on road bias tyres F800GS

Having read this thread from start to finish there is loads of support for the TKC80 but what's the verdict for people like me who ride 98% on tarmac A&B roads all year round? Mine with 6k on the clock need replacing. Is it best to stick with the Battle Wings? Yes they twitch a bit in the wet but don't all tyres?
 
Posted previously, but am I the only one on Dunlop D607's?

Had them on for nearly a year now covering 5000 miles - no misbehaviour in wet or dry unless I whack the throttle open mid-corner whilst leaning over :eek:
(but they were still good enough to recover and avoid a high-side)

Rear is just starting to square now - but much less than the Battlewing it replaced.
 
My second set of tyres were Battlewing, but definatley buying Michelin Anakee tyres, Anakee (1st generation) Front, Anakee2 (2nd gen) Rear.

I state the generation as Michelin has not updated the Front-wheel with the Anakee2 range. So you have to mix the two-types. The look the bollocks on F800GS!

:drool
 
Blobby said:
Having read this thread from start to finish there is loads of support for the TKC80 but what's the verdict for people like me who ride 98% on tarmac A&B roads all year round? Mine with 6k on the clock need replacing. Is it best to stick with the Battle Wings? Yes they twitch a bit in the wet but don't all tyres?
Click to expand...


Go with Michelin Anakee! Type1 front tyre, 2nd generation Rear.
 
Blobby said:
Having read this thread from start to finish there is loads of support for the TKC80 but what's the verdict for people like me who ride 98% on tarmac A&B roads all year round? Mine with 6k on the clock need replacing. Is it best to stick with the Battle Wings? Yes they twitch a bit in the wet but don't all tyres?
Click to expand...

As much as I am a fan of TK's, I'd not bother with them given your riding is almost exclusively on tarmac.

To be honest, they're a lot more stable than the Battlewings in the wet. I couldn't wait to get rid of my Battlewings...didn't trust them.
But, TK's can make the front end feel vague around 90/100mph and you'll probably not get the same life out of the TK's compared to more road orientated tyres.
 
I've got Heidenau K60's on mine now, and so far so good. Only done 70 or so dry miles, but am impressed. There's a slight wiggle at absolutel crawling speed, as the tyre 'rocks' between the blocks, but above 5mph you don't notice it.

They'll have about 3000 miles on by the time I get back from Morocco in late October, so I'll update y'all then.
 
Conti Trail Attacks

Blobby said:
Thanks for suggestions re best tyre for 98% road use. I am tempted by the Conti Trail Attack. Reviews are brilliant and sizes that fit. They are tubeless so will check with Conti re fitting tubes. Lots of praise here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279736

Come top in a test here (on 1200GS): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=10058128

Just have to accept that they look a bit lightweight but grip is more important.
Click to expand...

Loving mine :JB probably the best tyre I've had on the bike so far wet and dry. Yet to try on loose surfaces though
 
Dave Ett said:
I've got Heidenau K60's on mine now, and so far so good. Only done 70 or so dry miles, but am impressed. There's a slight wiggle at absolutel crawling speed, as the tyre 'rocks' between the blocks, but above 5mph you don't notice it.

They'll have about 3000 miles on by the time I get back from Morocco in late October, so I'll update y'all then.
Click to expand...

Hey Dave

where did you get your set from and how much if you don't mind, i am thinking about installing these to my machine when my B-Wings run dry in the next 1000 miles?

Thanks
 
TKC 80's

I just got a new F800GS and looking to change to TKC 80 for green laneing.

What's the general consenses running tubeless or tubed?

and where's the best(cheapest) place to get them?
 
Quite a few references to TK's on here. Best thing is to use the search facility, it will probably answer most of your queries straight away. If not, let us know.:thumb2

ps TK's are tubed.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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