Just picking everybodys brains here to what may have gone wrong on my 1200GSA , everything working ok when last used a couple of weeks ago but when I got the bike out Fri evening the battery was as flat as a pancake for no apparent reason, not even enough power to turn on the dash. Charged the battery overnight and the bike started and runs fine but when I went to adjust the suspension I can now only adjust the damping modes but I can not adjust the preload from just a single rider setting. No warnings or faults showing and I've tried everytime I've restarted the bike over the weekend (done a 350 mile round trip ) I assume the button on the bars must work because brief pushes change the damping settings but it doesn't matter how long you hold it it doesn't move to the next preload setting. I haven't seen or smelt any magic smoke so not sure if the flat battery and the ESA problem are connected or not.
2008 esa not working
- Thread starter kevmean
- Start date
I know this sounds mad but...
Does it have ABS and has there been any issue with the speedo?
When my speed sensor went bad (Final drive) my speedo stopped working for a short while then re-started and the ABS light came on. Strangely the ESA did exactly what you describe as well.
Quite how ESA is linked to the ABS and speed sensor is clearly a BMW canbus thing but replacing the speedsensor sorted it instantly.
A quick GS911 plug in for a diagnostic will sort it.
Roger.
Does it have ABS and has there been any issue with the speedo?
When my speed sensor went bad (Final drive) my speedo stopped working for a short while then re-started and the ABS light came on. Strangely the ESA did exactly what you describe as well.
Quite how ESA is linked to the ABS and speed sensor is clearly a BMW canbus thing but replacing the speedsensor sorted it instantly.
A quick GS911 plug in for a diagnostic will sort it.
Roger.
Roymondo
Registered user
Spring preload is only adjustable when at a standstill - Presumably the bike uses the readout from the speed sensor to determine that it is indeed not moving?
You have the engine running when attempting to alter the preload I presume??
AberdeenAngus
Registered user
Yup, engine running but stationary, if my memory serves me right.
As you've had battery problems, I would disconnect the battery and short the +ve and -ve leads together (on the bike, not the battery).
Then reconnect the freshly charged battery.
See where you go from there.
(It makes all the do-dahs do a reset.)
As you've had battery problems, I would disconnect the battery and short the +ve and -ve leads together (on the bike, not the battery).
Then reconnect the freshly charged battery.
See where you go from there.
(It makes all the do-dahs do a reset.)
I meant Kevmeans bike ya berk!
I did think about the speed sensor possibly being the cause but the speedo works ok and the indicators still self cancel and there are no warnings showing on the dash (warnings still do work as I picked up a puncture late in the journey and the tyre pressure warning came on ) . Also I tried every time with the bike at a standstill with the engine running , I may try the removing battery and shorting the leads together to see if that does any good. I have to take the wheel out later to see if I can get the tyre repaired or replaced.
Well the disconnecting the battery for a while and shorting the leads together while disconnected did no good at all confirmed the speed sensor is working by running the bike in gear on the centerstand which quite rightly provoked an ABS fault light ........................ realised why I picked up a puncture now as well as it seems the tyres are made in china the same as the rest of the BMW overpriced tat ........... beginning to wish I'd stuck with just my Buells which are far more reliable.
And French made tyres, say, don't puncture ? Well worn tyres of any make & country of origin are more prone to puncture. Almost certainly the computer you use to comment here uses Chinese made components. It's the way of the world.
Nothing wrong with Chinese made parts but when they sell them with German made prices without the quality that should go with the price? ........ the Tyre comment was tongue in cheek but I was very surprised to find the Metzelers are Chinese made.
I'd guess that the original tourances when the bike was built were made in Germany. It's actually the replacement tyres which ae Chinese not the OE ones.
If you are having your tyres changed at a stealers then you are far too rich and should just buy a new bike with a warrantee.
If you are having your tyres changed at a stealers then you are far too rich and should just buy a new bike with a warrantee.
Bendy toy
Registered user
On an 8 years old bike its not unlikely that winter worm has done something nasty. The ESA uses a stepper motor to raise the preload. Has that been driving against a seized mechanism, blown the motor and flattened the battery? Has it blown a fuse?
I use goo in the tyres and ever since have not had a puncture that mattered. PunctureSafe is my preferred but this isnt a puncture thread. So with luck I got away with mentioning it.
I use goo in the tyres and ever since have not had a puncture that mattered. PunctureSafe is my preferred but this isnt a puncture thread. So with luck I got away with mentioning it.
No fuses as such on a 1200 Bendy, suspension worked ok last time out as you could feel it raise and lower , it doesn't even select the next preload on the dash ie 2 person emblem from 1 person which normally changes with the button and then flashes whilst it changes preload...... Oh and my local independent bike place changes tyres on my loose wheels for me Flipfly , he might not be cheapest but he is ok on price and he did give me a set of tyres for free for a charity JoGLE trip a few years ago 
You've done the obvious checks, and nothing has come up. You havent reported any other problem with the bike, so sadly I guess its time to go to your BMW dealer and see what their fancy gadgets can find it wrong.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Revs Racing who do the W(ilbers)ESA conversions might have come across the problem.
Well just to update on this the bike has been sat in the shed of shame for the last few weeks while I used my other bikes ,I'd tried numerous times to see if I could find any faults but still had only the damping adjustment available on the dash and could hear the damper motors working Ok. Today decided to get the bike out and take it for a run anyway and so just turned ignition on to check battery wasn't flat and then immediately turned it off before all the checks had completed because I wanted to take the seat off and lo and behold the front and rear stepper motors were whirring away merrily which I have never heard it do with the ignition off before, let them finish what they were doing and then started the bike and the ESA preload settings were back on the dash again ;-)
The previous times I'd tried it I'd always let the checks complete when I turned the ignition on so suspect it was the fact that I'd interrupted it's check that made the difference.
The previous times I'd tried it I'd always let the checks complete when I turned the ignition on so suspect it was the fact that I'd interrupted it's check that made the difference.
An odd symptom for sure, you are the first person on the forum I'm aware of to experience this.
Lets hope it was some spurious logic problem that has now reset and won't reoccur.
Lets hope it was some spurious logic problem that has now reset and won't reoccur.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Thanks for posting. Yet another example of fancy electrickery confusing itself under normal use.
I'm rebuilding my bike and can't help but notice how complex my (Showa) ESA units are especially at the front. For all that cost they could have used just one hydraulic pump motor and a small accumulator to drive both shocks. Then the ride height could have self adjusted on the move. How nice it would be to have an easy leg reach at low speed (e.g. around town) but have the bike jack up on the move. Only allowing ESA to change height (very slowly) when stopped was a missed opportunity.
I'm rebuilding my bike and can't help but notice how complex my (Showa) ESA units are especially at the front. For all that cost they could have used just one hydraulic pump motor and a small accumulator to drive both shocks. Then the ride height could have self adjusted on the move. How nice it would be to have an easy leg reach at low speed (e.g. around town) but have the bike jack up on the move. Only allowing ESA to change height (very slowly) when stopped was a missed opportunity.
Not sure I'd want to trust the current crop of BMW software writers for that one though....
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