Bike ran yesterday now nothing.

ApUhtred

ApUhtred

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Bike ran yesterday all ok. Come to it this morning and went to start and as the screen started to come to life it all suddenly went dead. Now nothing at all. Messed about for an hour or so and decided to try again and bike started. Bike running voltage 14.3 and standing voltage 12.3 which I would have said was OK. Now all running great after half a dozen starts. Two things to note. As screen started to light up I pressed the start button. Do not normally do that but first thing in the morning I did. It all died from that point. Second thing is I have had this bike for two years and never had even one problem. This means I have never had to find the fuse box. It's a 2019 GSA so can someone point me in the right direction. Yes I know how dumb are you but it's not behind either side panel or under the seat.

Regards Steve
 
There's a fuse holder on the RHS by the front seat mounting point, which contains the main fuse for the bike. Again everything else is "fused" by the canbus system so there's no individual fuses as such for things like the lights, horn, heated grips etc. As above 1st suspect woukd be the battery if it the OE one20251002_101717.jpg
 
Take off the black plastic battery housing cover, RHS by your knee, single small Torx screw (about T20/T25).

Lift off the rubber strap securing the battery in its tray and slide the battery towards you.

Check both battery terminals are securely tightened with a 10mm spanner.

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
 
FWIW perhaps you could read my previous thread about the water cooled GS/GSA batteries, and my recommendation to fit an expensive but high performance Hybrid battery:

Pukmeister

Thread 'Big pile of dogshit'

Why oh why did I trade my hex head for a 1250. Currently sat at my local Sainsburys petrol forecourt with a bike that yet again won’t restart, awaiting BMW assist to message me with a time to attend. I’ve only ridden the bloody thing twelve miles home, I wish I hadn’t stopped to get petrol. Got a euro trip planned next month, I have zero faith in this turd.


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I've always thought that the 'resting' voltage of a 12v battery...( i.e. it's not been discharged or charged for an hour or so)... should be 12.6 V. So, it could be a bad battery. But you really need to stick a load on it and then measure the voltage... it the load pulls the voltage down too far... it's defo bad.
 
Batterys are consumables, they will fail t

The majority around there expected life range , a percentage will go way past the expected life cycle & certain percent will fail early

but sure as eggs are eggs they dont last for ever

Living on a tender, knowing Starmers next door neighbour, being a premium brand , all count for nought, its a consumable, and will fail at the most inopportune moment , of that you can be sure
 
Pukmeister said:
Take off the black plastic battery housing cover, RHS by your knee, single small Torx screw (about T20/T25).

Lift off the rubber strap securing the battery in its tray and slide the battery towards you.

Check both battery terminals are securely tightened with a 10mm spanner.

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Click to expand...
Negative terminal was not fully tight so sorted that and replaced battery. Started first time. Gone back an hour later and bloody thing turned over and died back to square one. Will replace battery. UASA YTX14 BS is coming up would we say that is correct ?
 
Maybe something then again maybe nothing, but as you tried starting before check on bike had completed, I wonder if that may have something to do with a non start?
Wizards on here will surely know.
Battery is a suspect, replace with a friends one, or get a garage to do a simple drain check, on existing battery out of the bike.
 
Last edited:
I'm with the collective, this sounds like a failing, probably sulphated battery, that has been left too long in a mid/low state of charge at some point. Those of us who have ever dabbled in used cars/bikes, machinery that has possibly been laid up for several months, will be all too familiar. These days I fit a new battery as a matter of course & factor the outlay into the cost of change calculation.

This is a useful guide from Varta, admittedly car oriented, with statistical data from ......... you guessed, Germany: -

Car Battery Testing Instructions | VARTA Automotive Batteries

Discover your car battery. How to test with guidance from VARTA®. ► Get instructions for checking battery health and performance now.
www.varta-automotive.com www.varta-automotive.com
 
ApUhtred said:
Negative terminal was not fully tight so sorted that and replaced battery. Started first time. Gone back an hour later and bloody thing turned over and died back to square one. Will replace battery. UASA YTX14 BS is coming up would we say that is correct ?
Click to expand...
I’d go for ( and I have fitted) This motobatt from Nippy Normans because its happened to me, twice, and I’d read Pukmeisters thread….but I let BMW assist sell me an OEM unit.
 
You can’t beat a lithium . Until it goes to sleep but thats an easy fix
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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