2011 R1200GSA struggling to accelerate at high rpm problem!!

[Mistacat]

If yours picks the front wheel up under hard acceleration I take it you have the traction control turned off.
When I say clutch slip I was thinking, say 50 to 100 Rpm engine speed difference to road speed which would not be rider detectable but the ECU could control the situation.
It was just a thought as it would be easy to write it into the software especially as the clutch could be made to slip on the earlier bikes.

 

[Nin]

It may be worth getting in touch with Roger04RT on here or Advrider.

He seems to know his way around the ecu pretty well and is a very helpful fella.


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[Moonmanzn]

Yeah will sort that in a bit

Cleaned my injectors and perfect 4 point mist so that's ticked off now

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[Moonmanzn]

It may be worth getting in touch with Roger04RT on here or Advrider.

He seems to know his way around the ecu pretty well and is a very helpful fella.


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Yup, he already looked at my logs as well as mistacat and they both noticed the negative engine load.

Other than that he didnt notice anything else

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[Nin]

Swan Vestas then if those two can’t sort it.


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[Mistacat]

I had a lot of communication with Roger04RT during the time he was involved with the AF-XIED development. He was using an innovate LC1 on his RT which is a gadget that I had used many years ago on cars.
With having extra lambda sensor ports in my exhausts to take wide band sensors and a dual channel innovate LM2 which was also hooked up to my ECU I was able to give him feedback ( AFR`s and engine data) on the AF-XIED`s when they first hit the market.
He is a very helpful and knowledgeable chap, I will drop him an email.

 

[botus]

I bloody hope not!!!

But yours had negative as well?

Mines got 18k. Doesnt feel like clutch slips as its picks front wheel up on hard acceleration and I don't get speed increase with runaway revs

my hex head only slips at 7k nothing lower down ever and usually only combined with extra effort from wind resistance so from 70mph and 7K, and it'll revs out when it shouldn't (flipping nuisance, why couldn't it it be were it belongs on the right side and better still not broken)

how about TC just turns of the fuel pump ? and neither ignition or injectors needed to know about it ?

 

[Moonmanzn]

Yes he is very helpful, thinks its fuel flow.

Bypassed my FC straight to battery

Will go test now

 

[Mistacat]

my hex head only slips at 7k nothing lower down ever and usually only combined with extra effort from wind resistance so from 70mph and 7K, and it'll revs out when it shouldn't (flipping nuisance, why couldn't it it be were it belongs on the right side and better still not broken

how about TC just turns of the fuel pump ? and neither ignition or injectors needed to know about it ?

It is not fuel flow as I have a fuel pressure gauge as a permanent fitment in the dash It holds 60 psi steady under full throttle.

 

[botus]

Ah forgot

My I level is 08 11 500 so pretty much software from when it was built

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BMW on cars and bikes like to pretend there is no such thing as software updates.... actually BMW are the only ones I know of that do it correctly and write a batch of known to be compatible updates to every module on the bike in one hit. Most manufuacturers flash one module at a time and all vehicles are a mix and match mess of conflicting garbage.

On a BMW you get the original factory build i-level (integrated software level), a good dealership will flash the bike when sold new to bring any minor fixes to the first owner and then that tends to be it for the bikes life. Even though by 2 years old there’s often a batch of minor but worthwhile fixes for multiple little things. The bike records the first the last change and the current in a log.

However crooked lazy dealers can flash one module and it still records the bike as getting an i-level update when it didn’t. Say they put an alarm and code this the bike says the i-level changed.... but the engine map part number is still the same... I don’t have a GS911 but the motoscan app lets you see all this info.

On a GS of this vintage where there’s little to update (my hex head is 12 minutes in and out of the workshop and writing every module with a new version - except ABS where the never do this ???) it cost 15 minutes labour to update the whole thing. Well worth doing and idiot proof. The world is changing and its now becoming common to push updates..... part caused by the explosion of electronics and part the rushed model cycles mean the software was just a bodge up when the bike was released.

Usually the i-level get 3 changes per year but on an old bike nothing is changing ... after say 3 years of fixes

This is an old one but you can find i-level up to 2016 K25 GS is on page 22, (where the software uses code K24)

http://fsfikke.com/data/P3.65.1_ISTA-P VERSION AND I-LEVEL OVERVIEW.pdf


so your bike i-level isn't even listed as the dealer tool changed from progman (when yours was last near a computer 12 years ago !!!!) to ISTA and now ISTA is the old dealer tool... there will definitely be changes you ought to get... and there WILL be a later engine map.... if its any good or related to your faulty who knows

the guys at BMW Guildford are easily the best in the country..... I would do this no hesitation, they are quite happy to do software updates...… did my mates k1300 as a matter of course selling as approved used.... and when my rear ABS sensor died flashed the bike I-level as a favour

 

[Moonmanzn]

!!!!!UPDATE!!!!

so bypassed fuel control module to battery via a fuse, used fused as a switch. Fuse quickly in and start bike.

