ABS warning lights

[Spud]

I have a 2002 1150 GS and recently the ABS lights have been flashing alternately when turning the ignition on. I put the bike on the optimate and all seemed well. But I went out to it this morning and the alternate lights are back (having been on the optimate for a couple of weeks)
I did the ABS reset that I found in an earlier thread and all seemed well with simultaneous flashing again when the ignition was switched on.
But .... I tried it again about 10 minutes later and we're back to alternate flashing. It again reset no problem and I've not tried it again since.
I'll hold my hand up and say I've not ridden it to see what happens then (too cold n 'orrible)
Battery shows 13.1 volts under no load and without ignition on. The battery, an Odyssey, is about 8 years though.
Am I right in leaning towards a battery issue (hopefully !!) ?
Any advice welcome ...

 

[robc]

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. Trace the wiring from the wheel speed sensors to their connection to the loom. The connector for my rear wheel speed sensor was green and furry. Some WD-40 and another ABS reset did the trick. Take it out for a quick ride when you can. If it doesn't do the "sqweeee clunk!" business then the signal from the wheel speed sensors isn't reaching the ABS control until.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Rob C

 

[Spud]

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. Trace the wiring from the wheel speed sensors to their connection to the loom. The connector for my rear wheel speed sensor was green and furry. Some WD-40 and another ABS reset did the trick. Take it out for a quick ride when you can. If it doesn't do the "sqweeee clunk!" business then the signal from the wheel speed sensors isn't reaching the ABS control until.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Rob C

Thanks Rob.
Last time I rode it I definitely got the "squeeee clunk" (good description!) but I'll have a look anyways ...
Thanks

 

[Galactic Greyhound]

You have Integral ABS (iABS -1 sometimes known as ABS3) on your 2002 R1150GS.

See link to Anton Largiader's article 'ABS Faults' below.

Look at iABS Fault Codes/Fluid Level too low:

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Filling Adapter:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/abs3_filling_adapter.pdf

Flushing & Bleeding:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

 

[robc]

Mine is a 2002 GS with ABS-II.

 

[Galactic Greyhound]

Mine is a 2002 GS with ABS-II.

I think the ABS can be ABS2 or iABS-1 on the 2001 - 2002 R1150GS so the type of Modulator needs to be confirmed.

The iABS makes a 'whizzy' sound when the brakes are operated (electric servo operating) the ABS2 makes no sound.

Lucky you having ABS2 - hopefully Spud will be the same!

If so, agree with your diagnosis re a wheel sensor failure problem as likely cause.

 

[Spud]

I think the ABS can be ABS2 or iABS-1 on the 2001 - 2002 R1150GS so the type of Modulator needs to be confirmed.

The iABS makes a 'whizzy' sound when the brakes are operated (electric servo operating) the ABS2 makes no sound.

Lucky you having ABS2 - hopefully Spud will be the same!

If so, agree with your diagnosis re a wheel sensor failure problem as likely cause.

I have no "Whizzy" sound on application of the brakes and no servo definitely .....

 

[JonF]

Definitely ABS2 then. When you did the reset, which instructions did you follow? there are two versions, one involving holding down the ABS button for 8 seconds, the other for a minute. My ABS needs resetting every six months or so, and it requires the one minute reset procedure to work.

 

[Galactic Greyhound]

ABS2 Fault Code Reader from Motobins, Part Number 95540.

ABS / MOTRONIC DIAGNOSER & RESETTING TOOL. CAN BE USED TO DIAGNOSE FAULTS AND RESET MOTRONIC AND ABS 1 & 2 UNITS. SPECIFICALLY FOR K100RS ( 4 VALVE ) , K1 , K1100RS , K1100LT, R850R , R1100R , R850GS , R1100GS, R1100RS , R1100RT ,. ALSO K75 ABS BRAKES. MODELS MUST HAVE A 3 PIN DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR SUPPLIED AS STANDARD. TOOL SUPPLIED WITH COMPREHENSIVE INSTRUCTIONS ON USEAGE.

https://www.motobins.co.uk/mobile/displayfinal.php?q=95540&topsearch=1&go=GO

This device allows you to read the Fault Code by counting the number of LED flashes.
You can use a 12v LED instead of this tester but in this case you have to read the number of blinks (LED off) between the flashes which is more difficult and prone to reading error).

The Motobins device is easier to use and worth the money in my opinion.
NOTE: Your R1150GS MUST have the 3-pin Diagnostic Connector for this device to work so check before buying!

 

[Spud]

Definitely ABS2 then. When you did the reset, which instructions did you follow? there are two versions, one involving holding down the ABS button for 8 seconds, the other for a minute. My ABS needs resetting every six months or so, and it requires the one minute reset procedure to work.

Used the 1 minute yesterday and when I turned it back on, all was back to "normal"
I didn't start it, and I've not dared try it again yet this morning !!

 

[Spud]

ABS2 Fault Code Reader from Motobins, Part Number 95540.

ABS / MOTRONIC DIAGNOSER & RESETTING TOOL. CAN BE USED TO DIAGNOSE FAULTS AND RESET MOTRONIC AND ABS 1 & 2 UNITS. SPECIFICALLY FOR K100RS ( 4 VALVE ) , K1 , K1100RS , K1100LT, R850R , R1100R , R850GS , R1100GS, R1100RS , R1100RT ,. ALSO K75 ABS BRAKES. MODELS MUST HAVE A 3 PIN DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR SUPPLIED AS STANDARD. TOOL SUPPLIED WITH COMPREHENSIVE INSTRUCTIONS ON USEAGE.

https://www.motobins.co.uk/mobile/displayfinal.php?q=95540&topsearch=1&go=GO

This device allows you to read the Fault Code by counting the number of LED flashes.
You can use a 12v LED instead of this tester but in this case you have to read the number of blinks (LED off) between the flashes which is more difficult and prone to reading error).

The Motobins device is easier to use and worth the money in my opinion.
NOTE: Your R1150GS MUST have the 3-pin Diagnostic Connector for this device to work so check before buying!

Looks like it has 3 bare wires on one end of it, how does it connect up?
Mine has the big round plug sat on top of the Air Filter, is that classed as the 3 pin one ??

 

[Galactic Greyhound]

That big round plug is normally used when the iABS-1 system is fitted - I think it is a 10-way plug.

Your 2002 R1150GS is at the transition between the ABS2 and the iABS-1 (ABS3) systems and also between the Motronic ECU MA2.2 (R1100) and MA2.4 (R1150) systems.

The R1150 models generally use the 10-pin diagnostic plug because this allows more data connections to the MA2.4 ECU which is more intelligent than the MA2.2 dumb version fitted to the R1100 models.

I am wondering if you might have a combination of both as you say you have ABS2 fitted.
The ABS2 diagnostic connector is a 3-pin socket blanked off with a Blue plug insert which is removed for testing.
It is fitted to the support rail across the rear mudguard behind the fuse/relay box.
A 3-wire cable goes into it.

The 3-wire lead terminals on the Tester are plugged into this 3-pin Diagnostic Socket.

I'll try and find out more on what sort of ABS/Motronic setup you have.
Can you post the last 7-digits of your VIN to check on the RealOEM Parts Fiche?

 

[Steptoe]

The Motobins device is easier to use and worth the money in my opinion.
NOTE: Your R1150GS MUST have the 3-pin Diagnostic Connector for this device to work so check before buying!

Please, please, please stop this scatter gun approach of offering advice on something that you've obviously no actual experience of. Everything you've posted so far is wrong and only adds confusion. Especially the above quote.
The 1150 models DO NOT have a three pin diagnostic plug.