BMW Lock cylinder Givi Treker

[younger06]

Managed to get that job done this evening with my "keyless" key and Givi Trekker 58L lock.
This is what I did if anyone else wants to give it a go.
Remove the lock from the box and dismantle.
Be careful of the small springs under the stainless cover as Roamer said. They fly a long way for their size...
Pull out all the wafers and their small springs. A light tug with a plyers does the job. Watch the springs..
When it is all dismantled, the BMW key will not fit the Givi barrel.
After I filed the entrance hole, I had to file all the guides inside the full length of the barrel.
Doesn't take long but you have to be careful not to take too much meat and leaving the key loose.
I used a Dremel with a small diamond bit and a bright light gradually working the key down along the guides inside of the barrel.
The BMW key will eventually fit in the Givi barrel nearly to its stops.
Try wafers in the slots trying the key so all the wafers are flush with the barrel outer with the key in place. This is trial and error.
You then have to put in the small springs and the key to make sure all the wafers are still flush with the outside of the barrel.
Spring tension makes the wafers end up in a different position than without tension so they can end up not flush with the barrel.
I think this is because the Givi key slot is slightly narrower that the BMW slot giving more play on the wafers with the BMW key.
You can try it in the metal cylinder to make sure it locks and unlocks smoothly.
I managed to get all but one wafer back in. Some will be way out of size. (probably just luck) I dumped the stainless steel guide in the first slot.
I did cheat a bit by using some emery on the wafers that protruded a little to get a smooth action..
From reading previous posts, I understand that you don't have to get all the wafers back in. The more the merrier..
Cleaned the finished job with carb cleaner and reassembled. Watch the ball bearing and spring in the lock body.
Lining up the oval hole in the plate lock i a bit tricky.
A good shot of ACF50 and all was good.
As said before, not hard to do just a bit tedious but still one key in the pocket.
Have photos if anyone wants them.

Are you available for nixers ??

 

[charliehorse]

Hope the photo uploaded
Bottom photo shows the "keyhole".
That has to be filed or Dremeled to allow key in first.
The hook shaped bit at the bottom is a Dremeled guide.
I know it should be square but it works. A tiny square file would be neater
The piece behind is a wafer with the lug that fits into the slot in the key.
The guides all need filing to allow the key to fit fully into the barrel.
There are about five or six down the top and bottom inside of the barrel.
Top to photos show the wafers flush with the barrel in the key-in position.
Third shows the wafers extended in the key-out locked position.
This is just what I did so procede at your own risk

 

[charliehorse]

Bottom photo shows the bit I left out.
I filed it a bit but it doesn't have enough meat on it
Next up shos the ball bearing that sits on the spring.
Top two are the proof it worked

 

[roamer]

bmw key mod for givi trekker,

Nice job charlie horse,,
the window plate does file down, its for blocking key jigglers, , it won't cause issues without it, as long as you put 1 wafer in the end past the shear groove that will stop a screwdriver turning the barrel,
It is without doubt a fiddly process, but you get a 1 key bike which to some is of value,
I have done 4 now without problems,
Roamer,

 

[charliehorse]

Nice job charlie horse,,
the window plate does file down, its for blocking key jigglers, , it won't cause issues without it, as long as you put 1 wafer in the end past the shear groove that will stop a screwdriver turning the barrel,
It is without doubt a fiddly process, but you get a 1 key bike which to some is of value,
I have done 4 now without problems,
Roamer,

Thanks Roamer. Did not know what that part was for.
I did get three wafers in the end section so should be ok.

Hey Younger, If you are down my way, no prob giving you a hand.

 

[Hulladventurer]

A big thank you Charliehorse for taking the time to post this, I've just completed doing mine thanks to this post. It was a bit fiddly and took me a couple of hours ( I'm not the best or quickest with tools) but I got there in the end.
Thanks Kev

 

[harryweld]

Sorry meant to start new thread

 

[JonJamin]

Great Thread!

Nice job charlie horse,,
the window plate does file down, its for blocking key jigglers, , it won't cause issues without it, as long as you put 1 wafer in the end past the shear groove that will stop a screwdriver turning the barrel,
It is without doubt a fiddly process, but you get a 1 key bike which to some is of value,
I have done 4 now without problems,
Roamer,

I had removed the lock from my Vario box and was about to: machine the end of it to match the square and thread on the end of the Givi Lock, Open up the hole in the GiviLock Plate to accept the BWM barrel then I thought "someone must have done this" then found this thread. Excellent explanation, thanks. It took me around an hour and I don't have the anti-fiddle plate fitted but I do have 7 of the 9 wafers fitted so I'm happy with that..... Cheers!

 

[rjwojcik]

Thank you so much for those that had contributed to the thread.

I bought a Givi SL101 Single Security Lock Kit and the BMW cylinder pannier lock barrel. The latter just in case the BMW blades would fit the Givi barrel, but they don't. So in the end, I went for the mod detailed previously here, all good and one less key to carry around.