Autocom Pro 300 PROBLEMS

[gsbiker]

Had this problem from day one and now have 2nd problem.

1st Problem
When listening to music the VOX keeps randomly damping the music. This happens whether I'm riding my bike or just testing in my garage. The mic is currently removed but problem continues. VOX level is turned to soft and MP3 is plugged into Aux 2. I have the background noise sensor inserted according to the manual and this seems to work well in that as I ride faster the music volume increases. Seems that the problem is with VOX! As the music started to dampen again tonight whilst in the garage I saw the VOX green light on every time when I have this problem.

2nd Problem
Just bought Garmin Lead 2820 as recommended by BMW to connect the audio out from my Nav3 so I can hear GPS instructions. The instructions says use 2.5mm jack with RED tab for GPS, the other lead is for MP3 out from Garmin 2820 which I don't have on the Nav3. Anyways, the GPS audio only plays my left ear. I know it's a mono lead but surely it should play through both speakers right? Switched to the spare MP3 lead instead and the GPS audio plays through my right ear. As I'm listening to music the blimmin VOX keeps kicking in randomly depending on the song. When VOX kicks in the GPS plays through both speakers, VOX turns off and GPS returns playback in one speaker.

I'm starting to think I have a duff unit! Anyone know what this could be please?

 

[beemerboy9]

I hope GSRich can shed some light on the first problem. I don't know how the system reacts to having the microphone removed.


I am surprised that Ocean told you to buy the 2820 lead to hook up the NavIII. If you intend to connect a mobile phone to the NavIII, I would have said to buy bluetooth dongle Autocom part 1273 if your Aux 1 port is powered (denoted by tiny blue sticker) or part 1276 if it is not powered.
Basically the NavIII was intended to be used with the ill-fated 1st-generation of Bluetooth System 5 helmets (the 2009 2nd-generation bluetooth is much improved apparently).
If you don't want to connect a phone, but just want GPS instructions then GS Rich will advise what leads you need - a 1282 + 1294, I believe.

 

[gsbiker]

I hope GSRich can shed some light on the first problem. I don't know how the system reacts to having the microphone removed.


I am surprised that Ocean told you to buy the 2820 lead to hook up the NavIII. If you intend to connect a mobile phone to the NavIII, I would have said to buy bluetooth dongle Autocom part 1273 if your Aux 1 port is powered (denoted by tiny blue sticker) or part 1276 if it is not powered.
Basically the NavIII was intended to be used with the ill-fated 1st-generation of Bluetooth System 5 helmets (the 2009 2nd-generation bluetooth is much improved apparently).
If you don't want to connect a phone, but just want GPS instructions then GS Rich will advise what leads you need - a 1282 + 1294, I believe.

Thanks beemerboy9

Can't see a blue sticker on Aux1. I have been thinking of getting the bluetooth dongle for my phone, If I had that would I also get GPS instructions via bluetooth or just phone?

 

[GSrich]

Had this problem from day one and now have 2nd problem.

1st Problem
When listening to music the VOX keeps randomly damping the music. This happens whether I'm riding my bike or just testing in my garage. The mic is currently removed but problem continues. VOX level is turned to soft and MP3 is plugged into Aux 2. I have the background noise sensor inserted according to the manual and this seems to work well in that as I ride faster the music volume increases. Seems that the problem is with VOX! As the music started to dampen again tonight whilst in the garage I saw the VOX green light on every time when I have this problem.

2nd Problem
Just bought Garmin Lead 2820 as recommended by BMW to connect the audio out from my Nav3 so I can hear GPS instructions. The instructions says use 2.5mm jack with RED tab for GPS, the other lead is for MP3 out from Garmin 2820 which I don't have on the Nav3. Anyways, the GPS audio only plays my left ear. I know it's a mono lead but surely it should play through both speakers right? Switched to the spare MP3 lead instead and the GPS audio plays through my right ear. As I'm listening to music the blimmin VOX keeps kicking in randomly depending on the song. When VOX kicks in the GPS plays through both speakers, VOX turns off and GPS returns playback in one speaker.

I'm starting to think I have a duff unit! Anyone know what this could be please?

Problem A, Are you plugged into the riders lead? Also you can set the VOX on a harder setting by turning it anti clockwise.

Problem B the part 1298 is designed for the 2820 NOT the Nav III as the BMW cradle covers one ofthe 2.5mm jack plug sockets. Our Parts 1294 and 1285 will connect the GPS side of it. If you are wanting to run the phone via the Nav III either a Part 1273 or 1276 would be needed all depending on how old your system is.

