Aaaagh Fuel Pump???

[Welshman]

Ok, so we have had rain and whilst doing some looowwww speed snot clay rides without ear plugs, the fuel pump has been whineing like an ex wife... in my ears..

So 2 days ago did 350 miles of sand and snot 2 days ago no issues and was riding solo, in the middle of nowhere, not a peep from the bike,... pump was whineing...

Yesterday, washed it.....the mistake...

Today, rode 6 MILES parked for 10 minutes, start go 200m it dies, splutters once and dies...

Walk to pub, 10 minutes away phone around get fetched, 1 hour later get a pickup and take it home, stop at pub on the way, carry on home, offload bike, open beer fridge and then the question.........................., shall we try it, why not.... and yes first press it fires no issueeek

So the symptoms:

1) It spins and all the dash lights are operational.
2) No smell of juice as it spins not firing.
3) It restarted later so I think not Hall.

I had a tank issue a month ago, I disconnected the fuel lines I did not mark the fuel lines, I assume wrong way around it would not work at all?

So I think Fuel Pump, any opinions?

 

[beermonster]

Mine (01 1150) had a spate of cut outs, then annoying re-starts. Cleaned connections and that solved the problem.

Start with your fuses, relays and then your connectors.

Apologies if you have already done the above

Simon

 

[monkeyboy]

As you know, there are a number of switches and contacts that control whether the fuel pump runs. If you're riding and the bike thinks the side stand is down for example it will cut the fuel pump. I've had a problem like this before and I've heard others have after a good wash - especially if you used a pressure washer. I never use a pressure washer any more and I always start it and let it run for 5 minutes after to let heat dissipate through the bike. The fuel pumps whine continuously. Both my BMs do it all the time and have done for ages. I reckon your problem is more to do with the circuit controlling the pump. It doesn't cut the starter circuit so you can still spin the engine and swear as it doesn't start.

IMO it won't be the fuel pump, just water in the electrics somewhere.

 

[Welshman]

OK will do contacts etc makes some sense it spent 3 hours in the sun in the interim whilst we were in pubs

But I got pump noises when I switched the ignition on?

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

OK will do contacts etc makes some sense it spent 3 hours in the sun in the interim whilst we were in pubs

Bastard

 

[Welshman]

Bastard

What!!!!! last hour I suffered the English were cleaning up in the cricket, unusual I know but!!!!!

 

[Welshman]

Wrong Diagnosis not fuel pump I think

Ok, so we have had rain and whilst doing some looowwww speed snot clay rides without ear plugs, the fuel pump has been whineing like an ex wife... in my ears..

So 2 days ago did 350 miles of sand and snot 2 days ago no issues and was riding solo, in the middle of nowhere, not a peep from the bike,... pump was whineing...

Yesterday, washed it.....the mistake...

Today, rode 6 MILES parked for 10 minutes, start go 200m it dies, splutters once and dies...

Walk to pub, 10 minutes away phone around get fetched, 1 hour later get a pickup and take it home, stop at pub on the way, carry on home, offload bike, open beer fridge and then the question.........................., shall we try it, why not.... and yes first press it fires no issueeek

So the symptoms:

1) It spins and all the dash lights are operational.
2) No smell of juice as it spins not firing.
3) It restarted later so I think not Hall.

I had a tank issue a month ago, I disconnected the fuel lines I did not mark the fuel lines, I assume wrong way around it would not work at all?

So I think Fuel Pump, any opinions?

Checked connections etc etc, disabled sidestand cut out just incase, put it back together, started first time, idled then died?????

Pulled plugs no apparent spark?

So I know coils break down when warm, so is this coils or the dreaded Hall Sensor, what fits the bill, this is a 1999 single spark, so no coil sticks??

 

[Welshman]

Checked connections etc etc, disabled sidestand cut out just incase, put it back together, started first time, idled then died?????

Pulled plugs no apparent spark?

So I know coils break down when warm, so is this coils or the dreaded Hall Sensor, what fits the bill, this is a 1999 single spark, so no coil sticks??

Edit, also pulled injectors no spray when cranking?

Doesn,t the Halkl Sensor also trigger the FI, may have an answer here

 

[monkeyboy]

Is the fuel pump definately priming?

 

[Steptoe]

Couple of weeks before christmas i had a GS come in that would just about idle but die when you opened the throttle, but had a good spark and fuel.

Convinced it was the pressure regulator i changed it without delving to deep.

Turned out it was the hall sensor. But didn't give any faults on the diagnostics Electrics, wonderful things to diagnose.

 

[Welshman]

Couple of weeks before christmas i had a GS come in that would just about idle but die when you opened the throttle, but had a good spark and fuel.

Convinced it was the pressure regulator i changed it without delving to deep.

Turned out it was the hall sensor. But didn't give any faults on the diagnostics Electrics, wonderful things to diagnose.

Mine did that to me last Sunday, after I dropped it in mud, it would start but as soon as I openened the throttle it died, my boot had removed the TPS cable as I went over, luckily no real damage to the TPS... I think...

Anyway, thanks, I assume it is Hall sensor and will go that route, now on stripping I feel some play in the Altenator bearings, should there be some or is it a nice early time to fix only 103,000 km,s whilst it is apart

 

[Welshman]

Is the fuel pump definately priming?

It makes noises and there was pressure in the system...

 

[Welshman]

Took out the Hall Sensor, cut open shrink wrap, insulation is shot just crumbled, looks like I found my problem

 

[monkeyboy]

Crikey mate, that looks buggered. Looks like its been too close to heat. Simple fix now though eh.

 

[Welshman]

Crikey mate, that looks buggered. Looks like its been too close to heat. Simple fix now though eh.

Except finding silicon cable on News Years Eve isn,t too easy, most industrial shops here are closed till the 4th, due to summer holidays.

But at least its found....

 

[dancata]

Except finding silicon cable on News Years Eve isn,t too easy, most industrial shops here are closed till the 4th, due to summer holidays.

But at least its found....

I have used UTP insulation on my Hall sensors, and it's running great 30k km after the job was done

Also, the UTP cable has the ecranation shield that you need

 

[Welshman]

I have used UTP insulation on my Hall sensors, and it's running great 30k km after the job was done

Also, the UTP cable has the ecranation shield that you need

I am a mechanical engineer what is UTP cable?

The net sugests it is good for about 50C only?

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

it is Unshielded Twisted Pair cable commonly used in computer networks. You would probably be better using FTP (foiled twisted pair) or STP (shielded twisted pair) but these aren't so easy to get. I have no experience with this stuff on bikes but cars need shielded cable. Its a fair point on the temp rating and the cable isn't very mechanically strong so vibration could lead to it failing. You would be better with something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Megajolt/Mega...91221?IMSfp=TL091221169002r8005#ht_500wt_1182 if it has enough cores.

 

[dancata]

it is Unshielded Twisted Pair cable commonly used in computer networks. You would probably be better using FTP (foiled twisted pair) or STP (shielded twisted pair) but these aren't so easy to get. I have no experience with this stuff on bikes but cars need shielded cable. Its a fair point on the temp rating and the cable isn't very mechanically strong so vibration could lead to it failing. You would be better with something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Megajolt/Mega...91221?IMSfp=TL091221169002r8005#ht_500wt_1182 if it has enough cores.

I know that the signal that the HES send to the motronic is weak, therefore the need of the shield.

Regarding temperature, I have tried to set it on fire, and it does not ignite very easily. So it looks the same that it did when I replaced it, and no HES problems anymore

 

[Welshman]

Done the business end, will finish assembly tomorrow