A Ring and a Dingle

[Thinc2]

NOTE: I am an American living in Cork and this Ride Report was originally written for the great uneducated masses on ADVRider - hence the US slant. My apologies in advance for what will at times appear to be redundant narrative..

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It's time to explore the Southwest of Ireland. A land of rain, cows, sheep, tractors, narrow roads, great pubs, and most importantly, great, friendly people.

The morning started out true to form for a summer in Ireland – dismal and wet.

After all those years in Colorado, it was strange not packing camping gear for a trip, but this time I was travelling light – it was going be B&B's all the way – hopefully near pubs.

First stop would be Sheeps Head.

Not too much on this peninsula – no tourist towns, the roads only show up on the GPS when you go to full magnification. I had been to the adjacent peninsula a few weeks before – Mizen Head – the most Southwesterly point of mainland Ireland. They say the length of the country has long been measured “from Fair Head to Mizen Head”. (Wikipedia is my friend)

The scenery at Mizen Head was spectacular:

The distances in ireland are not long, but the going is slow. The GS is perfect for the boreens around here. (Boreen (from the Irish bóithrín, meaning a small road) is an Irish term for a narrow, rough, rural road.)

Sometimes you find the best places when it's drizzling and foggy.

The fog started to set in for real

Hmm – tough choice – Sheeps Head Drive or Goats Path. We're clearly not in Manhattan.

What the hell, I'm on vacation – I'll ride them both

Sheeps Head first – this is what I had come for.

And the fog just got thicker. There may be a great view here, but if it was more then 15 feet away, I couldn't see it.

I take Goats Path to the other side of the peninsula and the weather clears up. There is something to see after all

There were lots of sheep to see. Sheep pretty much everywhere. If you like sheep, this is the place to be.

Speed limits are a funny thing out here. In many cases, they are way faster than one could safely travel. Here's a normal two-way road, with minimal visibility because of the high hedges. Speed limit 80KM – you wouldn't make it a mile at that speed on this road.

Exploring the side roads

Yields a good spot for lunch

I get on the N71, which shows as a main highway on the map

And make my way to the town of Kenmare, where I find this odd sign out on the Main Street - this must mean something other than what it suggests to Americans...

I decide not to inquire within and instead find a room at a B&B right in the center of town

The day ends with a Murphy's at the pub.

A good day indeed

 

[Thinc2]

The next morning in Kenmare starts with rain gear once again

But I don't really care, because I'm headed to the Ring of Beara, supposedly one of the nicest parts of Ireland. I was not to be disappointed

The riding wasn't bad either

The weather continued to improve

And the sheep continue to enjoy the best views.

When I first moved here, I sometimes wondered why the drivers were so patient – always willing to let you in, and eager to pull to the side so you can pass.

Now I know why – they knew something I had not yet learned.

There's no use hurrying, because the faster you drive, the sooner you'll get stuck behind one of these

Tractors are everywhere – even downtown Cork. They are used to pull trailers at construction sites and all manner of farmwork. They are constantly on the roads.

I pass through Allihies and head to Garinish at the very point of the peninsula

And here the cows claim the top spot

In Castletownbere I stop for a quick roadside repair

I check out the fishing boats while having lunch. I've always thought i'd like to buy one of these and turn it into a private yacht. But you could probably never get the smell out.

I head up Healy Pass – probably the best road of the trip

And head out for Dingle on another narrow two-way road. Sometimes it's good to have someone in front of you to run sweeper, in case someone else is coming the other way

I go through the town of Inch, come around a corner and find this

Lots of surfers in ireland.

Dingle is a pretty well known town – it's one of Irelands tourist attractions and has broad name recognition. However, this part of the country is trying to reinforce the Gaelic language – which is really annoying if you're trying to find Dingle and the signs all say An Daingean. Especially if tourism is a key industry - brand recognition might be important.

The people in Dingle have figured this out too, and aren't giving up without a fight. While the authorities have gone around to all the road signs and painted out the Dingle name, leaving only An Daingean, some of the residents have come back behind them and painted the name back on with stencil kits.

And so I end a long day at a B&B in Dingle,

with a pint :beer

 

[Thinc2]

Dingle is a happening town and was packed in mid-summer. I was surprised to find a room right on the main strip on a Friday night.

