1200RT Drive Shaft

[Mr Bean]

Thanks both.

I'll have another look but it sure appears as though the fatter section is sliding in and out by around 75mm. It's the angle of the shaft is at that is causing it to catch on the inside of the arm

I wedged a the handle of a ratchet in back of the UJ and persuaded it off with a hammer and pce of wood!

As I already have a brand new shaft with snug UJ's and don't fall under their own weight. I was hoping to guide it through on the splines without pulling the gaiter back - being lazy as the foot plates etc are in the way on the RT. If it won't go on I'll have to get at the front UJ by sliding the gaiter back.

The rear gaiter was split with a bit missing at the bottom so new one on order.

 

[1964Hall]

Can I ask what mileage that went at?

\v/ Sent from my SGS2 using Tapatalk

 

[ebbo]

The rear gaiter was split with a bit missing at the bottom so new one on order.

Perhaps that's what killed it

Don't know much about Hardy Spicers, but maybe the ones under cars have seals (the ones on me dads old Hillman had grease points )

 

[1964Hall]

My rear gaitor constantly pops off since dealer did an oil change at the 12000 service . Every time I went back I menttioned it and pop it back in. I had a similar issue with my R12ST and could only make it stay put by dropping the final drive and clipping in the plastic retaining clip properly.
My RT12 has been serviced by same dealer for 65000 miles of the 76000 now on the bike & I will be asking them to look a bit closer at the shaft & splines at the 78000 mile service.
\v/

 

[Mr Bean]

The mileage was around 44k

The image hopefully shows the parts missing and slightly split.

Have also included images of the splined section for interest.

It gave no notice of failing - it was in at the dealers a week or so before for diagnosis of another problem and they didn't note it. The diagnosis would have necessitated a long ride.

 

[Mr Bean]

Been out again to remove the shaft - no success. I cannot change the angle it's coming through at, no matter how many times I turn the shaft.

I underestimated how far it comes back before hitting the inner fold in the swing arm, it's at least 150mm.

Any ideas before I remove all to fit the new one?

 

[autogs]

what about removing rear shock bottom bolt and pulling shock out if bottom location thus alowing you to raise the swingarm and reducing the angle

 

[Mr Bean]

what about removing rear shock bottom bolt and pulling shock out if bottom location thus alowing you to raise the swingarm and reducing the angle

Hadn't thought of that, I'll give it a go.

Thanks.

 

[autogs]

ps use a hot air gun on the bolt to soften the bm loctite

 

[1964Hall]

2nd'd on the hot air gun to soften the loctite.
I've used a fan heater left pointing at the mass of the swing arm for an hr or so in the past, then used the heat gun locally around the bolt.
Hth

\v/ Sent from my SGS2 using Tapatalk

 

[Mr Bean]

Thanks for the tip.

 

[Bendy toy]

For an enclosed case that is some serious rust. Is the swing arm prone to filling up with water? If so, a 3mm hole in the bottom at the back should keep it clear.

 

[ebbo]

For an enclosed case that is some serious rust. Is the swing arm prone to filling up with water? If so, a 3mm hole in the bottom at the back should keep it clear.

Not usually, damaged rubber bellows let water in I think

 

[Spout]

I had a similar failure at that mileage.

However, the HP2 swingarm DOES have a drain hole.

It had blocked some 20,000 miles previously (noticed whilst changing oil) and I'm presuming that just 6,000 miles (max) of bearings rotating in mucky water was enough to wash the grease out.

I'd advise anyone noticing water (rust!) in there to get the UJ bearings checked out.

 

[mikeyboy]

one more reason for changing the final drive oil at every service,as i do,takes ten minutes and gives you the opertunity to have a good look/feel of the rear u/j.

 

[Mr Bean]

one more reason for changing the final drive oil at every service,as i do,takes ten minutes and gives you the opertunity to have a good look/feel of the rear u/j.

I did, but mine has a drain plug so I don't need to drop the FD.

Do you pull back the brake piston dust seals when you change the pads?

 

[mikeyboy]

I did, but mine has a drain plug so I don't need to drop the FD.

Do you pull back the brake piston dust seals when you change the pads?

gs1200 doesnt have dust seals as such,i normally pump the piston out and clean it before pushing it back ,if it does not go back nicely i strip the caliper for cleaning,i change the brake fluid on an annual service anyway so to strip the caliper is only another 1/2 hr.

 

[Mr Bean]

gs1200 doesnt have dust seals as such,i normally pump the piston out and clean it before pushing it back ,if it does not go back nicely i strip the caliper for cleaning,i change the brake fluid on an annual service anyway so to strip the caliper is only another 1/2 hr.

Fair enough.

In your opinion would/could the lock up have caused damage to the crown wheel and pinion as I'm guessing the forces required to bend the end of the UJ are significant?

 

[Spout]

In your opinion would/could the lock up have caused damage to the crown wheel and pinion as I'm guessing the forces required to bend the end of the UJ are significant?

It did with mine.

It bent it enough so that the special tools for stripping the FD wouldn't fit

Note: it did lock up at 80mph though!

 

[Mr Bean]

It did with mine.

It bent it enough so that the special tools for stripping the FD wouldn't fit

Note: it did lock up at 80mph though!

Thanks.

How the hell did you control it?

The scary thing for me was that around 30 mins earlier i was 'making progress' on the M1.

I've just looked at the repair manual and number 3 on the image is not there.

I admit to not having seen one but suspect it has something to do with sealing the gaiter to the swing arm?