2015 R1200RT wethead non starter

[DrFarkoff]

@Duggie121

So I would unplug and unscrew the Lamda probes to save removing the headers

Just unplug them unscrew them and set them somewhere they can't get damaged

Try to start the bike IF the cat is blocked there should be enough of an opening for a fair portion of the exhaust gasses to escape and it should run

If it still does not run?? Go and get two decent brand NEW sparkplugs from an Autoparts store If yours is a wet head I think the NGK number is LMAR8D-J 2013 on R1200 Wethead ??

Fit them in the main sparkplug holes and click the upper coil packs home

Does it run now ??

I have seen fouled plugs give a spark of sorts which disappears under compression The only diagnostic test for this is to fit brand new from a decent source (Not e bay or Amazon !!!)

let us know how you get on

 

[MotoRevive]

It is possible to melt a Cat. I've seen it happen.

When I was working in an infamously awful main dealer, a tech left two coils unplugged on a K1600.

He ran it up to temperature on the bench and didn't notice to cat was glowing bright red.

Those two cylinders were still injecting fuel. Straight into the cat. And burning there. The cat was wrecked.

Did the dealer inform the customer or replace the Cat ???

No. They sent the bike out because it would be covered under warranty as long as he left the dealership.

It didn't matter that the bike ran like crap with low power. Or that the bike could catch fire. Or that the customer may fail to Overtake etc and end up dead etc.

Must protect the bottom line above all....

 

[Duggie121]

I’ve taken the lambda probes out and put a endoscope camera down through the holes, the cat looks ok, certainly doesn’t look burnt.
I replaced the spark plugs with new NGK plugs the following day this happened along with a new battery.
I’m now waiting for the new fuel line to turn up later today, once that’s fitted I can start cranking the bike over again.
I may leave the lambda probes out just to see if this helps when trying to start it.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I’ve taken the lambda probes out and put a endoscope camera down through the holes, the cat looks ok, certainly doesn’t look burnt.
I replaced the spark plugs with new NGK plugs the following day this happened along with a new battery.
I’m now waiting for the new fuel line to turn up later today, once that’s fitted I can start cranking the bike over again.
I may leave the lambda probes out just to see if this helps when trying to start it.

Did you try the new spark plugs with the questionable fuel ?? They may be "polluted" for the want of a better word New plugs like everything in this new Woke world are not like the Old Champion N9YC of yesteryear

Just scoosh Easy start into the air filter housing Which will distribute it to both sides whilst spinning over

You reckon you have spark

You seem to have an indecent amount of compression on both sides

Not much else remains

 

[Duggie121]

Fitted the new fuel line this evening, set up the gs-911 and checked for any faults….non recorded, removed the air filter and sprayed a good amount of easy start into the air filter box, bike started up and clouds of smoke continued to bellow from the exhaust, bike ran for a few moments no worrying knocks or bangs, then engine spluttered and died refusing to start unless easy start used in the air box !
Feel like I’m getting somewhere but not quite solved it yet

 

[Santa-2512]

So you have made progress

the bike runs

So you have squeeze , bang, blow

The only thing missing is suck

Have you confirmed you are getting fuel through the injectors?

if so, how much (flow volume) & injector spray pattern

The only things that springs to mind from here are


Blocked fuel line

Fuel pump failure / dying/ no signals from ECu


When you turn on the bike, do you hear the fuel pump energise / prime ?


Going back to basics and remembering digital ignitions systems

I may be rusty but the starting sequence is roughly

Ignition on

Fuel pump primes - sends ok signal to ECU

Cam & or Crank MAF /MAP , Ignition coils sensors energise & await / send ok signal to ECU

Starter motor triggers

Cam / crank / MAF / MAP sensors send data pulses to ECU

ECU checks values from cam / crank sensor & sends triggers to ignition coils

Igntion coils fire spark plugs

ECU checks recieved data & compares to digital fuel map (to work out where / what the engine state / speed is ) = Engine running / not running

If the sensor values are all ok, the ecu sends a trigger to the fuel pump to run

And combstion continues =

If the values dont show engine running, the fuel pump isnt set to run , so no combustion takes place

hopes this helps

 

[Duggie121]

Just to give an update on things….
The bike is back running as it should, I’ve only ridden it locally getting it up to temp and giving it a good blast, but everything seems fine, it’s probably running better than before all this happened !
After going through all the diagnostic and other checks I carried out I can 95% say it was down to bad fuel. The only thing that niggles me is why I managed to ride 4/5 miles before the bike started spluttering and losing power ?! I’d have thought it just wouldn’t have started in the first place ?!
Anyway at the moment things seem as they should so that’s positive.
Big thank you for all the replies helping me to get this sorted, much appreciated

 

[theoneandonly]

where did the fuel come from ? big garage with lots of turn-over ? or little garage with small turn over ?

i'd be tempted to go back and talk to them OR their supplier.
you can't prove anything , but if they have done it to others , they may have complained too.
did you keep any of the bad fuel ? if so decant it into a tall container , leave it overnight and see what it looks like after 24 hours , water will separate out.

 

[Santa-2512]

Throw some water killer stuff into the tank.

you may have an inch or two of water in the tank when you throw the bike into a long bend , it sucks up the water , and cough cough

 

[Duggie121]

I’ve always used E5 fuel from main garages…bp, shell or esso garages…never from supermarkets. I haven’t used the bike a great deal this yr so I’m guessing the fuel was probably past its best. I’m just going to be cautious with it by riding locally before venturing out on longer trips.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I’ve always used E5 fuel from main garages…bp, shell or esso garages…never from supermarkets. I haven’t used the bike a great deal this yr so I’m guessing the fuel was probably past its best. I’m just going to be cautious with it by riding locally before venturing out on longer trips.

There are two products that you may want to invest in

Wynns DriFuel to remove any water and do a few runs

Then IF by any chance you will not be near the bike for a while STA-BIL to stabilise the fuel

Leaving the tank as full as possible before leaving it, will also help as there is less space for volatiles to evaporate into

Plus having added STABIL and riding it will make sure that it is right through the fuel system

 

[MotoRevive]

Just to give an update on things….
The bike is back running as it should, I’ve only ridden it locally getting it up to temp and giving it a good blast, but everything seems fine, it’s probably running better than before all this happened !
After going through all the diagnostic and other checks I carried out I can 95% say it was down to bad fuel. The only thing that niggles me is why I managed to ride 4/5 miles before the bike started spluttering and losing power ?! I’d have thought it just wouldn’t have started in the first place ?!
Anyway at the moment things seem as they should so that’s positive.
Big thank you for all the replies helping me to get this sorted, much appreciated

Because you had 4-5 miles of good fuel in your pump, fuel lines, fuel rail, filter etc.


Lets hope that's all it was.

 

[timeandtide]

Plaudits to all those who have made helpful suggestions and have stuck in there until sorted.
UKGSer at its best!