Boodly bolt

[tanneman]

In the process of removing the trim to get the rear shock out. BTW it is a 2014 GSA that I have had since it was a dealer bike.

To remove the rear shock it goes a bit like this,

Rear mudguard off
Rear wheel off
Mudsling off
Seats off
Control module up and out of the way
Unplug the 2 plugs that run to the shock
Remove the pannier scaffolding
Remove the carrier rack -this is where the snag is.
Remove the plastic bit
Remove the tray
Unbolt the shock
Carefully remove wiring and shock.

Was it that simple only for the bastard bolt to be seized right where you can't comfortably get a drill bit or easy out in. Cold chisel is not doing it, WD40 is a bit weak I think. I'm thinking about the grinder but the chances of damaging the rear carrier is not a risk I want to take.

Pic below of offending bastard bolt. It is no3 in the parts catalogue.

What to do?

 

[sutty]

Impact driver and a big hammer

 

[CPJS]

Hammer in the next size up torx bit and then use a impact driver

 

[blues n twos]

Wrong type of loctight might have been used

Not sure on that one

Hope you get the bugger out ok

 

[tanneman]

It is a T40, you can get a 1/4'' in there but not a 3/8''. T40 is the biggest 1/4'' torx I have.

 

[Rowle]

Put 2 hacksaw blades together and try and make a slot for a flat blade driver ?
Good luck.

 

[mikeyboy]

I see the bolt goes through the rack and has a spacer under it.
Just drill the head off the bolt,it needn’t be square on.
There should be enough left proud to get some mole grips on once the plastic trim is off.
If it still needs to be drilled out after everything is removed ,it can be ground flat and centre punched prior to drilling.

 

[Bubb]

Soak in plus gas or similar releasing spray (WD40 is NOT a releasing spray)... for 24 hours... then do it again for another 24 hours.
Then (as said before) hammer in the next size up torx bit, and use an impart driver or windy-gun to get it out.

Then have a LARGE beer to celebrate while you order a new bolt.

 

[tanneman]

I see the bolt goes through the rack and has a spacer under it.
Just drill the head off the bolt,it needn’t be square on.
There should be enough left proud to get some mole grips on once the plastic trim is off.
If it still needs to be drilled out after everything is removed ,it can be ground flat and centre punched prior to drilling.

I was thinking about it but that has to be drilled through the rack. I can protect the sides with a plastic or such. That is for tomorrow. I'm letting the WD40 soak a bit.

 

[malcopopolo]

I have removed these bolts in the past and they are tight. They do have loctite so you may wish to use a hairdryer for 10 mins to try and soften the loctite.

 

[Deleted account 260111001]

I had the same on my 2018 GSA, dealer had taken it off to install factory alarm and rounded head. I got a Wera 3/4 drive super long Torx and made sure it was in by gently hammering it in.
Got a spare one now, but not great as access is limited from above

 

[Alan R]

View attachment 496449

I have removed these bolts in the past and they are tight. They do have loctite so you may wish to use a hairdryer for 10 mins to try and soften the loctite.

This. Heat for 10 leave for 5 then heat again for 10. The heat will soak down the length of the bolt to the threads.
Of no use to you now obviously, but why did you not simply remove the bottom frame bolts, loosen the top frame bolts and swing up the whole of the rear end of the bike?
Not upside down like the bloody photograph
Alan R

 

[tanneman]

Piss off with sensible advice. Where were you when I needed it

Anyway, it will get a descent clean. I used Bilthamber anti corrosion stuff to get to the places that won't see a sponge or brush and so far no corrosion on the bike.

 

[Rockred]

Slightly off topic. When I was young I could bend a metal bar over my erect penis, Now I’m old and getting on a bit I can’t do it anymore...........My wrists have gone....

 

[farmermo]

Can you get a chisel to it? It’s not ideal, but if you can, use the chisel to cut slightly into the side of the head which you can then drive to undo.
Last case scenario though.

 

[the woodster]

Soak in plus gas or similar releasing spray (WD40 is NOT a releasing spray)... for 24 hours... then do it again for another 24 hours.
Then (as said before) hammer in the next size up torx bit, and use an impart driver or windy-gun to get it out.

Then have a LARGE beer to celebrate while you order a new bolt.

+ 1 on this, using Plus gas. Give it a hefty tap a couple of time a day as well.

 

[autogs]

plus gas duck oil wd 40 ? will make absolutly no difference they will not magically dissolve the locktite which is the problem,impact driver and big hammer ? dear god! a bit of heat at the start would have seen none of this happen,there are numerous threads about bmw locktite spread across this forum.get the best fitting tool into the fastner this may well be another torx or even allen key use plenty of heat ,you may need to use a gas soldering iron to get heat down the bolt,using a heat gun in this position may damage the silver carrier,stable door and horse i know but hey.good luck

 

[tanneman]

Tried to chisel a notch in it but that was not going to work. I have a Halfords Professional tools set and the tool fitting was good. It is a 8.8 bolt so not the hardest and not the tightest of torque. Access is iffy so the drill came out. As for the remaining stud, it will get the heat treatment now that the plastics are off.

 

[AberdeenAngus]

Hammer in the next size up torx bit and then use a impact driver

Heat...then this.

 

[tanneman]

Just the stud left.

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