Rich

 

[gsbiker]

Problem A, Are you plugged into the riders lead? Also you can set the VOX on a harder setting by turning it anti clockwise.

Problem B the part 1298 is designed for the 2820 NOT the Nav III as the BMW cradle covers one ofthe 2.5mm jack plug sockets. Our Parts 1294 and 1285 will connect the GPS side of it. If you are wanting to run the phone via the Nav III either a Part 1273 or 1276 would be needed all depending on how old your system is.

Rich

Just spoke to Oceon and they never ordered or fitted Parts 1294 and 1285 for Nav3 before. They used different part number to connect to bike to bike socket in the past. No problem they are ordering those 2 parts from you today - hopefully for delivery tomorrow

Regarding the VOX problem, just an update, GSrich says it might be a voltage drop when heavy base is playing through Autocom. I used scotch connector to make a split in the power lead for quick release and it might be that causing it, so I will sort this out later today and let you know.

And if Wapping reads this he's probably going to say "told you so". But I never got round to it

 

[Wapping]

And if Wapping reads this he's probably going to say "told you so". But I never got round to it

The lack of a round tuit is a common problem.

I'll just settle for asking what heavy base is?

I found a light one:

 

[gsbiker]

The lack of a round tuit is a common problem.

I'll just settle for asking what heavy base is?

I found a light one:

Heavy base is a track that is base heavy in rhythm. Each song / album has a base and treble colouring and some have more base than others typically dance music. Anyways I re-soldered and the damping problem with VOX has now gone. And would you beleive it I got the 2820 cable to work also - now GPS playback in both speakers.

Problem 3
I now have some slight crackling from my right speaker. Could this be caused by poor connection or water in the cable?

Problem 4
I've also noticed that I can hear my bike ticking over through the speakers when VOX kicks in when my daughter speaks when stationery. Is this normal?

 

[gsbiker]

O and lastly, not really a problem but if only Autocom provided better stereo speakers for music lovers perhaps as an optional extra replacement - I'm listening to a good pair of Bose headphones at the moment and the quality is superb!

Maybe an idea for the future Autocom

 

[beemerboy9]

And would you beleive it I got the 2820 cable to work also - now GPS playback in both speakers.

I would believe it - but the 2820 cable is overkill because you can only use the GPS output side of it and not the microphone part of the cable. 1294+1282 would have been the correct (and cheapest) solution for GPS only

Problem 3
I now have some slight crackling from my right speaker. Could this be caused by poor connection or water in the cable?

Is the autocom earthed to the battery negative terminal? Poor soldered joint?

Problem 4
I've also noticed that I can hear my bike ticking over through the speakers when VOX kicks in when my daughter speaks when stationery. Is this normal?

Since the 2820 cable (part 1298) is fully isolated for ground loop interference, I wonder if this another sign of a poor earth.

 

[gsbiker]

I would believe it - but the 2820 cable is overkill because you can only use the GPS output side of it and not the microphone part of the cable. 1294+1282 would have been the correct (and cheapest) solution for GPS only



Is the autocom earthed to the battery negative terminal? Poor soldered joint?


Since the 2820 cable (part 1298) is fully isolated for ground loop interference, I wonder if this another sign of a poor earth.

You know what, I used the blue earth eyelet in the box - but only crimped it

Dam it - have to sort that one out also - cheers

PS: the cost of 1294 + 1282 was same price as the 2820 cable!

 

[Achim]

Heavy base is a track that is base heavy in rhythm.

NOW I get it: heavy base (sic) is heavy bass, as in bass and treble. Baseball has nothing to do with it, and that picture was of home base anyway

I suppose you also apply your "breaks" when you need to slow down?

Achim

 

[gsbiker]

I suppose you also apply your "breaks" when you need to slow down?

What???

edit: O I missed that - yeah my mistake! In my defense I am dyslexic!

 

[gsbiker]

I have a duffer Autocom unit!

I thought the problems were solved but riding my bike yesterday proved not to be. The VOX cutting the music volume by 50% randomly continues to happen and now there's alot of intermittent crackling and even worse I keep losing playback through my right speaker - it goes static when this occurs. Checked the wires, my main lead (rider) may be the problem with the crackling as it happens when I twist the cable one way, have no idea what the music volume keeps dropping 50% though - gets worse and more consistent when iPod music is turned up on the iPod - which is needed when you have ear plugs in!!!

This unit is going back!

 

[Wapping]

Are you 100% sure it's the unit, not the assorted wires between it, the peripherals (GPS, Ipod etc) and the speakers by your ears?

