2019 RT LE

[Morety]

....anything in particular of concern to look for in these? Thinking of trading my RS for one as a better alternative for my injuries/comfort. LE model, low miles, looks good, test ride will be arranged. I've asked for history, including cardan shaft check. Not bothered that it's the non TFT version as I prefer clocks/nav unit anyway. I understand that there may have been some software improvements on '21 bikes which affect fuelling/suspension and that lights were improved. I ride a new RT as a duty bike so am pretty familiar with the latest models but haven't ridden a '19. One thing worth asking is whether this, the first of the shiftcams, is best avoided?

 

[Easy_Rider]

There is a nice 2020 R1250RT for sale on the RT forum for £10250

Its the pre facelift like i have. there a great bike, and i can't fault them.

2020 R1250RT £10250

 

[Morety]

Lovely bike, but too far away to view. I have my eye on one locally for a similar price. Similar spec/colour too.

 

[Easy_Rider]

IMO i can't think of anything to worry about with them. There not the sort of bike that owners give a hammering to. The engine and drive train is the same as the other 1250's.
I have only had my RT since last december and enjoy riding it every time i go out on it..
I also love the LCOG for the big bike it is.

 

[Morety]

My only concern is whether some of the dodgy shiftcam engines made their way into the RT, having read a fair bit on some reported issues with early GS shiftcam engines. Cardan shaft check will either be due or have been done so that's not a concern. I know that there's been mods to the software and to the intake design of post facelift models as well as better lights. The one I'm looking at is not, unfortunately, spec'd with the spots but seems to have most other boxes ticked. It has speakers but no radio (apparently, speaking to the seller). No assignments for extra buttons down the left of the cockpit fairing, just covers in place. Might be worth looking at but not really sold on this one just yet.

 

[Easy_Rider]

I've not heard or read any problems with the 1250 RT engine.
But i've asked on the forum for you.

 

[Easy_Rider]

What is you budget ?
PX or not

 

[casbar]

Just make sure you have a warranty in case the exhaust flap fails. I have a 2019 and it has had a set of headers and we have a 2019, 2020 and a 2021 Blood bike, all have had new headers due to flap failure.

 

[Morety]

Just make sure you have a warranty in case the exhaust flap fails. I have a 2019 and it has had a set of headers and we have a 2019, 2020 and a 2021 Blood bike, all have had new headers due to flap failure.

Yes, some of ours were the same. New one is holding up though Warranty is 3 months so unlikely to catch things in time. I service the flapper valve myself every 6 months on my RS and so far, so good. There are bypass kits available in case of fail open which allow you to leave them and wire the solenoid to a new connection.

 

[Morety]

What is you budget ?
PX or not

£11K PX.

 

[casbar]

Yes, some of ours were the same. New one is holding up though Warranty is 3 months so unlikely to catch things in time. I service the flapper valve myself every 6 months on my RS and so far, so good. There are bypass kits available in case of fail open which allow you to leave them and wire the solenoid to a new connection.

Yes I know all about the bypass kits, have had a water cooled RT since 2014. I also service mine. If mine plays up I will fit a solenoid. The BMW insured warranty doesn't cover the valve either

 

[Easy_Rider]

The last exhaust i had done on my bike was a different part number to the one before.
BMW Motorrad cotswold told me that they have not had to replace any of these ones yet.
The old part number was C18.51.8.559.520 and the new one is C18.51.9.829.769.
Mine was last changed to the new part number 6,000 miles ago in 2022.

 

[Morety]

Mine's currently one of the older ones and I've had no trouble with it. I guess it can be a lottery. No issues with my 2016 GSA too and that covered some miles.

 

[Easy_Rider]

That the only problem with any forum, people post about all the bad things but rarely post about all the good things they have found with there bike.

 

[littleade]

Can't comment on the RT but as a general observation the ancillaries improved between my 2018 1200 GS and the 2020 1250 that replaced it and my 2023 RS is an improvement on the 2020 GS. The Hillhold in particular was much improved as is the gearbox/QS. Might be worth fonding out which IMU it has too and if it has cornering ABS etc I'm sure none of these would be deal breakers but maybe worth watching out for and as you have access to a newer BB RT you'll be able to spot any differences yourself. Good luck

 

[stonehenge]

Yes, some of ours were the same. New one is holding up though Warranty is 3 months so unlikely to catch things in time. I service the flapper valve myself every 6 months on my RS and so far, so good. There are bypass kits available in case of fail open which allow you to leave them and wire the solenoid to a new connection.

