Cam chain tensioner

[rustychain]

My 2001 1150GS has the classic symptoms of an original left hand chain tensioner that needs upgrading.

If I restart the engine when hot there's the left hand tick tick tick until I blip the throttle.

The upgraded tensioner should arrive tomorrow. I've been stripping the bike down tonight in preparation. I noticed that the tensioner has the 15mm head. I messaged the chap I purchased it from and he's pretty sure it was upgraded.

Are the symptoms something else? Could the upgraded tensioner be worn out?

 

[The Other PaulG]

You're certain it's not the throttle body tick?

 

[DrFarkoff]

My 2001 1150GS has the classic symptoms of an original left hand chain tensioner that needs upgrading.

If I restart the engine when hot there's the left hand tick tick tick until I blip the throttle.

The upgraded tensioner should arrive tomorrow. I've been stripping the bike down tonight in preparation. I noticed that the tensioner has the 15mm head. I messaged the chap I purchased it from and he's pretty sure it was upgraded.

Are the symptoms something else? Could the upgraded tensioner be worn out?

What oil ?? 20W50

or 10W40 and or Fully Synth??

 

[rustychain]

You're certain it's not the throttle body tick?

I'm not certain, I'll have a look into the symptoms and see if that's it

 

[rustychain]

What oil ?? 20W50

or 10W40 and or Fully Synth??

Mannol Safari 20W50. Freshly changed and still does it.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Mannol Safari 20W50. Freshly changed and still does it.

May have been steered off course a bit

The tick tick tick thing Does it return after you release the throttle ?

If so if you just "Squeeze" the throttle open a smidge does it go away until you release the cable tension? If it does that then it is likely a worn bushing in a throttle body

 

[rustychain]

May have been steered off course a bit

The tick tick tick thing Does it return after you release the throttle ?

If so if you just "Squeeze" the throttle open a smidge does it go away until you release the cable tension? If it does that then it is likely a worn bushing in a throttle body

If I blip the throttle after starting the noise goes, which is why I thought it was the tensioner.

I'll put it all back together and do some more diagnosis.

 

[AdrianS]

The tick over rattle is just that. The throttle shaft rattles at tickover when slightly worn. Hold the revs slightly faster than tickover and the rattle stops.
Change the timing chain tensioner if you want to. You are correct that the 15mm bolt top suggests the tensioner has been changed. They are not expensive and you have eliminated that as a possible cause.
More nuisance value than anything else.

 

[rustychain]

I've put everything back together. So far I've not been able to replicate the problem.

After refitting the left hand TB I re-balanced them. It's my second attempt at balancing so maybe I did a better job this time and it's helped?

I noticed that the left hand throttle body cable is frayed (nearly 60k miles). I've added replacing all the throttle cables to the to-do list! I'm not looking forward to the job, getting the 'junction box' out of the frame looks like a right PITA!

 

[DrFarkoff]

I noticed that the left hand throttle body cable is frayed (nearly 60k miles). I've added replacing all the throttle cables to the to-do list! I'm not looking forward to the job, getting the 'junction box' out of the frame looks like a right PITA!

Its not that bad to be honest, Just time consuming

The worst part is cleaning all around, getting the breather hose off the airbox, and getting the cassette out

Undo all 4 cables 2 short throttle ones Fast idle and the twist grip one lay them all out on each side

Pull down the tang on the right to release the cassette and tap through from the left side to the right side and tap / wiggle / pull and spray Lubricant and tap some more and you should be able to get it out

There is a cam where the twist grip and 2 short cables attach and a edge thing for the fast idle

There is an easier method if you are doing all 4 cables? Just cyt them with a zippy disc But you still have to take the top 2 bits apart

Take photos of the fast idle set up WATCH for the little ball bearing when you strip it

Watch what screws are where on the throttle grip! I recall there are about 7 I think to get it all apart

And if you want the switch assembly off take off the mirror as there is a tiny one behind there too

DO NOT WD40 the Switch assembly in fact NEVER WD40 the switch gear on an 1150 as WD kills the membrane seals on the microswitches Use Slicone spray or grease

 

[rustychain]

Thanks for the pointers DrF - you make it sound less intimidating! I'll do all the cables so I'm only doing it once.

£177 for the four cables and the new design throttle guide from our friends at Motorworks.

Glad I spotted the fray - a failure could have been interesting....

 

[Riceburner]

Watch what screws are where on the throttle grip! I recall there are about 7 I think to get it all apart

Just want to labour this point: iirc each of those screws is different to the rest (different head, different length, different threads ... ), so it is wise to remember where they all go.

 

[Riceburner]

Thanks for the pointers DrF - you make it sound less intimidating! I'll do all the cables so I'm only doing it once.

£177 for the four cables and the new design throttle guide from our friends at Motorworks.

Glad I spotted the fray - a failure could have been interesting.

Move all the adjusters on the throttle cable fittings to "minimum" - otherwise they'll seem like they're all too short and you'll think they're the wrong ones. Yes they "will" be right, but they're cut to the absolute shortest length possible.

 

[rustychain]

Thanks for the tips Riceburner - I'll report on my progress.

 

[rustychain]

1.5 hours in and I'm ready to replace the cables. The biggest challenge so far was removing the lower screw on the 'choke' mechanism. Well and truly rusted in.

I've just gone to fit the 'choke' cable. I noticed a small plastic tab in the Motorworks box. The tab that holds the cable in place has snapped during packing/transit. I'll phone MW when they open at 10.00.

I fitted the cable to see if there's a work around. The cable is largely held under tension due to the spring in the junction box. Probably best to wait for the replacement which is super annoying!

 

[rustychain]

Motorworks were great and sent me a replacement cable which arrived yesterday.

I finished installing everything this morning and have been for a blast - it feels like a new bike! Psychological I'm sure. The throttle is so much lighter and the bike just wants to go.

Only one screw left over after the rebuild, not bad. There's a prize if you can tell me where it goes.

The build quality of the replacement cables seems good, but the 'lugs' are far too stiff compared the OE BMW cables (see pic for an example of the BMW lugs). The throttle cable lug was a complete PITA to fit to the junction box. It was really stiff and a little too short. A blast with a hairdryer softened it enough to fit. The OE lugs are super flexible and stretchy - I'd consider buying OE if doing it again.

Will keep you posted on the original 'noise' issue.