Hi, Anyone tried fitting a BMW lock cylinder kit to a Givi treker top box ?? Does it work?
BMW Lock cylinder Givi Treker
- Thread starter B11RGER
- Start date
Couple of posts regarding this and the general conclusion is it is not possible to swap the full lock cylinders , the key blanks are similar but the Givi locks are deeper and the keys longer ,also the BMW lock cylinder as used on the boxes have a different type of fitment on the bottom edge where it acts on top box mechanisms .
The only option might be to try and strip out a BMW lock and a Givi Treker lock and see if you can swap around tumblers so that the BMW key is coded into the Givi cylinder.
Might work or might mean that you end up with two buggered locks
The only option might be to try and strip out a BMW lock and a Givi Treker lock and see if you can swap around tumblers so that the BMW key is coded into the Givi cylinder.
Might work or might mean that you end up with two buggered locks
Thinking out loud. What would happen if the extra set of tumblers in the Give lock were removed? Could the 1st set be coded with the BMW key?
Who knows but I'm not willing to spend the money on a new BMW coded lock and a possibly a spare lock set for my Trekker (if it doesn't work) to find out, I'll let someone braver or richer to give it a go first
Thanks for your comments ��
ATG
Registered user
The BMW lock will not fit the GIVI hole as the BMW lock has a larger diameter.
I've managed to fit my 2016 BMW key to GIVI's lock and it works great.
First I've removed all blades and springs from GIVI's lock and with a small square file I adjusted the smaller GIVI's key hole to fit BMW's key. One should proceed with very slow and careful filling as the locks material is quite soft and its very easy to file too much.
After careful key adjustment I tryed all combinations and had to do some filling on each of blades untill it worked. Its not too hard to do it but requires a bit of patience.
I've managed to fit my 2016 BMW key to GIVI's lock and it works great.
First I've removed all blades and springs from GIVI's lock and with a small square file I adjusted the smaller GIVI's key hole to fit BMW's key. One should proceed with very slow and careful filling as the locks material is quite soft and its very easy to file too much.
After careful key adjustment I tryed all combinations and had to do some filling on each of blades untill it worked. Its not too hard to do it but requires a bit of patience.
charliehorse
Registered user
Hi ATG
Did you get your BMW key to actually lock and unlock the Givi case?
You are using the Givi lock upgrades, (givi SL10) right?
Have a 58l outback Trekker coming and would like to do this.
Charlie
Did you get your BMW key to actually lock and unlock the Givi case?
You are using the Givi lock upgrades, (givi SL10) right?
Have a 58l outback Trekker coming and would like to do this.
Charlie
roamer
Registered user
The bmw key can be made to fit the givi lock cylinder, as mentioned byATG,
It requires making the slot wider after fully dismantling the barrel,which is fiddly,
The wafers do work with the bmw key, using less than givi but the same number as bmw,
I have done this on 2 trekker outback boxes, works perfectly,
There was another thread on this, you dont need a new lock barrel, unless you sell the box,
Roamer
It requires making the slot wider after fully dismantling the barrel,which is fiddly,
The wafers do work with the bmw key, using less than givi but the same number as bmw,
I have done this on 2 trekker outback boxes, works perfectly,
There was another thread on this, you dont need a new lock barrel, unless you sell the box,
Roamer
charliehorse
Registered user
Thanks Roamer,
Found the info on here and on advrider.
Looks good for a wet night project.
Probably need one of those SL101 type barrels if it is not on the case already.
Any Givi boxes I had used the teeth type key and not the channel type.
Found the info on here and on advrider.
Looks good for a wet night project.
Probably need one of those SL101 type barrels if it is not on the case already.
Any Givi boxes I had used the teeth type key and not the channel type.
roamer
Registered user
Provided you can fit the barrel with the inner groove it should be ok,
It doesnt matter about key length, just put wafers in to match the key,
It took arund 40 minutes to strip modify and re build, just be carefull with the stainless outer cover,
Roamer
It doesnt matter about key length, just put wafers in to match the key,
It took arund 40 minutes to strip modify and re build, just be carefull with the stainless outer cover,
Roamer
charliehorse
Registered user
Managed to get that job done this evening with my "keyless" key and Givi Trekker 58L lock.
