1150 ABS question

[gingerbeemer08]

Right, going back to an 1150 after a long time of having other bikes.
The one i'm looking at is a 2003 model with the servo ABS fitted (high pitched mild squeal when you squeeze the brakes when stationary?) and tbh, I've completely forgotten all the do's, dont's and dont worry's about this ABS system.
I know I had it fitted to a previous 1150 I owned and it was faultless.
Anything I need to check or do before purchase/ usage?
Ta

 

[Kitsilano]

This may help....

Wanting a 1150 but worried about ABS issues - enlighten me please

Hi again. So I am narrowing my search to an 1150 but I keep seeing bikes being advertised with ABS disconnect/bypassed I'd not ride a bike without ABS so I am wondering if someone could enlighten me regarding what models to avoid/what is the issue/cost of putting it right Thanks

www.ukgser.com

 

[AdrianS]

You are looking at a 20+ year old bike. Has the ABS system been serviced regularly? Is it working ok at the moment with no flashing warning lights. If so, keep it and hope it works if you ever need it. Remove the ABS unit if you want to and the bike will be perfectly safe to use.

 

[Johny w]

I have the same bike and it's nearly had me off a few times with faulty ABS......I've only had it a few months and I'm really pissed off with it now.
It was sporadic so you didn't know when you would get residual braking.....so I replaced the lines with spiegler lines and bled the whole system to the book.
It didn't work so I bled again and still no joy. I have the warning light and fast flashing abs light.... if I pull the brake lever there's nothing. If I press the rear brake the servo works and stayes on, then the front brake works, with the abs motors wizzing and not going off but if I drive the bike a tiny touch on the brake has you nearly over the bars and the braking force is so much its uncontrollable..... now the bike is sitting in my garage. Waiting for me to get my head around which way to delete the ABS. Connecting the brakes back to standard brakes seems simple enough, and the flashing abs is easily taken care of by removing the relay......but I'm not sure what else I'll have to do on my model. It's r1150gs 2003... will I lose the rear rear light? .... If so, can this be sorted by changing the wiring in the brains, or is it a both brake switches replacement.
Will I lose anything else?
Is it easy to remove the warning bulb? .....or indeed, is there any way to retain the feature of a warning lamp for rear light failure?
I would be very grateful of good advice from someone who has the same model.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

https://www.ukgser.com/community/threads/►►►-850-1100-1150-oilhead-info-tips.192649/

Have a read here. Under Brakes. It’s all been documented before.

The simplest and cheapest option is to disconnect the electronic unit from the servo pump and leave it connected to the bike. This will save you having to rewire the brake lever micro switches and retain the warning for the brake and tail lights.

Removing the pump unit and replumming the brake lines is straight forward.

 

[Johny w]

https://www.ukgser.com/community/threads/►►►-850-1100-1150-oilhead-info-tips.192649/

Have a read here. Under Brakes. It’s all been documented before.

The simplest and cheapest option is to disconnect the electronic unit from the servo pump and leave it connected to the bike. This will save you having to rewire the brake lever micro switches and retain the warning for the brake and tail lights.

Removing the pump unit and replumming the brake lines

 

[Johny w]

Really!! .....It's that simple? so I buy or make a loop for the front lines, refit the rear line. Remove the pump unit including lines.
And retain the ecu off the pump and make a plate to seal it. And I'll still have working rear light and brake light.....and warning light incase of brake light failure? So there's no switch swapping.....no soldering?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

That’s about it. You need to remove the blue relay in the fuse box to stop the ABS warning light flashing or remove the ABS bulb.

The Triangular warning lamp will illuminate if you have a brake or tail light failure.

You can remove the front ABS sensor and wiring if you want.
The rear ABS sensor is best left in place as it seals the final drive unit. Some people cut the wiring, leaving the plastic sensor in place. Your choice.

 

[Johny w]

That’s about it. You need to remove the blue relay in the fuse box to stop the ABS warning light flashing or remove the ABS bulb.

The Triangular warning lamp will illuminate if you have a brake or tail light failure.

You can remove the front ABS sensor and wiring if you want.
The rear ABS sensor is best left in place as it seals the final drive unit. Some people cut the wiring, leaving the plastic sensor in place. Your choice.

I can't believe it! .....I've been over complicating things by watching too many you tube videos.....thanks very much for that.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

When you undo the 4 security screws to free the electronic unit from the pump unit you will be confronted with 6 cables to disconnect. The 2 ribbon cables are easy to disconnect, they stay with the pump unit.

The 4 others high current cables are likely to be tight to disconnect, you’ll need to apply some force.

 

[Johny w]

I've got conflicting information, there's a guy called normski on you tube done the same model of bike, and he has had to change both brake switches......so this is where I'm getting confused!!

