Chain life span

[alex_rsa]

I know this is nearly as bad as "how long does a set of brake pads last"....


My riding is predominately commuting and I seem to be eating rear chains. I do adjust them to the required slack and lubricate them every 400 miles or so but i am getting about 5000 miles from a chain before it needs adjusting weekly.


The F650 I had years ago (so similar commute) did 20 000 miles on a chain so I don't think it is how I ride.


Is this normal or should I be looking at the make of chain I am using?


Thanks


Alex

 

[rocky burns]

needs lubing more than every 400 miles with the shit and grime that's on the roads.
buy a scott oiler if your only commuting and not off road a lot.
Use x ring chains, buy a decent make DiD or RK 520 and you should get decent mileage out of them

 

[Greg Masters]

Here's a few tips:

• Your sprockets need to be perfectly aligned (not just parallel) - you can get a small laser tool for this
• If the sprockets are worn/hooked/shagged the chain life will decrease
• Don't run your chain too tight or too loose
• Use a decent lube like Mobil Fully Synth Chain Lube. Use regularly!
• Once you have worn through the case hardening of the pins, wear will increase rapidly
• Use a chain with a pin diameter of at least 5.2mm
• X-rings will last longer than O-rings. Both will last MUCH longer than an unringed chain
• A very small front sprocket will shorten chain life

What chain are you currently using?

 

[RedRick Esq.]

I would suggest

Top quality chain and sprockets

lubing it after every couple of rides or every ride if you are anal about your chain as i am
cleaning it properly every month or less if you are anal with your chain as i am

Dont adjust unless you have to

I am at nearly 4k on the XR and it has not been adjusted yet and is still fine

My mate used to get 15 - 20K on his KTM superduke by being anal about his chain and worked on the when it needs adjusting it needs changing principle

 

[JJH]

What chain are you using? Have you tried another type? It seems like a chain I had once. Gave the impression of a good chain for a few miles then needed very adjustment every 200 km. I bought a DID chain had it on the bike for well over 40,000 km without changing sprockets. Bike is gone and for all I know the chain is still on it. Don't listen to bulshit buy a quality chain. JJH

 

[alex_rsa]

Here's a few tips:

• Your sprockets need to be perfectly aligned (not just parallel) - you can get a small laser tool for this
• If the sprockets are worn/hooked/shagged the chain life will decrease
• Don't run your chain too tight or too loose
• Use a decent lube like Mobil Fully Synth Chain Lube. Use regularly!
• Once you have worn through the case hardening of the pins, wear will increase rapidly
• Use a chain with a pin diameter of at least 5.2mm
• X-rings will last longer than O-rings. Both will last MUCH longer than an unringed chain
• A very small front sprocket will shorten chain life

What chain are you currently using?

Hi Greg,


It is one of your newer spec chains. I have had it on just over 4000 miles and its started stretching like the previous one.

I am using Muc-off Endurance chain lube every 2 weeks (400 miles). I used a much stickier chain lube on the F650 but they really coated the chain in black goo but it did last 20 000 miles!

I will check the sprockets for hooking and alignment but I think they are OK.

Thanks


Alex

 

[artig]

The chains that BMW put on the earliest bikes were rubbish. Mine was replaced under warranty at about 2500 km and a high-quality chain fitted. The front sprocket was replaced with the F800GS-equivalent (one tooth less). That chain has now done well over 60,000 km with the only adjustments being when the bike is serviced or the rear tyre replaced. The bike is fitted with a pro-oiler, which does make a mess of the rim and other parts, but keeps the chain well lubricated and prolongs the life of the chain and sprockets.

 

[alex_rsa]

I checked this morning, rear sprocket is showing hooking so that will be contributing.

I think it is time for a new chain, rear sprocket and scott-oiler. I am all for a "fit-and-forget" option.

For reference a chain in the UK will never last as long as one in NZ. It spends 3 months of the year permantly damp and for some of that period coated in salt, it's not a good mix for rust prevention

 

[RedRick Esq.]

I checked this morning, rear sprocket is showing hooking so that will be contributing.

I think it is time for a new chain, rear sprocket and scott-oiler. I am all for a "fit-and-forget" option.

For reference a chain in the UK will never last as long as one in NZ. It spends 3 months of the year permantly damp and for some of that period coated in salt, it's not a good mix for rust prevention

Do the front sprocket as well !

As for fit and forget even with a scotoiler you wont be able to do that as the thing will need its flow adjusting according to the weather

I still say the best option is to give the chain a spray with a decent lube ( i like PJ1 blue label) when you get home at night, it only takes 30 seconds and spend 20 minutes a month cleaning the chain with chain cleaner or parafin

 

[steve hughes]

At a risk of stating the obvious make sure you check chain tension on the side stand. My F650 twin sits down on the suspension and what looks/ feels just right on the main stand is too tight when on the side stand with some weight on it. If it was left like this it would also strain the main drive bearing.

