Clutch knackered?

[(RIP) ugg]

Are you sure that the clutch is engaging properly.
Shifting up a gear is easly done wiout using the clutch, if you have enough revs.

Shifting down wiout clutch isnt good, it seems like your clutch isnt fully engaged so shifting down is difficult.

pulling in the clutch 2 or 3 times , you might be pulling it harder n the gear shifts down eventually.

Dose the bike set off ok, or lunge forward when letting the clutch out?
cable could be getting warn?

 

[essjay]

the bike shifts up fine in low (idle) or higher revs. No lunge forward when taking off.

Just happens on the down but not always. Only happened once on the spin to work this morning whereas it was a few times yesterday.

 

[essjay]

Oh, and does the swing arm have to come off to change the clutch cable? Had a quick scan at the Haynes manual this morning and it mentioned something along those lines.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Oh, and does the swing arm have to come off to change the clutch cable? Had a quick scan at the Haynes manual this morning and it mentioned something along those lines.

Bollox it does Look below your air box right side you will see the cable go in just there

If you are careful you can take off the arm pressure and remove it and replace it right there

BUT the set up of the adjuster locknut and bolt is difficult even with the wheel removed

It is do able !

 

[essjay]

Right, took off the gear lever at the weekend and greased it all up but no change.

One thing I did notice was that at both ends of where the pivot bolt goes through the gear lever, there are what I can only call two metal washers (think they were also black). These seemed quite rough and chipped in places but I don't think they could be the cause of the gear change issues.

Might try tightening the clutch cable next.

 

[MattW]

It's certainly a good idea to make sure that the clutch is adjusted 'by the book'. The diagram below is from the factory manual and uses a special tool for the gearbox end adjustment. However you don't actually need the tool - you can get away with a wobble socket or U/J and normal spanner but it does require a bit of faffing.

It's very important to make sure that there is play at the gearbox lever (the precise amount isn't as important as just making sure there is some play). If you don't have play at the gearbox lever the clutch wont engage fully and it'll slip and knacker the clutch in very short order.

 

[essjay]

It's certainly a good idea to make sure that the clutch is adjusted 'by the book'. The diagram below is from the factory manual and uses a special tool for the gearbox end adjustment. However you don't actually need the tool - you can get away with a wobble socket or U/J and normal spanner but it does require a bit of faffing.

It's very important to make sure that there is play at the gearbox lever (the precise amount isn't as important as just making sure there is some play). If you don't have play at the gearbox lever the clutch wont engage fully and it'll slip and knacker the clutch in very short order.

Cheers thanks for that Matt.

The Haynes manual says to measure 10mm at "A" above but to measure 5mm down between "1" & "2" (bottom image). Maybe I read it wrong and that was for RT's only but pretty sure it was for the GS.

 

[MattW]

Cheers thanks for that Matt.

The Haynes manual says to measure 10mm at "A" above but to measure 5mm down between "1" & "2" (bottom image). Maybe I read it wrong and that was for RT's only but pretty sure it was for the GS.

I've only done routine adjustment as part of a service using the workshop manual and Clymer so Steptoe / Jaythro etc are probably your best source of info about this - bread and butter for them.

The thing which sticks in my mind is Steptoe saying that it's important to have play at the gearbox clutch arm - I'm not sure how important the precise measurement is - I've a feeling, not very...

 

[essjay]

I've only done routine adjustment as part of a service using the workshop manual and Clymer so Steptoe / Jaythro etc are probably your best source of info about this - bread and butter for them.

The thing which sticks in my mind is Steptoe saying that it's important to have play at the gearbox clutch arm - I'm not sure how important the precise measurement is - I've a feeling, not very...

I'm wondering is the setting of "B" effectively the same as the setting between "1" & "2" in the bottom image whouch would then be your 5mm of play down at the clutch arm?

 

[Steptoe]

I'm wondering is the setting of "B" effectively the same as the setting between "1" & "2" in the bottom image whouch would then be your 5mm of play down at the clutch arm?

No, one doesn't equal the other.
One adjustment is cable slack, the other ( the most important adjustment) is pushrod gap.

Very simple
If you can to move the clutch arm by hand you have some play, which is good . No play - bad.
Adjust the arm, then adjust the cable. No need to get anal over it, don't worry about a couple of mm's here or there on the cable.