1150 washed and will not start

[wildbeeste]

OK I should just ride it and not do anything silly like bringing dangerous chemicals such as H2O near a delicate GS

I rode it eighty miles on Friday to get some new tyres fitted
On Saturday after washing it it failed to start.
No I did not use a jet wash just a garden hose
I have checked the sparks on both sides - nice and fat. Just to be sure it now has new spark plugs. So do not think it could be Hall sensor.
Fuel comes out of the injectors on both sides
The RID displays fuel and gears and time
The battery is fully charged
The fuel pump primes upon switch on
The side stand switch is fine - cleaned it just to be certain ( that little circlip is a bugger to replace)
Ignition switch loom is now new (That little silver screw is impossible to get out)
Fuel pressure appears to be ok. (I tried Steptoe's lightly clamp the return hose to the tank and it still would not start)
All cables sited properly including that one that everyone likes to show photos of.
Reset the motronic via fuse 5 twice now
All other fuses fine
I am now stumped. I do not have a GS-911
Any ideas please apart from a bus pass

 

[Johnwhit]

if its getting spark + fuel it should start,
sounds like water & not fuel getting into the pots.

you need to buy the touratwat umbrella

I'd start with checking the fuel for water

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Unplug all the coil caps and make sure they are dry, what seems like a nice fat spark might not be enough to fire it up. My 1100 stood outside at a weird angle one year with the wind howling during the night and side ways rain. Coils got wet and would not start the next morning.

Ohh and make sure your kill switch is not on

 

[wildbeeste]

if its getting spark + fuel it should start,
sounds like water & not fuel getting into the pots.

you need to buy the touratwat umbrella

I'd start with checking the fuel for water

I really hope not as it would be difficult to take the bike out in our climate.
But I will try some fresh fuel tomorrow

 

[wildbeeste]

Unplug all the coil caps and make sure they are dry, what seems like a nice fat spark might not be enough to fire it up. My 1100 stood outside at a weird angle one year with the wind howling during the night and side ways rain. Coils got wet and would not start the next morning.

Ohh and make sure your kill switch is not on

OK Will check the caps and see if there is a second kill switch somewhere

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

i expect the force of the water has moved the valve timing.

corrosion is terrible on these - the pistons will stick to the cylinders just like that

 

[wildbeeste]

i expect the force of the water has moved the valve timing.

corrosion is terrible on these - the pistons will stick to the cylinders just like that

It is this sort of expertise that makes contributing to this site so worthwhile

 

[davegs]

Lesson for today.

DO NOT CLEAN YOUR BIKE!!!!!

 

[The Sea Dog]

bypass the sidestand switch and try it.

 

[wildbeeste]

bypass the sidestand switch and try it.

Thanks for the suggestion but I have tried starting it with the clutch lever pulled in - that should effectively bypass the sidestand switch if faulty or if the engine thinks it is in gear (despite neutral light being on)

I do not want to go cutting wires if I can avoid it. The solutions I have seen as regards bypassing are either scarily complicated (need a degree in electricals) or crude (twist two wires together and tape up)

I am charging the battery up again as turning over is getting laboured now

 

[The Sea Dog]

Thanks for the suggestion but I have tried starting it with the clutch lever pulled in - that should effectively bypass the sidestand switch if faulty or if the engine thinks it is in gear (despite neutral light being on)

I do not want to go cutting wires if I can avoid it. The solutions I have seen as regards bypassing are either scarily complicated (need a degree in electricals) or crude (twist two wires together and tape up)

I am charging the battery up again as turning over is getting laboured now

You don't have to chop anything just temporarily short the white and brown wires together,or you could disconnect the switch where it joins the harness under the tank ( r/hand side of frame I think from memory) and short the plug connectors there

 

[Steptoe]

bypass the sidestand switch and try it.

If the fuel pump primes when you turn the ignition on the side stand switch is ok.

I have checked the sparks on both sides - nice and fat. Just to be sure it now has new spark plugs. So do not think it could be Hall sensor.
Fuel comes out of the injectors on both sides
:

Just because you have a spark and fuel doesn't mean it's not the hall sensors causing your problem. I've had a couple of bikes with the same problem and it turned out to be the hall sensor.

 

[The Sea Dog]

If the fuel pump primes when you turn the ignition on the side stand switch is ok.

sorry missed that in his original desc, should of gone to spec savers I guess

 

[wildbeeste]

Just because you have a spark and fuel doesn't mean it's not the hall sensors causing your problem. I've had a couple of bikes with the same problem and it turned out to be the hall sensor.

OK it seems it may well be the hall sensors or the wiring to them

I just tried this frm link, post 12
Here's a secret- don't tell anyone.

Turn on the ignition, listen to the fuel pump fire up then stop.

keep the ignition turned on, put the bike into gear.

Turn the rear wheel around very slowly.

Listen for the fuel pump to fire up again at some point while rotating the wheel.

If it doesn't fire up, the senders fecked. - Who needs a £25K diagnostic unit

Now bugger off, i'm giving all my hard earned secrets away .

Fuel pump did not fire up as rear wheel turned
So I assume that I may have a duff sensor
I know I will not be able identify which sensor is duff without looking but does the fuel pump fire when the rear wheel is turned and in gear once or twice for every revolution of the crank. If it is supposed to fire twice then I think I can concentrate on the wiring initially.

 

[The Sea Dog]

now there's a handy little piece of info to keep in yer noggin, duly filed for the day it's needed, thanks for that little gem Neil.

 

[Steptoe]

now there's a handy little piece of info to keep in yer noggin, duly filed for the day it's needed, thanks for that little gem Neil.

That advice is not as black and white as it seems.

If the fuel pump doesn't prime while turning the rear wheel it's 90% that it is the hall sensors ( so long as the fuel pump primes when turning on the ignition).

But just because it does prime while rotating the wheel doesn't mean the hall sensors are ok.


Got it

 

[The Sea Dog]

That advice is not as black and white as it seems.

If the fuel pump doesn't prime while turning the rear wheel it's 90% that it is the hall sensors ( so long as the fuel pump primes when turning on the ignition).

But just because it does prime while rotating the wheel doesn't mean the hall sensors are ok.


Got it

okay ! at least it's another thing to check to aid diagnosis, I think, maybe...

 

[Steptoe]

okay ! at least it's another thing to check to aid diagnosis, I think, maybe...

The new beta firmware on the GS911 diagnostic unit has a test for the hall sensors. Makes life easier

 

[kwallace21]

Bugger that. I'm never washing mine again. Maybe a wipedown with a damp hankie but no more!

 

[wildbeeste]

The new beta firmware on the GS911 diagnostic unit has a test for the hall sensors. Makes life easier

Has anyone in the Brighton/Sussex area got a GS911 that they want to test out on my bike or want to sell to me?
I imagine that using it in anger on someone else's bike would be a useful exercise even if it is just to see if the damn thing works
I am willing to let my bike be the guinea pig so to speak.
It would also save me having to spend £150 on a hall sensor and a few hours fitting it to find out that it was not that after all
Beers would be provided to help with the standing around in my garage