A bit stop start this project but even though it might not look it I've made a lot of progress over the last few days. To be fair I have done a lot of work this summer on other bikes....
Anyway the main work has been sorting the wiring out which is just about done. I will need to tidy up the runs but I'll do this once I've got the cables installed and get it off the bench. I need to be able to move the forks around and also satisfy myself that I'm happy with the bars before I settle on cable lengths.
I am having a bit of an issue with the ignition switch. The original one pictured is the 5 pin one which was mounted in the fairing and is installed temporarily. The centre two pins appear to be both numbered 30. The switch I want fits in the centre of the plastic console as shown. I tried the usual suppliers for the correct fitting one but the best I could do was get the 4 pin one shown from
Sherlock FOC as it was part of a big order and no guarantees it would work. Well I've tried most obvious combinations of connection and I can't get the
Sherlock one to work. Two possibilities: 1. It's broken 2. Which is quite likely, I've not got the right connections made. I assumed 15->15 and 30->30 to start which seem correct from the wiring diagrams. The hidden pin number on the 4 pin switch is 58E. According to the Haynes manual this is the correct switch for my bike but my wiring colours don't match (but I am colour blind.......

).
Incidentally the wiring diagrams are one area where it seems the Haynes wins over the Clymer manual.
I can make up a fitting for the original switch but would rather get the right one. Anybody got an idea of the correct way to make the connections or have a suitable one for sale?
One more thing, the yellow wire in the heated grip harness shown gets almost too hot to touch when it's on Low setting. I assume this is a resistance wire. Is it normal for it to get so hot?
Cheers
David