Brakes Problem

[gsbiker]

Just decided to remove rear caliper and check pads when one of the caliper bolts head twisted off leaving part of the thread still attached to the caliper. I'm not going to attempt a repair myself but has this happened to anyone else? The other rear caliper bolt was bone dry with light rust around the thread. My bike is almost 6 years old with full dealer service. Doesn't look like it's been touch in a long time! I'm hoping the garage will be able to remove what's left?

 

[bikemad]

Drill out job fairly easy even if its heli-coiled,compared to a head stud I snapped a while ago much more of a problem

Should be copper slipped I always coat brake parts that slide or bolts with it also use stainless fasteners.

 

[Bendy toy]

100% agree but factory don't do Copaslip so neither will the dealer. It also needs some engineering ability to tighten the lubricated bolt properly without over torquing. Can't have that oh no.


Grammar police approved

 

[meathumper]

Drill out job fairly easy even if its heli-coiled,compared to a head stud I snapped a while ago much more of a problem

Should be copper slipped I always coat brake parts that slide or bolts with it also use stainless fasteners.

Brake components (fixing bolts) should always be dry assembled. Add light grease to sliding calipers.

 

[gsbiker]

Brake components (fixing bolts) should always be dry assembled. Add light grease to sliding calipers.

Well this has got me doubting how good my past services have been. I looks like my rear caliper hasn't been removed in years.

I will be greasing those bolts alittle because it's not much fun snapping bolts then having to get your bike to a garage and pay for a repair.

 

[Engineer]

Don't thing greasing is a good idea but undoing them and re-torquing every so often might be wise.

 

[meathumper]

Well this has got me doubting how good my past services have been. I looks like my rear caliper hasn't been removed in years.

I will be greasing those bolts alittle because it's not much fun snapping bolts then having to get your bike to a garage and pay for a repair.

if you grease the fixing bolts you will be over torquing them. The lube reduces friction thus giving a higher torque, this also could result in snapped bolt or stripped threads, or they could vibrate loose. I would go with what Engineer says.

 

[mikeyboy]

Caliper bolts should always be loctited as far as I am concerned.
I know of at least two instances where the rear caliper has come adrift and gone into the wheel,
Luckily no one was injured as the wheel collapsed.
Both bikes had been worked on at reputable workshops(not mine)
The loctite will also seal the threads and should prevent corrosion

 

[birdseye]

Well this has got me doubting how good my past services have been. I looks like my rear caliper hasn't been removed in years.

.

Is caliper removal a part of any scheduled routine service?

 

[WindyChuffer]

Shit happens. Easy job for any competent mechanic.

 

[mikeyboy]

Is caliper removal a part of any scheduled routine service?

Can't see a dealer removing one unless there is good reason .
I take them off every service to check,clean and lube the slides,
Pump the pistons out to check for corrosion etc, maybe just me but I think is a pretty essential part of routine servicing

 

[stever1]

Is caliper removal a part of any scheduled routine service?

Apparently not. I had my RT in for its 12000 service recently. Dealer told me that the front brake pads had an amber warning for wear. When I got home I stripped them and found that I pad was down to .4 mm. Well below the allowed minimum. I rang dealer and was told brakes are not touched on ANY service, just a visual check is carried out (obviously not carried out on my service).
I replaced the pads myself and went on a 2 1/2 thousand mile tour. When I returned I took it back to the dealer as instructed and was told by the bike sales manager. "good news, the Caliper is seized". how this is good news I do not know, personally I think what he was telling me was its OK going away on a heavily laden bike with no brakes.
Maybe its time to go elsewhere.

 

[gsbiker]

Being a laymen / customer I would have expected the calipers to be removed and checked at some point in it's 20K life!!! I'm not saying they havn't but it doesn't look like they are being checked based on people's responses and the looking at the condition of my bolts! This is basic routine maintenance / Health & Safety I would have thought - they are the only thing that can stop you - safely!

Interesting what some are saying about not greasing up the bolts! I spoke to a garage today who told me he's wouldn't have though the calipers would have been checked under service either and that he thought they should be greased - mind you he was only an employee and not the boss!

 

[Sgt Bilco]

I think learning to check your brakes regularly is something everyone should do. It's very easy and straightforward and will only take an easy morning to strip and clean front and back a couple of times a year. At least then you know your brakes are fine rather than relying on someone else.

 

[stever1]

I think learning to check your brakes regularly is something everyone should do. It's very easy and straightforward and will only take an easy morning to strip and clean front and back a couple of times a year. At least then you know your brakes are fine rather than relying on someone else.

Definitely agree with you on this. now I know they are not touched by the dealer I will strip and check yearly.

 

[Pukmeister]

Yet another reason why I service my own vehicles.

 

[gsbiker]

I think learning to check your brakes regularly is something everyone should do. It's very easy and straightforward and will only take an easy morning to strip and clean front and back a couple of times a year. At least then you know your brakes are fine rather than relying on someone else.

Thats sounds all well and good but I bought a new bike from a dealer and have paid them to service it for me ever since. Whilst I'm considering my options now, this should be something they do especially when they charge me typically anything between £170 - £250! I'm no mechanic and when I start to service things they go wrong. Yes I learn along the way but it's quite costly.

 

[gsbiker]

Some of my bolts are rusting, been meaning to replace them, no that I have to replace the caliper bolts what are peoples general opinion - Stainless/Titanium/OEM factory original? I know stainless seems a no brainer but aren't they softer material and not recommended on brakes?

I found these stainless kits on ebay - any good? / worth the money?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R1200...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3cdee21a97

 

[mikeyboy]

Some of my bolts are rusting, been meaning to replace them, no that I have to replace the caliper bolts what are peoples general opinion - Stainless/Titanium/OEM factory original? I know stainless seems a no brainer but aren't they softer material and not recommended on brakes?

I found these stainless kits on ebay - any good? / worth the money?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R1200...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3cdee21a97

some people will say stainless bolts should not be used for caliper mounting bolts,i have been using them for years without any problems as have many others.
if the use of stainless bolts worries you just replace with the OEM items or spend a bit more on titanium

 

[littleredrooster]

Caliper bolts should always be loctited as far as I am concerned.
...
The loctite will also seal the threads and should prevent corrosion

^ ^ This - absolutely. Loctite is widely misunderstood; it doesn't weld bolts to casings, or nuts to bolts, but can actually make disassembly much easier because, when it sets, it seals the threads against moisture and therefore corrosion or electrolytic action.

A bit of heat is often required to soften the bond, after which the bolt should screw out easily.