Allen bolt / chain adjuster and plate

Wapping

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They can vibrate loose and fall off.

Mine is missing, 300 miles from new.

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Hey-ho, at least the chain doesn’t need adjusting.
 
I think someone else had one missing yesterday on another post, apparently no problem getting a replacement.
 
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What is this “chain” you speak of that requires “adjustment”? How quaint.
 
On the f650gs I had the bolt kept coming loose luckily the bit that slides into the swingarm is in two halves so I replaced the nut with a nylock one. It looks like the captive nut is welded in, I would fit locking spring washers when you replace the bolt.
 
That’s a weird looking washer.
So are spring washers.

There are plenty of options if you Google serrated washers, I’ve used the Nord Lock nuts and washers on a few bikes where I found I was regularly losing fasteners and they work well.
 
Royal Enfields are cheap but most of these niggling little issues are easily solved at a very small cost to the owner.

You soon find that if you own one and want to fit aftermarket parts made in India that a set of metric taps is a good addition to your tool box as is a selection of metric fasteners to replace low grade ones whenever you do a job on the bike.

Nyloc nuts are cheap and help keep the bike intact or on things you need to undo quite frequently (such as chain adjusters) spending less than £5 to use things like Nord Lock nuts and washers is cheaper and less hassle than buying new adjusters.

For me it’s like going back to being a teenager when I was told to go round the bike and check everything was tight every Sunday morning. It’s something I had drummed into me by my dad who had it drummed into him when riding motorbikes as an MP.

If you can’t cope with the thought of doing this kind of thing then spend a few grand extra and buy a Triumph or similar :rob
 
That’s a weird looking washer.
Often fitted on spindle nuts on push bikes. They are usually used in high torque situations, an adjuster bolt only really needs to be nipped up and locked to stop it unwinding itself.
 
Royal Enfields are cheap but most of these niggling little issues are easily solved at a very small cost to the owner.

You soon find that if you own one and want to fit aftermarket parts made in India that a set of metric taps is a good addition to your tool box as is a selection of metric fasteners to replace low grade ones whenever you do a job on the bike.

Nyloc nuts are cheap and help keep the bike intact or on things you need to undo quite frequently (such as chain adjusters) spending less than £5 to use things like Nord Lock nuts and washers is cheaper and less hassle than buying new adjusters.

For me it’s like going back to being a teenager when I was told to go round the bike and check everything was tight every Sunday morning. It’s something I had drummed into me by my dad who had it drummed into him when riding motorbikes as an MP.

If you can’t cope with the thought of doing this kind of thing then spend a few grand extra and buy a Triumph or similar :rob

Just fitted pannier rails and engine bars/ally bash plate to mine.
Came from India. Pannier rails were £71 delivered and bars/bash plate were £155.

Bolt quality on a par with anything I’ve seen.

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The engines bars /belly pan are official RE parts

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But much cheaper from third party seller on eBay

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Even deducted VAT

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Ready to go on a Highland Birl. It's already done 1500 miles on a Berlin birl a d is at 2.5k with no problems bar the lost chain tensioner last week. I'd say that's pretty good for a "cheap" bike.
 

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Ready to go on a Highland Birl. It's already done 1500 miles on a Berlin birl a d is at 2.5k with no problems bar the lost chain tensioner last week. I'd say that's pretty good for a "cheap" bike.

Any stretching in the chain ?

Quite tempted to swap to a new DID chain when I come back from Spain next month
 
Regarding an adjuster bolt. I haven’t got RE Himmy 450 or any RE product.

It be inclined to think that the black cap does go over a swinging arm end with a bolt going through it into the captive chain adjuster writhing the swinging arm.
The hex head bolt therefore is only tightened against the resistance from the swinging arm cap.

I’d be inclined to resolve this issue this way.

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  • Remove the chain adjustment bolt and the end cap.
  • Slip apropriatly tensioned and of correct length spring over the bolt threads. Similarly how this spring is slipped over the pen led.
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  • Replace the end cap and a bolt over the swinging arm. You may need to apply a fair pit of pressure to compress the spring and to engage the bolt threads with the adjuster.
The spring over the bolt should in theory maintain pressure between the chain adjuster and the inner face of the end cap. This in turn should prevent the bolt from working itself loose and eventually bouncing down the road into the hedgerow or worse in to the path of a fellow bikermate who might end up with a puncture…
 


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