I would have a look at the simple things first. For instance, the short lead, terminated by a female 7 pin din, that runs from the loom in the helmet connecting to the longer lead (the one that runs from the female 7 pin din, down by your nads). The short lead can break internally if it flaps about and result in just the problems you have encountered. I think I may have mentioned it in an earlier reply to you? Mine has just started to break up, again. It's the second in over 70k miles, so not too bad.

Try stripping off all the peripherals and riding about with just one pure source, say voice instructions from your Nav III. Jiggle the wires about. I guess you are twisting the lead leading to the helmet to make the sound drop in and out? That sounds like a lead or connection problem, possibly?

The problem with Vox is often user error. The setting of the sensitivity, the wrong positioning of the sensor, helmet draft, visor open...... Maybe it's time for a professional installation from Ocean for £70?

Last of all, maybe (with very good reason) it simply doesn't like heavy base (sic) and has gone into a sulk?

 

[gsbiker]

Are you 100% sure it's the unit, not the assorted wires between it, the peripherals (GPS, Ipod etc) and the speakers by your ears?
The VOX problem has been like it from day 1 with only an iPod connected. I removed the mic thinking it might the cause but no. I'm saying it's VOX but it could well be something else! Worse when iPod volume is turned up - IE more frequent 50% drop in volume.

I would have a look at the simple things first. For instance, the short lead, terminated by a female 7 pin din, that runs from the loom in the helmet connecting to the longer lead (the one that runs from the female 7 pin din, down by your nads). The short lead can break internally if it flaps about and result in just the problems you have encountered. I think I may have mentioned it in an earlier reply to you? Mine has just started to break up, again. It's the second in over 70k miles, so not too bad.
I've done at a guess no more than 200 miles, if that! 2nd Rideout with my daughter yesterday, half way and then I get lots of crackling and lose my right ear playback altogether - replaced with white noise. All playback from intercoms, GPS and iPod was through left speaker only. This resolved itself a couple miles later then went again. We checked the cables - unplugged and plugged back in - same problem. Only my right ear peice not working but my daughter could hear crackling also. The other day I heard faint crackling in my right ear piece - now I realise it was the start of a fault.

Try stripping off all the peripherals and riding about with just one pure source, say voice instructions from your Nav III. Jiggle the wires about. I guess you are twisting the lead leading to the helmet to make the sound drop in and out? That sounds like a lead or connection problem, possibly?
I twisted the cable - Loom side - which caused the crackling again more so than just twisting the extension lead side.

The problem with Vox is often user error. The setting of the sensitivity, the wrong positioning of the sensor, helmet draft, visor open...... Maybe it's time for a professional installation from Ocean for £70?
Not keen on spending another £70 - this is not rocket science - the crackling and losing all volume from right speaker replaced with white noise is a fault somewhere rather than user error I think. And the blimming volume dropping off doesn't seem song related as first thought - its completely random. I thought it might be the helmet sensor but when the volume drops off it drops about 50% and then fades back. The helmet sensor would just fade up and down surely?

Last of all, maybe (with very good reason) it simply doesn't like heavy base (sic) and has gone into a sulk?
Well it better get used to it cause the main reason I bought this Autocom was for music playback although I am disappointed with playback quality from the speakers - thin and tinny!

 

[Coolcarbon]

I think that your going to struggle to get any sort of 'Heavy Base' from speakers in a helmet, the loses are always going to be too great.

The only way you'll get round this is to go the 'in-ear' custom moulded monitor route.

This of course does not help you with all the other problems you're encountering right now....

 

[gsbiker]

I think that your going to struggle to get any sort of 'Heavy Base' from speakers in a helmet, the loses are always going to be too great.

The only way you'll get round this is to go the 'in-ear' custom moulded monitor route.

This of course does not help you with all the other problems you're encountering right now....

Yeah although I would like better sound (perhaps more hi fi like) I'm not really complaining about that - I just want it to do what it says it should do.

 

[Wapping]

OK dokey.

I'm just trying to think how mine works. It's awkward when it does work as one doesn't take too much notice of it, nor do I trouble myself with too much 'Music on the move'.

From memory, only:

The music fades in volume, automatically, if an instruction comes in from the GPS. The drop is significant and it fades back up.

I can't remember what happens when I talk (transmit) through the microphone, I think the music fades down, too.

Similarly, if a telephone call comes in I think the music fades down. In short, I think music is secondary to everything else.