Little did I know my room was right smack on top of the bar, where there was live music and singing and dancing. I had just retired to my room at 10pm when it started to shake and reverberate. I put my head to the pillow and 5 seconds later was fast asleep. A full day of riding will do that to you.


Dingle is a fishing village and I was fascinated with the boats

I know Day 3 is off to a good start because 1) it's not raining. And 2) the breakfast has Dingle Bay salmon on the menu

And 3) I don't forget to put my earplus in for once, eliminating that unnecessary and incredibly annoying stop after 5 minutes of riding.

So I head out for Connor Pass to traverse to the other side of the peninsula. One last look at Dingle

Maybe some rain up ahead

Over the Pass and down to Brandon Point

On the way, I come across a lesson in Patience. That's the ocean way, way in the back of the picture.

We find more tractors

And more narrow roads

And more sheep.

I have to say one thing about Irish sheep – they are smarter than the American deer. Because when they see or hear you coming, they consistently scamper out of the way. No jumping into the middle of the road at the last second – these sheep know what's going on.

The cows on the other hand, seem to be just as bovine as US cows.

Today I had decided not to plan a route in the GPS, because it kept keeping me from getting lost. So off I went – wonder what's down this road?

I find a huge deserted beach and get to do something i've wanted to do for a long time – ride the bike on the beach and in the Atlantic An awesome moment.

Eventually I decide to head back to Cork, so I take the rural route

I head towards the Gap of Dunloe.

Now I had been forewarned by the gentlemen on UKSGer that the Horse and Buggy crowd tries to keep you off the road through the gap. And in fact, when I arrived, a guy stops me and tells me to turn around. Says the road is closed until 6pm. It was noon at this time.

I ask him why the road would be closed, as it shows as a throughway on my GPS. He says it's on the big sign back there. I inquiry politely, but with a subtle hint of stubborness: “Really? It says the road is closed until 6pm on the sign?”

He answers “I have 40 buggies out there right now until 6pm”. I lie and tell him I am a patient man and will go slow. The second part at least is true. Plus, I point out that I run a quiet exhaust and won't scare the horses. He eventually relents and I go on through.

Thats the road coming through the gap. Nice place!

After that, a straight shot home with one last quick look on the way down from Molls Gap to Killarney

I hope you enjoyed the brief tour of Southwestern Ireland.

 

[Annette]

Great report and fantastic pics. Go on you really did get up to 80kph didn't you It's not that fast

 

[Thinc2]

Great report and fantastic pics. Go on you really did get up to 80kph didn't you It's not that fast

I never speed and tell

But I am careful coming around blind corners.

 

[MikeP]

Great report. Thanks for posting it here too.

 

[Bengaz]

Nice write up

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

Great report and pictures There are some pretty interesting places and roads on the Iveragh penninsula too (the one you avoided cos of the Ring of Kerry ) don't listen to everything Richie says!!.... next time maybe?

 

[Buz]

Nice report and great pics.........

Look at the pic below, crying out for it, legs in the wellies and on the edge of a cliff, thats the best, they push back that way

 

[Dave56]

Thanks for that really enjoyed it, great set of photos....................

 

[Davy F]

Nice report and pics.

 

[sijohnston]

great report. thanks fella.

 

[Norrie]

Nice part of the world thank's for the RR

 

[Stevie73]

Nice report! I know plenty of peeps over here that would love to be amongst so many sheep

 

[Hairnet600]

good stuff that

irish highways 100k limit on a road wide enough to be a dual carriageway

80k limit on a road narrower than the drive to some peoples houses........................

been like that even before they changed to kmh

 

[ChubbyThumper]

Really enjoyed that and fancy some of that Healy Pass!

 

[Mzokk]

Excellent Stuff thanks for posting!

 

[richie]

Nice report and great pics.........

Look at the pic below, crying out for it, legs in the wellies and on the edge of a cliff, thats the best, they push back that way

I know that sheep, she is only 3k from my house

 

[contact23]

like the report, came round the ring of kerry and stopped in dingle , its so amazing im changing plans and backtracking to see what its like going the oppisite direction, facking deadly drive ..wow

 

[Bryn]

Nice report- thanks for posting it up

Just caught up with it. Never been to Ireland, but it looks like I need to