Clutch knackered?

essjay

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Noticed that in the last couple of months I'm sometimes needing to double or triple clutch to change down gear.

Is this an impending sign of doom? Might try putting some posh oil in it over the weekend to see if it helps but I doubt it......
 
Remove teh little clip from the linkage Ball joint and sweivel teh gear lever is it stiff and reluctant to move ????

Yes Then Clean the Bush arrangement that the lever pivots on and When was the last time the brake and clutch fluid were flushed thru and changed ?? ;)
 
Remove teh little clip from the linkage Ball joint and sweivel teh gear lever is it stiff and reluctant to move ????

Yes Then Clean the Bush arrangement that the lever pivots on and When was the last time the brake and clutch fluid were flushed thru and changed ?? ;)

No idea when the clutch fluid was last done. I only have the bike since November. The brake fluid was done a few years ago when the hoses were changed for SS ones. I'll have a look through the service notes later and check - can't be any harm to do it again though.

I'll have a go at that clip later.

Thanks a mill.....
 
No idea when the clutch fluid was last done. I only have the bike since November. The brake fluid was done a few years ago when the hoses were changed for SS ones. I'll have a look through the service notes later and check - can't be any harm to do it again though.

I'll have a go at that clip later.

Thanks a mill.....
Essjay Brake and clutch fluid should be done every other year regardless of mileage

Brake fluid is the same base material as Antrifreeze i.e. Etylene Glycol

It is Extremely Hygroscopic and absorbs moisture

The Fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and the water makes the fluid "boil" and you loose the brakes as little as 3% moisture will reduce brake efficiancy by 15 to 20 % when hot

If teh clutch fluid is black you may have a stuck centre bearing on the pushrod and it's spinning the whole lot! and wearing yer seal away
 
Clutch

If the clutch frees ok, ie you pull up and pull away normally it's got nothing to do with the fluid. This will be purely the lever seizing up, take off the linkage and remove the pedal pivot, this is bolted on with locktite and will require heating up with a hot air gun before removing the allen bolt holding it on.
Just clean the bolt when it's off and lube it and all your probs will be solved.
Dave GS
 
The OPs profile says 1100GS.....cable clutch probably needs adjustment.
 
Its the gear selector lever.
Strip the pivot bolt and bushes, clean, re-lube with summat suitable and re-assemble. Job will be a good-un.:thumb2
Had to do mine yesterday, out on Saturday and felt it becoming more stiff (the selector lever that is), and that's the second time in a year. 20 min job.
They get all the crud.
Gavin
 
Noticed that in the last couple of months I'm sometimes needing to double or triple clutch to change down gear.

Is this an impending sign of doom? Might try putting some posh oil in it over the weekend to see if it helps but I doubt it......

Just use hp90 gearbox oil.

Check cable for wear.
Check Free play at the gearbox end on clutch arm.
Check if any oil on starter motor, this is an indication of a gearbox seal leaking.

Try these for now , n report yer finding back

Mines a 1100GS

ugg
 
Essjay Brake and clutch fluid should be done every other year regardless of mileage

Brake fluid is the same base material as Antrifreeze i.e. Etylene Glycol

It is Extremely Hygroscopic and absorbs moisture

The Fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and the water makes the fluid "boil" and you loose the brakes as little as 3% moisture will reduce brake efficiancy by 15 to 20 % when hot

If teh clutch fluid is black you may have a stuck centre bearing on the pushrod and it's spinning the whole lot! and wearing yer seal away

How does the moisture get into the fluid, which is, as you say hygroscopic?

(I assume you are referring to brakes, and not clutch, since it has hydraulic type oil in it)
Myke
 
How does the moisture get into the fluid, which is, as you say hygroscopic?

(I assume you are referring to brakes, and not clutch, since it has hydraulic type oil in it)
Myke

He's got an 1100 - he doesn't have to worry about clutch fluid :augie
 
I presume you mean me!

Dose nobody read bloody threads right through these days :blast
If it does mean me, the question is still valid.
I did read the thread.
So, how and where does the air in the atmosphere get in contact with the brake fluid?
Myke
 
If it does mean me, the question is still valid.
I did read the thread.
So, how and where does the air in the atmosphere get in contact with the brake fluid?
Myke

Not directly at you.

As for your question ,

Only if the master cylinder top is opened ,and the fluid level drops then air is dragged in. thats how you get air bubbles in the line.

if its not opened , i cant see how?


ugg
 
Sorry to sound like a idiot.... but where do I need to take off and clean? A,B,C or D or all of them?

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836840550_fHLi8-M.jpg
 
Right, undid the clip by the ball joint near the gear lever and popped it off. The gear lever moves freely. When I get a chance I'll take off the pivot bolt and grease it up but from my initial look, it doesn't seem that the lever is jamming.

Just to maybe explain the problem a bit better. I pull in the clutch and try and change down gear (only ever happens when changing down). The sensation/stiffness in the gear lever is like the bike is in 1st and trying to push the gear lever down further. Usually I can force it to change down (it means putting a lot of force onto the gear lever) but if I let the clutch out and then pull it in again, usually I can change gear as normal. Sometimes it takes a 3rd pull of the clutch.
 


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