1150gs LCD display stopped working

theschoning

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Today the LCD stopped working, including fuel gauge, oil temperature & gear indicator. The clock is still working.

Any idea what may have caused this? I have checked fuses under the seat - all look ok - and have briefly tried wiggling the main cable look going into the instrument cluster.

Thanks for your help,

Jonathan
 
Bet you've got hids.

Remove and replace fuse 3 to reset the RID
 
HIDs - yes, I do....but for many years now and never had a problem? What do they do to the RID? Will try fuse 3 tomorrow morning.

Cheers,

J
 
HIDs - yes, I do....but for many years now and never had a problem? What do they do to the RID? Will try fuse 3 tomorrow morning.

Cheers,

J

Stray emf and rf from the HID ballasts (especially cheap Chinese ones that aren't well designed / shielded) can randomly interfere with the RID.
 
HIDs - yes, I do....but for many years now and never had a problem? What do they do to the RID? Will try fuse 3 tomorrow morning.

Cheers,

J
Sometimes if the bike doesn't start first turn there's some interference from the HIDs that buggers up the RID.

Easily reset.
 
bumping this thread as my display stopped working today (2 days before going on trip to Norway).
Removing and replacing the fuse #3 did the trick :)
 
Had the same issue and replacing fuse #3 fix it for me as well... The strange thing is that the fuse does look perfectly normal.
 
Had the same issue and replacing fuse #3 fix it for me as well... The strange thing is that the fuse does look perfectly normal.

I'd imagine that it's not the 'new' fuse which made the difference but the act of removing and replacing it which de-powers and resets the RID...
 
I think it was the fuse as I pulled out the original one and put it back on with no result, then I fit a new one and started working again.. Go figure!
 
I'm jealous! I've literally taken everything apart and cleaned all the connections but the PCB on my RID was coated with a thick layer of corrosion and is now 'non serviceable'.:(

My fuse 3 is also connected via a Datatool so all hell breaks loose when it's removed unfortunately.
 
anyone know a fix for this?
It seems to happen in a totally random fashion.
Sometimes turning the ignition off then on again sorts it, other times it's remove and replace the fuse....
 


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