Call out BM Assist?
Number is on the back of the key fob metal bit
Number is on the back of the key fob metal bit
Brakes and ABS
- Thread starter BLUEJAY
- Start date
spannerman
Registered user
Rear Brakes Not Working
Sorry guys,that should have read JUNE but its still pretty crap,dont you think?
Sorry guys,that should have read JUNE but its still pretty crap,dont you think?
Sorry guys,that should have read JUNE but its still pretty crap,dont you think?
So call out BM assist, they do seem to have some bike knowledge
And if the brake is not "working" how's the bike getting to the dealers
everywherevirtually
Registered user
Do it yourself. It's dead easy and takes 10 minutes. 15 if you're the careful type.
pull the 'R' clip out with a pliers and knock the retaining bolt through with a hammer and nail / screwdriver. pads drop out.
Prize open the brake mechanism and insert new pads. put the retaining pin back, plus the R clip and be sure to have removed the rear brake reservoir cap. Remove any excess fluid with a paper towel to the required level and bobs your uncle.
I say this having had no previous experience of such a task and doing it with a rusty nail and a rock in the middle of the wilds of Macedonia
pull the 'R' clip out with a pliers and knock the retaining bolt through with a hammer and nail / screwdriver. pads drop out.
Prize open the brake mechanism and insert new pads. put the retaining pin back, plus the R clip and be sure to have removed the rear brake reservoir cap. Remove any excess fluid with a paper towel to the required level and bobs your uncle.
I say this having had no previous experience of such a task and doing it with a rusty nail and a rock in the middle of the wilds of Macedonia
How do you know it's the pads that are worn out?
Klanky
Registered user
My rear brake doesn't work either.
This is because I inadvertantly sprayed the disc with chain lube and didn't notice until I tried to use the back brake.........
But it hasn't gone rusty since
This is because I inadvertantly sprayed the disc with chain lube and didn't notice until I tried to use the back brake.........
But it hasn't gone rusty since
everywherevirtually
Registered user
because coincidentally the rear brake wears out at 12000 miles and the front can do 24000 on the F800 due to the double discs. If it's the 650 then it would also be 12000 for the front.
The brake caliper is a pretty simple device so I am making an educated assumption based on mine needing new pads at exactly 12000 miles
Either way you now know how to fit a rear brake pad
spannerman
Registered user
rear brake not working
actually chaps i am a mechanic myself,but as the bike has only done 3,000 miles and is under warranty i dont see why i should do it myself,the problem is excessive travel on the rear brake pedal about an inch and a half and even with the pedal right down there is hardly any braking force as if there is air in the system
actually chaps i am a mechanic myself,but as the bike has only done 3,000 miles and is under warranty i dont see why i should do it myself,the problem is excessive travel on the rear brake pedal about an inch and a half and even with the pedal right down there is hardly any braking force as if there is air in the system
antonisv
Guest
Check the color of the break fluid. If it is black then go to the dealer to change your rear brake fluid. I believe that is exactly the problem. Please let us know what you did.
shag
Registered user
Rear Brake
My rear brake travel is crap! about an inch & half travel and there is no bite
6000 miles service with change of brake fluid so it's not dirty fluid but it could be down to bad spongy brake cable
Off road with the ABS off and it's bloody worrying trying to stop the bike, on a few occasion's i have used me heel to bang the back brake on
Told the dealer and got told to SLOW DOWN THEN hahah n*bs
Seriously it's naff.
What about a stainless steel line or will that be to severe?
Sorry but just checked the rear cables and they are stainless steel....now i am worried!!!!!!
My rear brake travel is crap! about an inch & half travel and there is no bite
6000 miles service with change of brake fluid so it's not dirty fluid but it could be down to bad spongy brake cable
Off road with the ABS off and it's bloody worrying trying to stop the bike, on a few occasion's i have used me heel to bang the back brake on
Told the dealer and got told to SLOW DOWN THEN hahah n*bs
Seriously it's naff.
What about a stainless steel line or will that be to severe?
Sorry but just checked the rear cables and they are stainless steel....now i am worried!!!!!!
Last edited:
spannerman
Registered user
rear brake not working
got the bike back from the dealers ,who reckond that there was oil or some contaminate on the pads,they had cleaned the pads and disc,he said he had ridden the bike and the brake was now working properly.So for all you 800 owners just to let you know the rear brakes musy be totally s**t because it still doesn't like it should.I am off to have a word with a friendly mot tester to put it on his brake rollers and if it doesn't pass a brake test it will be going back to the dealers and will kick him up the arse to see if that wakes him up.
got the bike back from the dealers ,who reckond that there was oil or some contaminate on the pads,they had cleaned the pads and disc,he said he had ridden the bike and the brake was now working properly.So for all you 800 owners just to let you know the rear brakes musy be totally s**t because it still doesn't like it should.I am off to have a word with a friendly mot tester to put it on his brake rollers and if it doesn't pass a brake test it will be going back to the dealers and will kick him up the arse to see if that wakes him up.
