20w50 specification... is it the same?...
- Thread starter (RIP) Bobble
- Start date
Can I use WD40?
It's got a 'W and a '40' in the name. I normally use 10W40 so what's the difference? - they both seem very slippery.
It's got a 'W and a '40' in the name. I normally use 10W40 so what's the difference? - they both seem very slippery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Engineer View Post
Can I use WD40?
It's got a 'W and a '40' in the name. I normally use 10W40 so what's the difference? - they both seem very slippery.
Keeeeewwwwwwl...... might be a bit pricey, but damn easy to squirt from the can into the oil filler, and as a bonus it smells much better....... off to buy 100 cans right now.
Originally Posted by Engineer View Post
Can I use WD40?
It's got a 'W and a '40' in the name. I normally use 10W40 so what's the difference? - they both seem very slippery.
You can because the 'D' stands for dunce
Keeeeewwwwwwl...... might be a bit pricey, but damn easy to squirt from the can into the oil filler, and as a bonus it smells much better....... off to buy 100 cans right now.
HORIZONTALLY OPPOSED
Registered user
Confused
Every time I read an oil thread the theories are so varied. I can see the case for GTX on a cost basis & the fact we are talking dry sumped pretty basic design etc.I especially like the cost & suggested consumtion savings, who wants shaft drive & then spend half your life chucking oil down a 1" hole as opposed to on a chain, not me. The fully synthetic I thought was not a good option plus 20,000mls as this slows down bedding in process? The 10/40 semi synthetic is like cats pee & runs through the engine in the fashion one would expect of cats pee. What is the sensible answer, I know this will probably have Steptoe slapping his forehead in despair, but I would like his considered opinion, if he is prepared to give it one last time & I will follow the advice with a promise never to read an oil thread ever again.
Every time I read an oil thread the theories are so varied. I can see the case for GTX on a cost basis & the fact we are talking dry sumped pretty basic design etc.I especially like the cost & suggested consumtion savings, who wants shaft drive & then spend half your life chucking oil down a 1" hole as opposed to on a chain, not me. The fully synthetic I thought was not a good option plus 20,000mls as this slows down bedding in process? The 10/40 semi synthetic is like cats pee & runs through the engine in the fashion one would expect of cats pee. What is the sensible answer, I know this will probably have Steptoe slapping his forehead in despair, but I would like his considered opinion, if he is prepared to give it one last time & I will follow the advice with a promise never to read an oil thread ever again.
The definitive answer is within your grasp- No arguments or counter claims,or accusations of being an idiot - It's all in the bikes handbook.
I had a long chat to a guy at Opie oils (UKGSer discount suppliers) who said the main difference in motorcycle oils reflects the fact that most bike clutches run in the engine oil and need additives to account for this. We have a dry clutch behind half a tractor engine and he recommended Silkolube 20/50 mineral oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/performance_lubricants/pdf/silkolene/SILKOLUBESAE20W_50.pdf
I have run my 1150GS on this for a while and found it runs quietly and doesn't seem to use any oil (amazing) sells for about £17 for 5 litres.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/performance_lubricants/pdf/silkolene/SILKOLUBESAE20W_50.pdf
I have run my 1150GS on this for a while and found it runs quietly and doesn't seem to use any oil (amazing) sells for about £17 for 5 litres.
Bigtwin
Guest
Ahem!....
HORIZONTALLY OPPOSED
Registered user
Oop's, sorry dry clutch, its been a long day
...and I think you'll find that it isn't the correct spec for a GS....
this is the 2006 2nd edition handbook page.
i believe 20w50 is what is now recommended by BMW, so i think my duckhams 20w50 API SF/CD is OK.
my dealer uses castrol GP which is 20w50 SG
this is the 2006 2nd edition handbook page.
i believe 20w50 is what is now recommended by BMW, so i think my duckhams 20w50 API SF/CD is OK.
my dealer uses castrol GP which is 20w50 SG
Well that is very clear - for all round use in the UK 10W40 is best. If you go abroad and the temp is likely to be above 30C then use 10W50.
20W50 isn't the best all round grade for the UK because the temp frequently goes below 0C (unless of course you never ride in Winter).
It ain't rocket engineering!
Deleted account 211025001
Registered user
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2005
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 10
10/40 in a horendous traffic jam and mid 20's temp eqauled one very noisey cam chain (due presumably to loss in pressure to the tensioner). Have always used 20/50 since, generally runs much quieter and have never had a repeat of the noisey tensioner, even in much hotter conditions.
Anyway, my (1st edition) 1200 owners manual rates 20/50 as suitable from minus 10 to above plus 30 so reckon I'll be sticking with Castrol GP 20/50.
Can't see the point in synthetics when I change the oil every 6000 miles. In a modern car with stoopidly long service intervals maybe the resistancc that sythetics offer to oil grade breakdown from shear stresses and heat is worth the extra expense but not in a dry clutch, frequent oil change, tractor engine.
Andres
What you`re missing is that 10w40 is specced for -20C to +20C and UK ambient temperature does actually exceed +20C.
20w50 is specced for -10C to over 30C so is still a more suitable range.
You may need 10w40 in extreme low temperatures,but the -10C protection of 20w50 covers most eventualities,at least in proper,civilised,non rural areas of UK.
Besides....20w50 cures more rattles.
if i was over there - and i was a bit anal about it - which i'm not - i'd be using
10w-40SG for winter
20w-50SG for summer
in reality i used 20W-50SG all year round in the uk
over here - higher ambient - i still use 20w-50SG all year round
http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/oil-filters/Motorcycle%20Motor%20Oil.pdf
10w-40SG for winter
20w-50SG for summer
in reality i used 20W-50SG all year round in the uk
over here - higher ambient - i still use 20w-50SG all year round
http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/oil-filters/Motorcycle%20Motor%20Oil.pdf
What you`re missing is that 10w40 is specced for -20C to +20C and UK ambient temperature does actually exceed +20C.
20w50 is specced for -10C to over 30C so is still a more suitable range.
You may need 10w40 in extreme low temperatures,but the -10C protection of 20w50 covers most eventualities,at least in proper,civilised,non rural areas of UK.
Besides....20w50 cures more rattles.
The table from the manual in the post above states that 10W40 is for a temp range from -10 to 30C.
Precisely - but 20W is specified (in the table above) as greater or equal to 0C. So a bit dodgy in a UK Winter.
i was a softy southerner and my garage never went below 0 deg 