How do you service one of these? My understanding is that any grease / lube used merely burns off?

 

[zoltan]

having read a fair bit on some reported issues with early GS shiftcam engines.

Had a 2019 model and now a 2022 model shiftcam engine. No problems. What are the issues you are referring too?

 

[Morety]

How do you service one of these? My understanding is that any grease / lube used merely burns off?

I remove the top cover, disconnect the wiring, and remove the end pipe to get access to the flapper valve. I then go to town on carbon build up using an old toothbrush and use some GT85 to clean up the top bearing, taking care to bung the pipe up to prevent anything getting to the bottom bearing and cat. Once it's all cleaned up, I check operation is free with no issues, then add some copper slide high temp grease to top bearing (top end only) and spring. Bottom bearing is designed to release any moisture build up through the bottom housing, so that just gets a thorough clean and inspection. Once happy, I reassemble in reverse order, and leaving the top cover off, check operation at various revs. Since my software update, the flapper no longer cycles on ignition-on. Instead it opens or closes with revs, so I just cycle up and down through the revs checking operation, then replace top cover. There's little to go wrong providing it's kept on top of. I have carbon remover (used to clean gun barrels) which can be applied to both top and bottom bearings and left for 30 minutes before cleaning out to remove residues, flushed with brake cleaner before lubing the top bearing. The underside (inside) of the top bearing housing is cleaned off thoroughly to remove any lube there otherwise it can collect a lot of carbon build up to form a paste which will harden with heat/time. The bearings are designed to run dry so it's only the visible moving parts which are greased up. I do wonder if more people did this would we see the same number of seized bearings but there's plenty who say they do clean the flapper valve and it still seizes. I guess it needs doing reasonaby regulary as part of regular maintenance. BMW service don't touch it at service so for those having it serviced, it never sees any maintenance and this may be why a lot have seized?

 

[zoltan]

How do you service one of these? My understanding is that any grease / lube used merely burns off?

Morety explained how, the paste is the most important part after cleaning.
Use this https://www.weicon.de/en/anti-seize...ee-lubricant-and-release-agent-paste/10000193
Recommended by chaps on this site. Applied when purchased my 2022 bike. Done 9000 miles without issues. £26 delivered. Yes expensive but worth it.
WEICON Anti-Seize Nickel can be applied at a large temperature range between -30 C and 1,450 °C.

 

[stonehenge]

Thanks

I remove the top cover, disconnect the wiring, and remove the end pipe to get access to the flapper valve. I then go to town on carbon build up using an old toothbrush and use some GT85 to clean up the top bearing, taking care to bung the pipe up to prevent anything getting to the bottom bearing and cat. Once it's all cleaned up, I check operation is free with no issues, then add some copper slide high temp grease to top bearing (top end only) and spring. Bottom bearing is designed to release any moisture build up through the bottom housing, so that just gets a thorough clean and inspection. Once happy, I reassemble in reverse order, and leaving the top cover off, check operation at various revs. Since my software update, the flapper no longer cycles on ignition-on. Instead it opens or closes with revs, so I just cycle up and down through the revs checking operation, then replace top cover. There's little to go wrong providing it's kept on top of. I have carbon remover (used to clean gun barrels) which can be applied to both top and bottom bearings and left for 30 minutes before cleaning out to remove residues, flushed with brake cleaner before lubing the top bearing. The underside (inside) of the top bearing housing is cleaned off thoroughly to remove any lube there otherwise it can collect a lot of carbon build up to form a paste which will harden with heat/time. The bearings are designed to run dry so it's only the visible moving parts which are greased up. I do wonder if more people did this would we see the same number of seized bearings but there's plenty who say they do clean the flapper valve and it still seizes. I guess it needs doing reasonaby regulary as part of regular maintenance. BMW service don't touch it at service so for those having it serviced, it never sees any maintenance and this may be why a lot have seized?

Thanks - will adopt the same