Average clutch life 1100GS ?

1150 clutch

1150 more or less the same as 1100. (?)
2001RT-182K
2003GSA-178K
2003RT-141K
2001GSA-161K
(KM;not miles)

ca.80% long distance touring.
Same clutch,no problem.
 
at my rate of riding I should have about a decade of riding left in the original clutch then, providing nothing sinister cuts its life short.
 
My own experience....changed the clutch at 60k in preparation for a long trip. Friction material starts at 6mm and it was down to 4mm and looked good for another 60k. Afterwards the clutch did feel "lighter" at the lever...maybe because of the new diaphragm spring.
 
My 1100 clutch was still good at 167000. I changed it as I had the box off for new bearings.
100000 on the new clutch and no problems.
Micky hit the nail on the head.
It's down to how you use it.
Its also important to keep it adjusted correctly.
If it rattles from the right hand side its likely to be a worn throttle body.
If it has its original gearbox its likely to need a rebuild at some point.
Problems usually show when accelerating in 3rd gear or a gold metallic sheen in drained gearbox oil.

Good luck.;)

Reading this like you have 267,000 on your 11? Or did you change it at 67,000?
 
Hi All,
Just got my first GS, its an 1100 oilhead 96 vintage with 69k on the clock, Im just wondering if it is still likely to be on its original clutch? what sort of mileage can you expect from one? It has been regularly serviced but I only have the stamps in the service book and not all the receipts for what was actually carried out, plus the garage that did the past few years work are no longer trading so no chance of finding out. Is there anything in particular that needs checking out on a bike of this age and mileage?
Im intending to do all the servicing on it myself and Im quite interested in knowing the weak areas that need closer attention, any info much appreciated!
Steve.
Welcome!

+1 for proper brake lines.

Changing gears can be smoother if you preload the gear leaver before shifting!
 
Changed at 167000. Got 267000 on now.
Had a long distance commute for years. Soon mounts up.;)

Casper,
That's impressive, you should start a thread on the history of your bike of how it felt through its life and what work, changes and improvements were done, when and why.
I'm sure you'd have a story or two to keep us informed and entertained, I know I would.
Pablo
 
Casper,
That's impressive, you should start a thread on the history of your bike of how it felt through its life and what work, changes and improvements were done, when and why.
I'm sure you'd have a story or two to keep us informed and entertained, I know I would.
Pablo

+1

I'd love to hear about it too. Love high-mileage stories - very inspirational and sort of comforting, given my own intent to become an owner this year. :thumb2
 
+1

I'd love to hear about it too. Love high-mileage stories - very inspirational and sort of comforting, given my own intent to become an owner this year. :thumb2

My mates old 1150GS . 300K+ MILES . Despatched all it's life then broken for spares back in 2006 when it was only 4 years old :eek: He bought an RT.

It was running all ok but he just couldn't sell it with that mileage. Still had original engine but had a couple of gearbox rebuilds and the final drive/swingarm was off a K1 and altered to fit the 1150 if i remember correctly.

I learnt a lot from servicing and working on that bike as it showed what to look out for on customers bikes and prevent problems rather than wait for the problems to develop. :D .

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2002 1150GS: at 65000 miles i lubed my splines. Since I had to open it up I bought all the clutch parts before I opened it up. That was really a waste of money. The clutch was not even a third worn thru. That was despite that I had the clutch smoking a few times and stinking more then a few times on some of the tougher Colorado tracks. These clutches are tough. As others mentioned a leaking clutch slave is more dangerous to clutch life then anything else. Replacing it every 60k-70k miles is pretty cheap insurance. FWIW.

BTW, if you have to open it up: it seems daunting before you get into it the first time, but once you start it really isn't bad at all. Just like what everybody else told me beforehand.
 
+1

I'd love to hear about it too. Love high-mileage stories - very inspirational and sort of comforting, given my own intent to become an owner this year. :thumb2

I mentioned some of its history in this thread.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/345259-Survey-of-high-milage-1100s

Apart from the dropped valve its been pretty much trouble free.
It uses no oil between changes.
It has always been run on a quality 20w50 usually Millers Classic Sport.
I change the bevel box oil every 6k with the engine oil.
Valve clearances rarely ever moved between services.

The throttle bodies I had rebushed by Scriminger.
I eventually replaced them for a pair of the later bodies with the separate cable set up.
The headlamp isnt up to much so I fitted the usual extra lights.
I rebuilt the starter in 2014 after enjoying myself too much in the floods.
Tyres almost all original Tourance.
I dabbled occasionally with others but always went back to these.
I averaged around 10k for a rear , a bit more from a front.

It hasnt had much use the last couple of years as I bought a 1200RT.
I also dont have a big daily commute now.
I think the key to trouble free big miles is simply to use them.
Most reasonably modern bikes if used for regular long runs will clock up big mileages.
Probably the best BMW for what I was doing would have been a K75, but I like twins.
I also have put 200k on a r100 and 150k on an evo Harley. Both with few problems.

If you do a search for Hank on Advrider he has over 500k on a 1100GS.
Hope this helps. :thumb
 
I think I may have jinxed my bike by starting this thread, I have done about 1100 miles in the last couple of months and the bike is showing just over 70 k, I was riding it yesterday and just a few times the revs ran away as if the clutch was slipping. However I took it out for a ride later in the day and it seemed fine, However if I rev it in top at about 50-60 mph then drop the clutch it fails to bite until I back off the throttle. I know this is total clutch abuse but the bike is under warranty and I don't want to find out just after its expired that my clutch has failed.
After a hard ride I could smell the clutch too so I'm fairly sure it on its way out, just seems strange that it only slips now and then during normal riding, normally during hard acceleration in 3rd or 4 th.
Do these clutches normally fail very gradually? Do you think I should get it booked in for a clutch or ride it a bit more to prove one way or the other?
There is still three months warranty left so not desperate yet and the bike shop have already said they are happy to replace it if it's really gone.
 
If the dealer is willing and it's under warranty just get it sorted now, by the dealer. You'll then have time after the work to make sure all is well, within the warranty period... That's what I would do
 
If the dealer is willing and it's under warranty just get it sorted now, by the dealer. You'll then have time after the work to make sure all is well, within the warranty period... That's what I would do

Just want to be 100% sure that the clutch has really failed, the bike shop involved are a small independent outfit who are local to me and are a really good bunch of guys. Don't want to burden them with a large and expensive job until I'm sure it's really necessary.
 
Just want to be 100% sure that the clutch has really failed, the bike shop involved are a small independent outfit who are local to me and are a really good bunch of guys. Don't want to burden them with a large and expensive job until I'm sure it's really necessary.
That's a considerate way to look at it, which not everyone does! Which is a shame... But I know what you mean, I'd be thinking in the same way.

How about taking off the starter motor and seeing what you can of the clutch thickness. Then perhaps get someone else to ride it to see if they can match your experience of the slippage. Basically try to narrow it down to just the clutch, so you have few doubts.

The worst case is, it's you who gets lumbered paying out to fix a 'new to you' machine just weeks after the warranty is up. And your dealer seems to be open to fixing it ahead of that. Which sounds very reasonable.
 
Have you checked the clutch cable adjustment and that nothing is preventing the lever from fully returning?

If it's slipping it's only going to be caused by incorrect adjustment, worn clutch or oil on clutch plate.....
 


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