The Vox system (as far as I recall) only stops the system 'opening' in response to wind noise. If it is set too high (or too low, depending on which way it works) it opens, leading to a white noise type of 'shuuuusssh' that will drown everything else out. The white noise is also transmitted, in that you can hear it over bike-to-bike radios, when someone does not have theirs set properly. From memory, it also re-sets, leading to a 'Tick-tick-tick-tick' noise of an open channel, with nothing going down it. I think you commented that you heard a tickover type sound? Forgive me if it was someone else, or another thread. If the wind is opening the Vox, that may lead to the fading as it is interpreting the noise as speech.

I am a bit confused by the crackling you get when you twist the loom. I guess you mean the loom in your or your daughter's helmet, as opposed to the loom of wires on the bike? If the sound or crackles appear when you are touching / twisting the loom it may (or may not) indicate a fault there and nowhere else, perhaps?

The sound from the Autocom speakers is never going to be concert hall quality, constrained as they are by the helmet, the gaps inside the helmet, the closeness / position of one's lugholes, the volume being sought, ear plugs (if worn), wind and machine noise. If base - loud and proud - is what you want, in-ear monitors are the way to go. But these are wasted until you sort out the base-ic problems of getting the whole lot to work in happy harmony.

The Autocom boxes themselves seem remarkably reliable, considering the ill treatment they suffer just from being pounded up and down on a motorcycle. I would be surprised (it does happen) if it is at fault. The reason? There are so many other wires, looms, plugs, power sources and other variables as possibilities. That being said, of course it is possible you have a duff 'un.

Do you have a friendly bike you can drop it into to try? Or can you get onto another motorbike with an Autocom that is known to be OK, so you can try your helmets etc? It's a quick way of eliminating (or confirming) possible problems, if nothing else.

 

[gsbiker]

The music fades in volume, automatically, if an instruction comes in from the GPS. The drop is significant and it fades back up.
This is very similar to my problem, the audio significantly drops but no hissing or sound is heard then it fades back up.

The Vox system (as far as I recall) only stops the system 'opening' in response to wind noise. If it is set too high (or too low, depending on which way it works) it opens, leading to a white noise type of 'shuuuusssh' that will drown everything else out. The white noise is also transmitted, in that you can hear it over bike-to-bike radios, when someone does not have theirs set properly. From memory, it also re-sets, leading to a 'Tick-tick-tick-tick' noise of an open channel, with nothing going down it. I think you commented that you heard a tickover type sound? Forgive me if it was someone else, or another thread. If the wind is opening the Vox, that may lead to the fading as it is interpreting the noise as speech.
Yes I know what you mean but when music drops nothing else is heard except quieter music.

I am a bit confused by the crackling you get when you twist the loom. I guess you mean the loom in your or your daughter's helmet, as opposed to the loom of wires on the bike? If the sound or crackles appear when you are touching / twisting the loom it may (or may not) indicate a fault there and nowhere else, perhaps?
No the loom socket where the ext lead plugs into under my seat.

If base - loud and proud - is what you want, in-ear monitors are the way to go. But these are wasted until you sort out the base-ic problems of getting the whole lot to work in happy harmony.
Are these compatible with the Autocom system?

The Autocom boxes themselves seem remarkably reliable, considering the ill treatment they suffer just from being pounded up and down on a motorcycle. I would be surprised (it does happen) if it is at fault. The reason? There are so many other wires, looms, plugs, power sources and other variables as possibilities. That being said, of course it is possible you have a duff 'un.
I really hope it's something simple but I'm the guy who nearly always ends up with the duff ones

Do you have a friendly bike you can drop it into to try? Or can you get onto another motorbike with an Autocom that is known to be OK, so you can try your helmets etc? It's a quick way of eliminating (or confirming) possible problems, if nothing else.
I'm planning on taking my bike down to BMW this week for them to see, although it's not booked in at their workshop @ £70ph, it'll just be a listen in session in the car park.

 

[Wapping]

Are in-ear monitors compatible? Yes. Ultimate Ear and Green Leopard are popular choices and you may get a discount as a UKGSer member. Contact Judge or Schiannini, both of this parish.

You will need an adaptor to make them work. I forget the part number.

Autocom sell the adaptor, naturally. They are also starting to sell a (better) adaptor loom, I forget the part number for that, too. I chatted with Richard at the Excel show and ordered a pre-production version. Give them a call.

From all that you tell us, I suspect a very simple fault in the external wiring of your Autocom. By-and-large they are rock solid reliable once they are set up and wired in properly. The ultimate plug and forget, really.

Take care.