This is what I did if anyone else wants to give it a go.
Remove the lock from the box and dismantle.
Be careful of the small springs under the stainless cover as Roamer said. They fly a long way for their size...
Pull out all the wafers and their small springs. A light tug with a plyers does the job. Watch the springs..
When it is all dismantled, the BMW key will not fit the Givi barrel.
After I filed the entrance hole, I had to file all the guides inside the full length of the barrel.
Doesn't take long but you have to be careful not to take too much meat and leaving the key loose.
I used a Dremel with a small diamond bit and a bright light gradually working the key down along the guides inside of the barrel.
The BMW key will eventually fit in the Givi barrel nearly to its stops.
Try wafers in the slots trying the key so all the wafers are flush with the barrel outer with the key in place. This is trial and error.
You then have to put in the small springs and the key to make sure all the wafers are still flush with the outside of the barrel.
Spring tension makes the wafers end up in a different position than without tension so they can end up not flush with the barrel.
I think this is because the Givi key slot is slightly narrower that the BMW slot giving more play on the wafers with the BMW key.
You can try it in the metal cylinder to make sure it locks and unlocks smoothly.
I managed to get all but one wafer back in. Some will be way out of size. (probably just luck) I dumped the stainless steel guide in the first slot.
I did cheat a bit by using some emery on the wafers that protruded a little to get a smooth action..
From reading previous posts, I understand that you don't have to get all the wafers back in. The more the merrier..
Cleaned the finished job with carb cleaner and reassembled. Watch the ball bearing and spring in the lock body.
Lining up the oval hole in the plate lock i a bit tricky.
A good shot of ACF50 and all was good.
As said before, not hard to do just a bit tedious but still one key in the pocket.
Have photos if anyone wants them.
Managed to get that job done this evening with my "keyless" key and Givi Trekker 58L lock.
This is what I did if anyone else wants to give it a go.
Remove the lock from the box and dismantle.
Be careful of the small springs under the stainless cover as Roamer said. They fly a long way for their size...
Pull out all the wafers and their small springs. A light tug with a plyers does the job. Watch the springs..
When it is all dismantled, the BMW key will not fit the Givi barrel.
After I filed the entrance hole, I had to file all the guides inside the full length of the barrel.
Doesn't take long but you have to be careful not to take too much meat and leaving the key loose.
I used a Dremel with a small diamond bit and a bright light gradually working the key down along the guides inside of the barrel.
The BMW key will eventually fit in the Givi barrel nearly to its stops.
Try wafers in the slots trying the key so all the wafers are flush with the barrel outer with the key in place. This is trial and error.
You then have to put in the small springs and the key to make sure all the wafers are still flush with the outside of the barrel.
Spring tension makes the wafers end up in a different position than without tension so they can end up not flush with the barrel.
I think this is because the Givi key slot is slightly narrower that the BMW slot giving more play on the wafers with the BMW key.
You can try it in the metal cylinder to make sure it locks and unlocks smoothly.
I managed to get all but one wafer back in. Some will be way out of size. (probably just luck) I dumped the stainless steel guide in the first slot.
I did cheat a bit by using some emery on the wafers that protruded a little to get a smooth action..
From reading previous posts, I understand that you don't have to get all the wafers back in. The more the merrier..
Cleaned the finished job with carb cleaner and reassembled. Watch the ball bearing and spring in the lock body.
Lining up the oval hole in the plate lock i a bit tricky.
A good shot of ACF50 and all was good.
As said before, not hard to do just a bit tedious but still one key in the pocket.
Have photos if anyone wants them.
Top job!
I really admire bods who do things like this - mainly because I can never be arsed!
yes it was all good until he put acf50 in the lock to gum it all up!
Thanks for the info.
Now - dare I give it a go
Now - dare I give it a go
charliehorse
Registered user
Didn't know that would happen..Oh well out with the carb cleaner again.
I would like to see the photos!
Yeah me to as I would like to fit a Trekker
I have a Trekker Outback on the way and would love to do this mod.
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