1150 GS Bevel box Output Bearing failure

[Monkey Man]

Hi All,


On my run home from work today my bevel box output bearing had a complete failure and also decided to empty all the gear oil onto the rear wheel..
My question is how easy is it to remove whats left of the old one and fit a new one?
My other question is should i get the input bearing done at the same time?

The funny thing is their was no warning for this happening eg play on the rear wheel as it had a MOT only done last week.
I just spoke to a BMW dealer and they told me i would need a brand new bevel unit!



cheers

 

[chad]

steptoe is going to be the man for this , do a search on it and check out his posts you will find all the info you need

 

[Welshman]

Mine gave good warning oil spots on the rim etc, it is really a question of how bad the failure is....

Right tools a couple of hours work, and well documented elsewhere... not much worse than changing a chain and sprockets on some bikes ...

 

[Monkey Man]

Yeah, now i have searched a little deeper and it seems i need the newer 17 ball bearing type for the output..
I have no means to remove the bearing, so im gonna go to a motor engineer down the road to get it out safely without any damage.
It seems to me fitting the new one just requires the bearing to be heated up in the oven and then it should drop right in, then rebuild in reverse to how it was all removed?
Anyone know roughly the temp and period it needs to be before fitting, i dont want to damage the new one!
I was gonna pick one up from Motorworks, has anybody bought one from them?

Thanks.

 

[Rick 1600]

Mine went at about 25,000 miles, but not a complte failure. I replaced the bearing and the seal in about an hour and a half and im not a machanic. Beaing was about £55 and the seal £10 from Motorworks. Check on here for Steptoe's post.

 

[Colban]

I just spoke to a BMW dealer and they told me i would need a brand new bevel unit! cheers

Name 'n shame the dealer who told you that.
Common problem,reasonably easy to fix at home with some heat and a big puller.
Bearing cost about £35 (from BWM) seal (£10) plus oil (GL5 spec).
Take a look here for procedure...
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ORDBBR 1.0.pdf

 

[Monkey Man]

Thanks for the info/link.

 

[Fanum]

Name 'n shame the dealer who told you that.
Common problem,reasonably easy to fix at home with some heat and a big puller.
Bearing cost about £35 (from BWM) seal (£10) plus oil (GL5 spec).
Take a look here for procedure...
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ORDBBR 1.0.pdf

Puller?? Tyre levers and a Coleman stove

Monkeyman....have a good look at the big 'O' ring as well........usually you can get away without replacing it but I had one got squished and we had to bodge it by wrapping PTFE tape around it ......for the sake of the 80p or whatever it costs, it may be worth replacing anyway
PS when the new one goes blue under your heat source, it's overheated and will be stiff and fail....DAMHIK

 

[ciderman gs]

you should not have to worry about the shimming you just need to make sure the bearing is sitting fully down on the crownwheel put the crown wheel in the frezzer for 1hr and heat the bearing up gently for 5mins with a heat gun then drop the bearing onto the crown wheel if you have to persaude it to sit down then only tap the inner race of the bearing NOT THE OUTER RACE as this will feck the big spinney thing

ps the dealer is not at fault because they think the drive has to re-shimmed and they class it as uneconomical repair or a can't be arsed repair but if they read their manual it states that it only needs re-shimming in extreme cases as in if the gear set is changed this is because the gear set is shimmed to the machining of the bevel drive case