Slow speeds the bike seems crisper and poker,

Bike now pulls very well and strong up to 7k then gets a bif fluffy, but definitely a difference as I even yelled YESssss in my helmet.

Turned around after few miles and connected fuel control module and was definitely more dead on the way back.

The fuel control module, is the newer powder coated one and off a working bike.

So assuming that it isnt the problem but maybe a slowed flow from the fuel pump, so when its bypassed the flow is max which gives me a better ride but still possibly restricted enough to move the symptoms to 7k?

Any thoughts?

I have back flushed the filter and ran clear, could also blow through the filter and housing with minimal effort. Possible filter partially collapsed?

Pump is a new quantum one rated at correct psi.

Botus, I will be taking it to guildford post lockdown for latest update

 

[Mistacat]

As I said in post #19 check the fuel pressure.
It could be a faulty regulator or split fuel pipe in the tank or a leaking connector or cracked fuel filter housing opening up under pressure, the list goes on.

 

[Moonmanzn]

As I said in post #19 check the fuel pressure.
It could be a faulty regulator or split fuel pipe in the tank or a leaking connector or cracked fuel filter housing opening up under pressure, the list goes on.

How did you rig to check fuel pressure?

I have had the pump and hoses out and they all seemed fine. Will take pump assembly out again and check again.

Swap over another setup maybe and run with that.

I have never heard of a pressure regulator giving up the ghost so didnt even consider that.

 

[botus]

sounds like it ups the fuel pressure so runs richer around the emission control fun up to 5k… thus feels pepped up (but eventually adaptions would wind it down if closed loop ?)

so something still holding it back at the top end?

 

[Moonmanzn]

sounds like it ups the fuel pressure so runs richer around the emission control fun up to 5k… thus feels pepped up (but eventually adaptions would wind it down if closed loop ?)

so something still holding it back at the top end?

No dont think so, it pulled cleaner through where it normally feels flat till about 6600ish and then gets fluffy. Seems like issue has moved into even higher revs with max fuel pump at all times.

My thinking is with the controller bypassed the max flow fixes the issue at my initial problem area as not governed by controller...but then when WOT the fuel pump is still dealing with restriction/collapsed filter/crack or something

 

[botus]

just an aside...…

go down the road with the indicator on and see if it just keeps going please ?

if so later software will turn it off (bit like a 350LC) …. you'll get 33 flashes below 40mph and around 21 at 70mph. I'm sure pre update both bikes hex head and k1300gt would just keep running. Now both turn off. Actually at 90 mph on some European silly motorway junctions 21 isn't enough but there u go.... A 350LC did time and distance, but why would we expect BMW 30 years on to get it right.....

 

[Santa-2512]

As I said in post #19 check the fuel pressure.
It could be a faulty regulator or split fuel pipe in the tank or a leaking connector or cracked fuel filter housing opening up under pressure, the list goes on.

You may have hit the nail on the head

many years ago i had an old Triumph Herald with an inbuilt reserve tap on the fuel tank

it was brilliant, and for a small bhp 1.3 was quite nippy,

One day i had similar problems as the OP it would be fine up to about 30-40 moh, then suddenly it would loose all

power, cough and splutter till the revs / load was reduced and then would repeat all over again

I dropped it off to my mate who was a mechanic and ask him if he could fine the fault

next night the car was outside his house, so i dived in and asked if he'd had chance to look at the car ...

All done was his response, and he threw a small 15mm length of hose at me, round the bottom of where the jubillee

clip located was a small mark, about 5mm long but when you flexed the hose you could see a split,

It was the hose which came of the top of the fuel tank which rotated when you turned the reserve tap.

in the normal position the hose wasn't stressed, so the split stayed closed

Move the lever to reserve, the hose twisted, and the increased pull on the fuel tank from the pump sucked in air.

as Mistacat says may be a tiny nick or split in a line or seal not seating properly

 

[Mistacat]

I explained how to set up and test the fuel pressure in post # 34.
The regulator is a mechanical fixed pressure device 4 bar on a TC and 3.5 bar hexhead. But anything can develop a fault. The pressure of my pattern pump when connected to a battery was 120 psi with the return from the regulator capped.
With 60 psi fuel pressure it does not take much of a split to loose pressure.
I fitted the gauge as it was a cheap and easy way to keep an eye on things. I was loosing top end power, fitted my innovate LM2 and it was recording an AFR of 18 to 1 on full throttle on both cylinders. so checked the fuel pressure at full throttle 30 psi.
If I had carried on without sorting it, it would have been bye bye exhaust valves.

 

[Moonmanzn]

Just got back from a test ride with my brothers pump and housing fitted...and it's pulling all the way to 7k.

Cant be fuel pump as that's new....so must be collapsed filter.

Ah ok thanks Mistacat,

Will try find a new housing and filter, or cut my housing open and see if I can jig a filter in and bypass it.

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[Moonmanzn]

Going to test fuel housing outside the bike in a bucket with a battery and see if any leaks under pressure

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