1150 clutch slave kaput!

[Motivlack]

I see this is a common problem doing a search on here guys. Last week the GS was hard to change gear, lever right back into the bar, stiff gear change etc. Went to check fluid and it was black!.. Bled the system, new fluid, ok for 200 odd miles then it came back worse.. I got the bike up on the bench and changed fluid again thinking I might have trapped air in it. Got the clutch working ok. I then proceeded to check the gearbox oil while I had it up on the bench. When I opened the filler plug for the gear oil I lost all pressure in the clutch and all fluid in the master. Obviously the seal behind the slave has gone and the gear oil and clutch fluid is mixing!... I also noticed fluid pissing out of the bell housing/clutch plate area behind the starter so it must have travelled along the rod and out here too!!.. Anyways I'm going to pull this apart during the week so any words of wisdom greatly appreciated guys.

I also noticed that the engine oil level dropped significantly also. I hope this is just my imagination or the level of the bike on the bench..This would have nothing to do with it ?? Thanks..

 

[fatnfast]

If its not fitted already, get a stainless clutch hose. You will also need 4 of the smaller crush washers where the hoses mount to the (new) slave cylinder and a new gasket. Once the slave is removed you will see a seal at the back of the gearbox and this has obviously failed so a new one will be needed.
All this can be done with the rear wheel and rear shock removed.
As the oil/brake fluid has travelled down the pushrod you may be looking at a clutch change, obviously a bigger job, but some good info on here.
Checking the engine oil is somewhat of an art. After a run I leave the bike on its sidestand for 10 mins, then up on the mainstand to check the level.

 

[Motivlack]

If its not fitted already, get a stainless clutch hose. You will also need 4 of the smaller crush washers where the hoses mount to the (new) slave cylinder and a new gasket. Once the slave is removed you will see a seal at the back of the gearbox and this has obviously failed so a new one will be needed.
All this can be done with the rear wheel and rear shock removed.
As the oil/brake fluid has travelled down the pushrod you may be looking at a clutch change, obviously a bigger job, but some good info on here.
Checking the engine oil is somewhat of an art. After a run I leave the bike on its sidestand for 10 mins, then up on the mainstand to check the level.

Thanks for that! I got the slave out and the hose was rotten so I'll order a stainless one.


The bearing in the slave was falling out!


Can you tell me(or anyone) what's the best way to remove the seal?? Should I pull of the gearbox just to have a look at the cluch plates? I'm thinking brake cleaner sprayed into the clutch from the starter motor cavity would do the job, or?

 

[NeilDD]

Measure the depth the seal is pushed in, thats the most important thing!

Drill two small holes in the face of the seal, insert a couple of self tappers and gently pull.

If you're putting a new seal in, get the felt seal that goes on the push rod as well.

If Motorworks have no stock of the ADV s/s hose try pro brake in Germany, they can get one to you in about 48 hours if needed.

HTH
Neil

PS
Sherlock's did have some slave cylinders in stock a while back (not cheap)

 

[MIKE R]

During a service a couple of years ago, it was pointed out that my clutch lines were rotting at the gearbox end by Jono at Adventure Bike Warehouse. At that time the clutch bleeder pipe was on backorder, so after waiting for about 3 months I contacted a firm called ProBrake in Germany. They had the lever to gearbox stainless line in stock, but had to make a clutch bleeder pipe using an original as a template. The only difference in the clutch bleeder is that it utilises a 'normal' bleed nipple rather than the unique BMW one. I believe thay now have this part as part of their stock, and a LOT cheaper than BMW

More details here:-

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274300

I hope this helps.

Mike

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Bit of paint peel too

 

[Motivlack]

Measure the depth the seal is pushed in, thats the most important thing!

Drill two small holes in the face of the seal, insert a couple of self tappers and gently pull.

If you're putting a new seal in, get the felt seal that goes on the push rod as well.

If Motorworks have no stock of the ADV s/s hose try pro brake in Germany, they can get one to you in about 48 hours if needed.

HTH
Neil

PS
Sherlock's did have some slave cylinders in stock a while back (not cheap)

Great, Thanks! Is this the hose?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stahlflex-Ku...ftradteile&hash=item19c9ef432d#ht_2604wt_1065

I see a few second hand slave cylinders on ebay.de also. I know its second hand but should be fine? Slave on mine has lasted 67,000 miles...2000 model.

Should I take gear box off? Any need?

