Bike cutting out and quite violent misfire (1150gsa)

Lumpy

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Hi . Had a run out yesterday and the bike cut out numerous times .twice when pulling away from lights and then at a junction. when moving, quite a violent misfire and nearly had me of on a big roundabout, three big misfires one after another . :eek:. Went to go out about a month back and the battery was dead . I've had it on the optimate but it had been of for the week previous , bike started ok but I know its about had it , just last year it had a fuel filter and I did replace a coil stick
Any thoughts on this.
Cheers Lump
 
Cables ?

Have you had the tank off or raised, perhaps to charge the battery ? If so please check the seating of the throttle cables on the right side of the bike.
 
One cool stick replaced. The other is likely to be going the same way.

If the battery has cells shorting they could drop the system voltage enough to stall the ECU.

Wire in a cheap digital voltmeter on the dash/bars. The battery with engine off should give 12.5 volts with 13.8 to 14.1 running.
 
If the battery is dropping out then wouldn't the clock reset as an obvious check? Wouldn't you have starting issues too? Sounds like you're only getting the symptoms when you're moving too - I'm assuming it's ticking over ok and you can rev it at standstill?

It sounds like intermittent total ignition failure - HES probably. Mine was doing something this but it turned out to be one of the connectors to the coil - they sit in the connector but mine had snapped inside and gave intermittent fail till it went completely. Obviously the backfires are because the fuel is still being pumped into the chambers - another sign of the battery being active and the fuel pump running ok.

Good luck anyway - I HATE things like this. I wish they'd just fail totally so you could just get on and sort it!
 
I had a cutting out problem on my 1100 and had the HES replaced only to find it was a broken wire from the ignition.
 
Had a similar problem, also turned out to be work hardened broken wires around headstock to ignition switch.
 
Had a similar problem, also turned out to be work hardened broken wires around headstock to ignition switch.

Same here - I replaced the little ignition switch loom section.

Lumpy - try turning the bars lock to lock and / or wiggling the wiring coming from the ignition switch with the bike idling. As others have said, it could also be other things such as the HES but it's quite easy to rule out the switch wiring.
 
Went to go out about a month back and the battery was dead .

A favoured theory of mine that by not changing a dodgy battery you put an undue stress on the electronics and the sensors are known to suffer badly from voltage surges! Hence a common factor in HES failures probably 18 out of 20 that I have changed is a dodgy battery! (2 were dodgy starters that drew all the current to spin the bike over again placing a heavy load on the electronics)

Simple things first !


First thing If it starts okay and revs okay when cold ?????? (cue The Cable thingy pic someone)


Second thing I would do is inspect the fuel tank filler drain hole! Its about 9 o'clock when you sit on the bike (with the cap lifted of course! :rob:) If its blocked ??? and when you lift the cap when you have been out when its raining or after washing, have you had water disappear down the main tank filler? If yes then you probably have water in the tank Drain Tank Change filter and Clean out the drain hole Be very very careful here because if you blow up from below with an airline you can blow the hose inside the tank off and If you poke the shite downwards you can compact it A bit of mig wire wound around something like a 2mm drill to make a mini auger is pretty good then you screw it through the dirt

Third thing is the little Ign loom as suggested by others It runs from the base of the Ignition switch round the left side of the head stock to connect under the tank You may find the green wire merely hanging literally on by a thread

If that all checks out okay I think

Number 1 Replace the battery and test ride BUT not too far from home

If okay then good stretch the range a little bit but still with a recovery option from a mate

IF you noticed the Revcounter flicking all over the place whilst its misbehaving then 90% sure its the HES

Buy New ones and Keep a GOOD fresh battery in the bike You shouldn't need to have it on an Optimate ALL the time
 
Thanks Lads for all your help , I've long days at work I'll get in the garage on Saturday morn and have a look . Ta
 
If the above suggestions prove fruitless have a look at my thread as I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the link pipe inside the tank.
 
Hi . Just bought a hall sensor (eBay ) . I'm going to fit it myself , any one got advice ????
 
Hi . Just bought a hall sensor (eBay ) . I'm going to fit it myself , any one got advice ????

Just make sure to torque the crank bolt up properly when you put it all back. I didn't once:rolleyes: 3 hour wait for the AA. And get some superglue to fix the timing ring onto the pulley - it helps with reassembly
 
Thanks for all the posts , me and my brother fitted a new hall sensor ....... All good ... Bike is pulling great and v smooth ��happy now ...........
 


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