Josey Wales
Registered user
Having removed the abs from my bike , if I remove the abs rings on the front and rear wheels do I need to put washers in their place thanks
Abs wheel ring removal
- Thread starter Josey Wales
- Start date
Johny w
Registered user
im wanting to know the same Josey......Ive deleted my ABS so i have no further use for them.
My gut feeling is that the caliper pistons will simply adjust to that missing 0,5mm
If you remove the ABS rings, where does the speedo get it's signals from?
The 1100 and 1150 GS models have cable driven Speedo’s.
From the speedo drive and cable unless an Roxster
Ah - that's what I suspected, but haven't been close to a GS for a while for inspection purposes.
Indeed - my first 4 Rocksters were non-ABS so no issues, but the Ed80 I'm re-commisioning has ABS, (just not sure which ring it uses for the speedo) and I'll probably be stripping the ABS off once I've got the bike fully running so watching all the ABS threads with interest.
Incidentally - I got the thing running last night.
It needs new injectors: only 1 is u/s, but it makes sense to replace both. It's handy to have a fully running other bike in the shed for temporarily borrowing parts from....
Johny w
Registered user
This thread has changed into a speedo cable issue!!
I think I'm right Josey, when I say you don't need to replace the ABS ring with washers if you remove it.
If its the same setup as mine that is!!..... I have the r1150gs 2003 integral ABS with BMW front calipers, it has a pressed steel ABS ring, that goes BEHIND the rotor, followed by the wavey washers, bobbins then disc bolts.
I have deleted the ABS, and like you I want to remove the ABS pressed steel ring.
The four piston calipers are self centering......so the thickness of the ABS ring, let's say 0.75mm, has changed, ie the rotor is 0.75 further in. So the outer pistons travel a further 0.75 and the inners travel less by 0.75 ......they come to a relaxing position after braking, just clearing the rotor......brake pads wear, sometimes unevenly, by far more than 0.75, so I think they'll be fine, I'm gonna remove mine unless somebody with good knowledge tells me otherwise.
@Josey Wales @Johny w There is a very useful part 34117670217
It is called a Stop disc all it is Is a large flat stainless washer that you fit behind the disc at the mount
there was a problem on bikes that were used all year in that, the edge where the rotor the bobbin mount and the wheel met corroded and the disc wore away at the brake disc mount
Fitting those between the disc and the wheel cured that forever
Remember to Heat those rotor bolts up to 110 degrees C plus, before trying to unscrew them!! They have integrated threadlock on the bolts !!
A light cleaning with a GOOD m8 x 1.25 tap is not a bad idea to prevent the remaining thread lock from galling up when refitting and remember its a drop or two of thread lock per bolt not a Tea spoon or you will never get them out again
It is called a Stop disc all it is Is a large flat stainless washer that you fit behind the disc at the mount
there was a problem on bikes that were used all year in that, the edge where the rotor the bobbin mount and the wheel met corroded and the disc wore away at the brake disc mount
Fitting those between the disc and the wheel cured that forever
Remember to Heat those rotor bolts up to 110 degrees C plus, before trying to unscrew them!! They have integrated threadlock on the bolts !!
A light cleaning with a GOOD m8 x 1.25 tap is not a bad idea to prevent the remaining thread lock from galling up when refitting and remember its a drop or two of thread lock per bolt not a Tea spoon or you will never get them out again
Just leave them in place. They don’t do any harm. Life’s too short for all this unnecessary buggering about.
Johny w
Registered user
Johny w
Registered user
Yes the threadless is a bugger, I'm pleased you said that because Ive already done it.......bought a tiny little torch a while ago and its great for such jobs. And like youcsay, you need to clean the threads.
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice
Johny w
Registered user
Agreed, but I've removed the discs anyway, I needed to find out why I was getting a chugging at the front when braking, so I'm replacing the discs.Just leave them in place. They don’t do any harm. Life’s too short for all this unnecessary buggering about.
Unsprung weight ….!!!!Just leave them in place. They don’t do any harm. Life’s too short for all this unnecessary buggering about.
On a GS
Just leave them in place. They don’t do any harm. Life’s too short for all this unnecessary buggering about.
Sadly over here they indicate that the bike may have had ABS and if it is not there now It will fail an MOT until rectified
#Expensive
So - they need to be removed to completely hide the fact that the ABS has been removed?
Johny w
Registered user
No absolutely not, I'm so pleased I've removed it......its a much better bike now in my opinion. I've left the ring on now, as the other side ofcthe wheel was starting to rot under the disc.
I just feel anything to do with the ABS is a waste if time and can be sold at some time.
So what if you added an abs ring to a non abs bike, how/why could they fail you ?
When I did mine I just removed the ABS rings front and rear without putting any spacers in because the brake pads will self centre. I did also remove the wheel spacing shim at the back wheel. 15k miles later and no problems.
One thing I also did to tidy things up was to remove the front and rear ABS sensors, put them in the lathe and face them off. Once refitted they looked pretty neat.
One thing I also did to tidy things up was to remove the front and rear ABS sensors, put them in the lathe and face them off. Once refitted they looked pretty neat.
Johny w
Registered user
Great job, I think I'll do the same, thanks for the post.
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