1100 stuttery running

MarkShelley

MarkShelley

Very similar to Paolo Maldini
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My 1100 had started to get a bit annoying in traffic with it seemingly `missing` at low revs. It appeared to be fine at higher revs. It was most obvious on a constant, or slowly opening throttle below 3000rpm. I though it would be solved by doing the valves and throttle bodies. I did them at the weekend but have been for a long run today and it is still the same. When balancing the throttle boddies with my Morgan Carbtune it was clear that the problem was with the right hand cylinder as when it stuttered the plunger thingy to the right cylinder fluctuated wildly, befor returning to normal. I also changed the plugs, so it can`t be them either.
Any ideas chaps?
 
Well I have a similar problem with my bike.
I recently changed a tank over, and the bike stutters at about 2500 revs like a short hesitation, its then ok until it gets to about 5500 6000 rpm when it does it again which makes motorway riding a pain, its fine on a constant throttle but a real pain when it comes to overtaking, now as soon as I switch back to my other tank its fine, so I am sure that it is something wrong with the the tank plumbing in some way but by heck its a pain in the arse trying to fine out what, I am going to change the fuel filter and have a go at the week end.
 
1100's are a bit more of a prob than the later ones for this mainly due to 2 or 3 general areas....

The Motronic is an earlier version and doesn't "feel" as tight on the low throttle openings or when going closed to slightly open.

The earlier 11's has the 1 long throttle cable which can have greater probs with accurate setting up especially if you don't adjust in the correct order.

The 11's are the oldest of the oilheads and can have some varied settings on important bits like the TPS or CO pot. Also the TB's can get mucky with carbon deposits and generally be less "loose" to operate.

Two bits to start are if you say how old and how many miles? I have had 3 11GS's and they have all been a bit "kangaroo" at times and my latest was the worst until recently. I have ridden quite a few 11's and know that they can be really smooth if accurately set up. Many dealers do not want to do the work to refine it to this extent and will just stick to the service requirements.

I have recently set mine up really well and this just took a bit of thought and some deep cleaning and re-setting up. i started with all the usual stuff of valve clearances, end float, etc and then took the TB's off for a serious clean inside and out (don't mess with your thrittle stop screws). This and some accurate setting up afterwards with re-check to refine has really done the trick so resorting to ripping your bike apart to look for some electrical gremlin may not be the answer:D

11/1150 fuel injection isn't really that technical so it's hard to completely bugger up:D

Interesting one for Bowser though... fuel pump gremlin or pipe/filter prob?
 
MarkShelley said:
My bike is a 97 with just under 80K
Click to expand...

You will have a CO pot (all UK 11's did), and you should have a three piece throttle cable. You are just about run in at that mileage:D and you could have a good look at the shite that may be in your TB's. The spindles may have worn on the butterflies and you may have cracks or air possibly leaking in around the rubber manifolds or cracked balance pipe blanking rubbers.

It's all simple stuff and worth a check through and with a good set of gauges and a bit of patience you will make a difference. Also check the splitter for you cables for wear as some of the pics on here show they can go to shite too.

None of the above is a show stopper but it will effect smooth running espec at low revs. I fitted cheap Autolite plugs as none of the others made a shred of difference for me:thumb

Also obviously there are the valve clearances etc too not to do with the TB's.
 
Measure the resistance across both HT leads and see how they compare with against each other.
 
Steptoe said:
Measure the resistance across both HT leads and see how they compare with against each other.
Click to expand...

I will try and work out how to do that at the weekend:augie I have a mulitimeter, but haven`t got a clue how to use it!! I hate electrics, give me nuts and bolts any day.
Is this specifically to check the cables themselves, or to show up a possible problem elsewhere?
 
MarkShelley said:
I will try and work out how to do that at the weekend:augie I have a mulitimeter, but haven`t got a clue how to use it!! I hate electrics, give me nuts and bolts any day.
Is this specifically to check the cables themselves, or to show up a possible problem elsewhere?
Click to expand...

am alternative is (perhaps) to swap them over and see if the problem moves too.
 
resistance (is useless)

Put the meter on the ohms range, so when you push the button the needle deflects. I am not familier with 1100s but you need to access both ends of the lead, pull it off the plug and the other end from the whatever. put one meter lead on each end of the HT lead, take a note of where the needle stops, then repeat on the other lead. Then compare the difference the reading should be almost the same, if a problem existists there will be a different reading between leads,
not a very slight difference but quite a bit that will be the prob. Just put the results on here (the reading on the meter will be in ohms) and someone like Neil will tell you what to do next.
Write down both the readings don't just "remember them" good luck.
Dave GS
 
I had a dodgy coil on the present 11 which killed a cylinder completely but have not had probs with the leads. I didn't mention it or HT's before as if you are having randon momentary drop outs on one cyl then it is similar to mine.

Trouble is even though it is only momentary, it can cause probs in slow riding especially when in tight turns:augie Some do, some don't for the 11's it seems...

If you do need any bits like leads or coils etc then M/works were always good at sending used bits and crediting what you didn't need on return.
 
Right, I checked the resistance on the HT leads and am pretty sure I did it correctly. The readings were 6.14 on the left hand side and 5.86 on the right. Presumably these are close enough to assume there is no problem with them?
I also put some different plugs in to to make sure it isn`t a dodgy plug. It was still playing up on a test run once warm. It is always fine when first run, but gets progressively worse as it warms up. I never get the feeling it will die completely, but it is so annoying through villages and traffic.:mad:
 
Mine was the same so as above re cleaning... Easy check is to remove one of the Brass Bypass screws. If you screw it in to the stop 1st and count the 1/2 turns so you know where you started... and then check the tip and the seat area for carbony crap. It will give you and idea of how shitty your TB's are but the only way is to check fully is to remove and have a look.

Also check the rubber bits for cracks around the TB's.

As long as you can set the balance again with some gauges and have some mechanical aptitude then a TB service should be fine. Just know what settings you started with for a ball park setting.
 
Wrigsby1 said:
Mine was the same so as above re cleaning... Easy check is to remove one of the Brass Bypass screws. If you screw it in to the stop 1st and count the 1/2 turns so you know where you started... and then check the tip and the seat area for carbony crap. It will give you and idea of how shitty your TB's are but the only way is to check fully is to remove and have a look.

Also check the rubber bits for cracks around the TB's.

As long as you can set the balance again with some gauges and have some mechanical aptitude then a TB service should be fine. Just know what settings you started with for a ball park setting.
Click to expand...

OK, I will take a look at the right hand TB next. I will leave the left side until I have resolved this issue to keep things constant.
 
MarkShelley said:
Just read the entire thread. The symptoms sound identical but there does not seem to be a resolution.
Click to expand...

Thats my bike that is... and it's currently in my garage after finally breaking down and refusing to start - the spark is dead. I DO think however that I MAY have found this particular problem at least - I'll let you know at the weekend when I've had a chance to do what I HOPE needs to be done.

The final solution to my original problem I'm almost sure was the ECU, but having said that, towards the end of a very long road trip earlier this year it did stutter again occasionally, just enough to get my nerves on edge:augie

Anyway - I wish you luck finding your gremlin. I'm convinced my bike is possessed personally.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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