 

[theoneandonly]

i think you will find if you remove the ecu , then you have to do the switches .
make sure your brake switches are working before starting .
it really is quite easy .
i used a plate of alli , cut to shape and screwed onto the ecu , sealed with silicone , left for a day to cure , and then zip-tied to roughly where it came from.

this ^^^^^ guy does the wiring bit

this is how i did mine . @ 10.41 there is a shot of a neat brake line joiner , with a bleed nipple

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/brake-line-splitter-bra50965-1.html
and here it is. ^^^^^

 

[Ian J Hartley]

The brake switches on the Servo Bikes are normally closed, and the operation of the levers opens the switch. It’s a design feature of the system as the brake electronic module monitors the brake and tail light current.

You would need to replace the micro switches to normally open. Closed with the operation of the levers. Then you would also need to do some significant rewiring of the ABS wiring loom in order to get the brake and tail lights to function. Then of course you will loose the brake light failure warning when either filament of the brake tail light fails, you get the warning triangle, but more importantly, the Brake module modulates the remaining filament in the bulb to be both tail light and brake light.

Hence why keeping the brake electronic module is the simplest method of removing the Servo ABS system.

 

[sproggy]

Motorworks sell a neat cover for the servo ECU which I used in preference to making my own - makes the job even easier and quicker:

ABS ECU cover

For ABS removal

www.motorworks.co.uk

You might also consider replacing the brake lines if yours are the original rubber ones.

 

[Johny w]

i think you will find if you remove the ecu , then you have to do the switches .
make sure your brake switches are working before starting .
it really is quite easy .
i used a plate of alli , cut to shape and screwed onto the ecu , sealed with silicone , left for a day to cure , and then zip-tied to roughly where it came from.

this ^^^^^ guy does the wiring bit

this is how i did mine . @ 10.41 there is a shot of a neat brake line joiner , with a bleed nipple

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/brake-line-splitter-bra50965-1.html
and here it is. ^^^^^

All done, overjoyed.....thankyou

 

[Johny w]

https://www.ukgser.com/community/threads/►►►-850-1100-1150-oilhead-info-tips.192649/

Have a read here. Under Brakes. It’s all been documented before.

The simplest and cheapest option is to disconnect the electronic unit from the servo pump and leave it connected to the bike. This will save you having to rewire the brake lever micro switches and retain the warning for the brake and tail lights.

Removing the pump unit and replumming the brake lines is straight forward.

All done now, the hardest part was removing the tiny bulb for the warning light......I took the whole headlight assembly off to get to it. The rubber grommet that holds it in was very stubborn.
Thanks for your advice

 

[Johny w]

https://www.ukgser.com/community/threads/►►►-850-1100-1150-oilhead-info-tips.192649/

Have a read here. Under Brakes. It’s all been documented before.

The simplest and cheapest option is to disconnect the electronic unit from the servo pump and leave it connected to the bike. This will save you having to rewire the brake lever micro switches and retain the warning for the brake and tail lights.

Removing the pump unit and replumming the brake lines is straight forward.

All done now, the hardest part was removing the tiny bulb for the warning light......I took the whole headlight assembly off to get to it. The rubber grommet that holds it in was very stubborn.
Thanks for your advice

Motorworks sell a neat cover for the servo ECU which I used in preference to making my own - makes the job even easier and quicker:

ABS ECU cover

For ABS removal

www.motorworks.co.uk

You might also consider replacing the brake lines if yours are the original rubber ones.

Yes I've ordered that part, makes it a neat job and very watertight I imagine.
Looks like it's 3d printed.
Expensive at £38 with delivery, but that's all the job has cost me.

 

[Johny w]

Motorworks sell a neat cover for the servo ECU which I used in preference to making my own - makes the job even easier and quicker:

ABS ECU cover

For ABS removal

www.motorworks.co.uk

You might also consider replacing the brake lines if yours are the original rubber ones.

Yes I've already replaced the lines with spiegler ones......very pleased with them, and you can apply force and twist the banjo, which came in very handy.

 

[Steptoe]

All done now, the hardest part was removing the tiny bulb for the warning light......I took the whole headlight assembly off to get to it. The rubber grommet that holds it in was very stubborn.
Thanks for your advice

you only need remove the lower bulb. No need to remove anything, just put your hand up under the instrument panel and pull the rubber bulb holder out, remove bulb and push rubber bulb holder back in place

 

[Johny w]

you only need remove the lower bulb. No need to remove anything, just put your hand up under the instrument panel and pull the rubber bulb holder out, remove bulb and push rubber bulb holder back in place

Couldn't it was in very very tight, and I was worried I'd rip the wires! .....anyway I learned something.