 

[Motivlack]

Bit of paint peel too

I know, its annoying. As far as I know the bike was originally from UK and I guess the salt you guys have over there took its toll. It hasn't gotten worse in the 5 years I've had the bike though(I use copious amounts of wd40). Poor finish from BMW though or poor metal grade.

 

[The Grey One]

Thanks for that! I got the slave out and the hose was rotten so I'll order a stainless one.


The bearing in the slave was falling out!


Can you tell me(or anyone) what's the best way to remove the seal?? Should I pull of the gearbox just to have a look at the cluch plates? I'm thinking brake cleaner sprayed into the clutch from the starter motor cavity would do the job, or?

If oil has got on the clutch no amount of brake cleaner will help. It soaks in to the friction material so you can only get a bit off the surface and once that is worn the problem recurs. I made my own seal puller from a piece of bar, just needs to be shaped to get under the edge and pull. As has been said, measure the depth of the seal first and fit the new one to the same measurement.

John

 

[Steptoe]

When I opened the filler plug for the gear oil I lost all pressure in the clutch and all fluid in the master. Obviously the seal behind the slave has gone and the gear oil and clutch fluid is mixing!... ..

I can't understand why removing the filler plug caused a loss of pressure in the slave cylinder ???
It doesn't make any sense as there is no pressure in the gearbox due to a (big) breather on top of the gearbox.

 

[Motivlack]

I can't understand why removing the filler plug caused a loss of pressure in the slave cylinder ???
It doesn't make any sense as there is no pressure in the gearbox due to a (big) breather on top of the gearbox.

Yes that's true..The slave cylinder just seemed to dump all the fluid the second I opened the gearbox filler.. just coincidence..

 

[fatnfast]

I used a couple of modified coathangers shaped into L-shaped pullers, a blunt and rounded screwdriver and a little pick to get the seal out. If the seal starts to come apart, be careful that bits dont drop back into the box, esp. the little circular spring that holds the seal lip to the shaft. Its a bit of a fiddly job if the gearbox is in situ, but do-able.
If the box is out, the two self tappers would be a good idea, but be aware that right behind the seal is a bearing that you dont want to damage.
The new seal I ordered had changed from black to brown rubber, so maybe its an upgraded viton part?
The pushrod should pull out to reveal the felt bush. It takes a bit of a wiggle to get it to shift.
As already mentioned, measure the depth of the seal as there is no shoulder for it to seat on.
I dont use my 1150 for ploughing through rivers etc, so I cut a small piece of the new gasket out at the bottom to make a 'weep hole'. Hopefully any further seal or slave problems will show itself as a few drops or misting coming from here in the future:

I have never changed a 1150 clutch, and hopefully some one will correct me if Im wrong, but I assume the pushrod acts on a spring plate which is infront of the friction plate. If your slave/gearbox leak has only just let go, then maybe it is possible that fluid/oil has not yet reached the friction plate especially if you havent run the engine since that happened? Starter off, have a peek and spray with brake cleaner? If it starts slipping, then nothing lost anyway.
Good luck.

 

[Motivlack]

I used a couple of modified coathangers shaped into L-shaped pullers, a blunt and rounded screwdriver and a little pick to get the seal out. If the seal starts to come apart, be careful that bits dont drop back into the box, esp. the little circular spring that holds the seal lip to the shaft. Its a bit of a fiddly job if the gearbox is in situ, but do-able.
If the box is out, the two self tappers would be a good idea, but be aware that right behind the seal is a bearing that you dont want to damage.
The new seal I ordered had changed from black to brown rubber, so maybe its an upgraded viton part?
The pushrod should pull out to reveal the felt bush. It takes a bit of a wiggle to get it to shift.
As already mentioned, measure the depth of the seal as there is no shoulder for it to seat on.
I dont use my 1150 for ploughing through rivers etc, so I cut a small piece of the new gasket out at the bottom to make a 'weep hole'. Hopefully any further seal or slave problems will show itself as a few drops or misting coming from here in the future:

I have never changed a 1150 clutch, and hopefully some one will correct me if Im wrong, but I assume the pushrod acts on a spring plate which is infront of the friction plate. If your slave/gearbox leak has only just let go, then maybe it is possible that fluid/oil has not yet reached the friction plate especially if you havent run the engine since that happened? Starter off, have a peek and spray with brake cleaner? If it starts slipping, then nothing lost anyway.
Good luck.

Thanks!