Clutch Unit

[Rugged Path]

For the three separate plates required for the unit.
What is the best options available?

My 2002 1150GSA has the lower 1st and 6th gear box.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

I can't say I fully understand your question.

The gearbox ratios are irrelevant to the clutch unit.

If you have to replace the entire clutch assembly, it consists of 4 seperate items.

1. Clutch friction plate (the bit that wears out)
2. Thrust plate
3. Housing cover
4. Diaphragm Spring.
And of course the bolts that secure the assembly to the clutch housing.

Depending on the state of wear, you may get away with replacing just the Friction plate. Some do, while others would say it's false economy and replace the whole lot.

There are springs on the thrust plate and the diaphragm Spring, which weaken over time.

Ian

 

[davegs]

Never replace just the friction plate whole assembly or nothing, with just the plate you'll be doing it again in 5000 mile or less.

 

[moonhead911]

Never replace just the friction plate whole assembly or nothing, with just the plate you'll be doing it again in 5000 mile or less.

I did the friction plate 14000 miles ago and still going strong so that's aload of bull

 

[The Grey One]

I did the friction plate 14000 miles ago and still going strong so that's aload of bull

And I daresay we could find someone who has played Russian Roulette and survived to tell you it is perfectly safe! If you are doing the job yourself on your own bike you can take the chance of doing half the job, maybe you will get away with it maybe you won't. Good practice is to replace the lot, anything else is a compromise.

John

 

[beemer pimp]

Well that depends ....
If you replace clutch just because gearbox was off then I say you get away just with friction plate.
On other hand if replacing because clutch was banjaxed then replace lot, plates could be warped
Scored .

2 bikes , twice is happy

 

[Rugged Path]

The Sachs clutch parts seem to be the best I hear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[moonhead911]

And I daresay we could find someone who has played Russian Roulette and survived to tell you it is perfectly safe! If you are doing the job yourself on your own bike you can take the chance of doing half the job, maybe you will get away with it maybe you won't. Good practice is to replace the lot, anything else is a compromise.

John

only take 3 hours to change and rebuild the bike back up. i only replaced the clutch plate because both bike's needed the splines lubing. both bikes had just over 40.000 miles on and both bikes friction plates had about 0.70 mm wear difference from a brand new plate. so i cud of rebuilt them using the same friction plate and got another 40.000 mile out of them

 

[The Grey One]

only take 3 hours to change and rebuild the bike back up. i only replaced the clutch plate because both bike's needed the splines lubing. both bikes had just over 40.000 miles on and both bikes friction plates had about 0.70 mm wear difference from a brand new plate. so i cud of rebuilt them using the same friction plate and got another 40.000 mile out of them

I take my hat off to you if you can fit a new clutch into an 1150GS in three hours! You appear to be implying that the friction plate is the only wearing item. If this were the case then replacing the plate would be all that is ever needed.

John

 

[Steptoe]

I did the friction plate 14000 miles ago and still going strong so that's aload of bull

It isn't bull. And i wouldn't offer any advice on your experience of just one example.

You have been lucky or didn't have a slipping clutch to begin with. The metal pressure plate and cover plate get over heated and by simply fitting a new friction plate will mean doing the job again in 4-6k miles when it slips again. And if it does chances are you'll have to replace the "new" friction plate.

I'll only replace the complete clutch unit when doing a clutch change.
I will fit just a friction plate if the customer wants but offer no guarantee if it slips again within a few thousand miles.
If i fit a complete clutch unit then they're covered and it's all down to me

 

[uncle dick]

It isn't bull. And i wouldn't offer any advice on your experience of just one example.

You have been lucky or didn't have a slipping clutch to begin with. The metal pressure plate and cover plate get over heated and by simply fitting a new friction plate will mean doing the job again in 4-6k miles when it slips again. And if it does chances are you'll have to replace the "new" friction plate.

I'll only replace the complete clutch unit when doing a clutch change.
I will fit just a friction plate if the customer wants but offer no guarantee if it slips again within a few thousand miles.
If i fit a complete clutch unit then they're covered and it's all down to me

Apart from abuse, 99% of clutch failures are due to bearing or diaphragm problems. I'm with Steptoe on this one.

 

[Rugged Path]

I see on the Sherlocks website they are selling the complete clutch kit for £220 (Sachs parts).
Seems a good price

 

[The Grey One]

I see on the Sherlocks website they are selling the complete clutch kit for £220 (Sachs parts).
Seems a good price

So if you are doing it yourself you are only paying for the parts thus saving a big chunk of cash. Do it right first time and replace the lot.

John