Another tip that was on her many moons ago is to remove the plastic front sproket cover. It will be full of shit which abrades the chain with every rev. Then BEFORE refitting put a couple of washers on the base of the studs between the engine and the cover. By setting the cover off about 3 mm you reduce the incidence of shit and crap building up to a grinding paste effect.

Defo agree if you have hooking then that will not help. I fitted an DID X ring about 18,000 miles ago it rarely needs adjusting. I dont have a scotoiler i use Putoline ceramic spray wax.

Hth
Steve

 

[Micky]

F800GS now at 118,000 miles

Only ever use genuine BMW sprockets and DID Gold Professional chain

Only ever replace as a total set of the three

Never bothered with the Scot Oiler things, messy and too many variables ... I use a good quality chain lube spray after each ride, just a quick wooooosh is all you need. Castrol OR a favourite

Too tight will kill a chain and sprockets very quickly

Too loose and it will kill a chain and sprockets almost as quickly

Correct tension is the way to go ... but it's a load of bollox this centre stand, side stand malarkey

Your chain is at its tightest when the gearbox sprocket centre, the swing arm centre and the rear wheel spindle centre are all in a straight line. Any up and down movement of the rear wheel from this position will loosen the chain tension!

So you need to check your chain tension when these three centre's are in line, whether that be side stand, centre stand, loaded or unloaded matters not ... check your chain when the three centre's are in line

BUT you need to find the chains tightest spot first ... as the chain wears it will develop tight spots ... get the three centre's in line when at its tightest tight spot

20,000 to 30,000 usually out of my chains, sometimes less, sometimes more. I normally replace before really necessary ... makes a helluva difference to the sweet running of the 'bike

 

[Micky]

Further to the above ...I use this. Keeps the rear end of my 800 (and 650Xcountry) cleaner than most 1200's

Doesn't wash off, or fling off, does the job just grand

 

[slparry]

I fitted a Loobman to mine,

http://www.loobman.co.uk/

a mere £18, like a scottoiler but a simpler manual application option, I just press the button for a couple of seconds each way of my commute to work and it delivers a nice dose of oil that loobs and cleans the chain and sprockets. I've been very pleased with it and the chain rarely needs adjusting so I guess it's helping

 

[Micky]

I fitted a Loobman to mine,

a mere £18, like a scottoiler but a simpler manual application option, I just press the button for a couple of seconds each way of my commute to work and it delivers a nice dose of oil that loobs and cleans the chain and sprockets. I've been very pleased with it and the chain rarely needs adjusting so I guess it's helping

Over how many miles has it rarely needed adjusting?

So a few blobs of oil on pressing a button cleans your chain and sprockets

Fuck me I'll be having one of those in the morning .... pressing a button and it cleans my chain and sprockets

 

[ymfb]

Having bought some cheapest on here, I knew fairly quickly I had made a mistake so fitted Touratech sprockets with a DiD chain.

That as close as you can get to fit and forget

 

[alex_rsa]

Castrol o-r is no longer available, any other suggestions?

 

[JJH]

Castrol o-r is no longer available, any other suggestions?

I don't know what that is. I used ep 80/90 in a jam jar with an old paint brush as well as the Scot oiler. JJH

 

[Bungy]

I found with high performance sports bikes that chain maintenance did require some effort. With an "O" ring chain keeping it clean made a big difference. Lubricating oil and dust/grit just turns into cutting compound. After a dry/clean ride I would apply chain wax immediately when getting back as it would go on better with the chain warm and then dry before the next ride. Any signs of a build up of dirt I would clean the chain by saturating with "Mr Sheen" spray and clean with a toothbrush and then rag. Chain wax then applied on both sides whilst hand turning the back wheel and then from above and below the chain. Preferably left over night to set. Glad I don't do that now but once in a routine it doesn't take long.

 

[Micky]

Castrol o-r is no longer available, any other suggestions?

We bought a box of twelve cans not too long ago ... are you sure

I found with high performance sports bikes that chain maintenance did require some effort. With an "O" ring chain keeping it clean made a big difference. Lubricating oil and dust/grit just turns into cutting compound. After a dry/clean ride I would apply chain wax immediately when getting back as it would go on better with the chain warm and then dry before the next ride. Any signs of a build up of dirt I would clean the chain by saturating with "Mr Sheen" spray and clean with a toothbrush and then rag. Chain wax then applied on both sides whilst hand turning the back wheel and then from above and below the chain. Preferably left over night to set. Glad I don't do that now but once in a routine it doesn't take long.

You want some of that stuff slparry is using (post 13) press a button and it cleans your chain

 

[batman1]

Castrol o-r is no longer available, any other suggestions?

Really? Seems to be plenty available here...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-C...103530?hash=item1c5715626a:g:LtUAAOSw9N1Vvh5R