OZGS
Guest
Rear brake fix
Spannerman,
Get a 2lt or preferably larger capacity container of any sort (oil container is great), fill it with water if not already full.
Loop some string or a cable tie around the rear brake pedal and attach the container so it doesnt touch the ground.
If your brake really has a lot of movement then quickly pump it up a bit before attaching the container.
Leave overnight, then remove.
Try your rear brake again.
If there is air in the brake line this will remove it.
ps. For the front brake just put a cable tie around the lever and the handle bar and tighten till firm, leave overnight.
If you still have a problem after this them find a new dealer / workshop because you have a 'big and dangerous problem'.
Cheers
Tony
This will work, I dare you to try it!
Spannerman,
Get a 2lt or preferably larger capacity container of any sort (oil container is great), fill it with water if not already full.
Loop some string or a cable tie around the rear brake pedal and attach the container so it doesnt touch the ground.
If your brake really has a lot of movement then quickly pump it up a bit before attaching the container.
Leave overnight, then remove.
Try your rear brake again.
If there is air in the brake line this will remove it.
ps. For the front brake just put a cable tie around the lever and the handle bar and tighten till firm, leave overnight.
If you still have a problem after this them find a new dealer / workshop because you have a 'big and dangerous problem'.
Cheers
Tony
This will work, I dare you to try it!
spannerman
Registered user
Rear brake not working
Hi OZGS
Tried your remedy for the rear brake overnight,it has certainly reduced the travel to about 1/2", i shall find out shortly if the brake is better as i am off to work on it,just a quick 25 mile trip that should tell me.Perhaps BMW should adopt this method as theres is totally useless.Cheers for the advise,if i dont post again on this topic asume it worked.
Hi OZGS
Tried your remedy for the rear brake overnight,it has certainly reduced the travel to about 1/2", i shall find out shortly if the brake is better as i am off to work on it,just a quick 25 mile trip that should tell me.Perhaps BMW should adopt this method as theres is totally useless.Cheers for the advise,if i dont post again on this topic asume it worked.
twisticles
Registered user
I tried this on a previous bike...was gobsmacked to find that it does work!
24,000 miles and mine works fine... always has
Just make sure that you don't adjust the height of the rear brake pedal with the small adjustment rod at the rear of the brake lever that goes up in to the master cylinder
You'll end up with no brear brake
Just make sure that you don't adjust the height of the rear brake pedal with the small adjustment rod at the rear of the brake lever that goes up in to the master cylinder
You'll end up with no brear brake
smaytum
Registered user
ABS... normal behaviour?
I've had an F800GS for some months now and fairly often the ABS is on and thumping away for no obvious reason. I think what is happening is that i initiate braking on a small bump/pothole and the ABS jumps in and remains on all the time i continue to brake - even though i'm not braking hard enough to lock the front wheel.
Is this normal?
I've had an F800GS for some months now and fairly often the ABS is on and thumping away for no obvious reason. I think what is happening is that i initiate braking on a small bump/pothole and the ABS jumps in and remains on all the time i continue to brake - even though i'm not braking hard enough to lock the front wheel.
Is this normal?
ILMV
Registered user
I have a similar issue with the rear brake, whereby when I go over a bit of a bump the ABS kicks in, but it doesn't keep happening all the way down the street.
ILMV
ILMV
Fanum
Toubab
Klanky
Registered user
In a word - no.
I've hauled my speed down very quickly on more than a few occasions without as much as a single pulse from the ABS - and I know it's working after doing a full-on emergency stop in the wet.
Never had any probs with braking over potholes etc. A word with your dealer, methinks.
(edit) unless the ABS is kicking in as the wheel goes 'airborne' over the pothole - not something I've noticed myself...but it shouldn't stay on, certainly.
I've hauled my speed down very quickly on more than a few occasions without as much as a single pulse from the ABS - and I know it's working after doing a full-on emergency stop in the wet.
Never had any probs with braking over potholes etc. A word with your dealer, methinks.
(edit) unless the ABS is kicking in as the wheel goes 'airborne' over the pothole - not something I've noticed myself...but it shouldn't stay on, certainly.
everywherevirtually
Registered user
I would guess that the ABS is activated even before you have applied pressure to the brakes. I have gone over rough ground and as soon as I've gently touched the front brake I can feel the tension in the lever. The rule is though to turn the ABS off if you are going off road or are likely to be going over a poor road surface.
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