nickr1200gs
Guest
...is it ok to do them on the GS? The manual says don't so I was just wondering why not. I've not had the bike long but so far very happy.
Room 101
Registered user
Hi there....
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68142&highlight=clutchless+gear+change
Thats one thread of many others under 'Search'... happy riding and reading...
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68142&highlight=clutchless+gear+change
Thats one thread of many others under 'Search'... happy riding and reading...
nickr1200gs
Guest
Err... sorry. Put it down to me being brand new to the forum.
Here's what you do. . . .
Quick . . . .
Dash over to the I'm New Here. . . section and post a quick hello before Tarka finds out you've started posting. He gets very upset at such things.
So - Welcome to the site.
BTW - I often change up on my 05 1200 but you do need to time it right, and roll back the throttle.
Quick . . . .
Dash over to the I'm New Here. . . section and post a quick hello before Tarka finds out you've started posting. He gets very upset at such things.
So - Welcome to the site.
BTW - I often change up on my 05 1200 but you do need to time it right, and roll back the throttle.
SpyInTheCamp
Registered user
Bottom line is that the bike reacts well to clutchless upshifts. Even first to second. I tend to use the clutch for first to second (and some other changes too). But most of the time when pressing on, I don't bother with it.
Just be positive with your left boot. Otherwise you'll find the dreaded neutrals. The worst of which lurks between 5th and top.
Kai
Just be positive with your left boot. Otherwise you'll find the dreaded neutrals. The worst of which lurks between 5th and top.
Kai
(RIP) Bin Ridin
Registered user
It beats me why anyone would do this in a non-racing environment. The clutch absorbs shocks as well as doin' the drive / no drive thing. God save us.
JFC
Registered user
read the instructions
and the manual says don't.....
Bin Ridin said:
and the manual says don't.....
read the instructionsJFC said:and the manual says don't.....
Never read that bit
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bin Ridin said:
I do cluchless changes on my 12 all the time. Been doing it from new never had a problem.
If you understand how to do them i.e. getting the throttle blip wright, it's possible to use this method from first up to top and then back down to first again. Even on the BM (I've done it on the 12 GS, 1150 GS adv, 1150 Rockster, 1200 RT, 1100 RT, 650GS, R80 RT, R100 RT, K75, and K100).
If you want to teach your self, the best bikes to do it on are Yamaha and Suzuki fours. They probably have the slickest boxes. The older Triumphs are the hardest, too much like tractors (No scrub that tractors are better).
I've used this method on every bike I've owned or ridden (shaft or chain drive, Belt drive Harlies too. Drag racing and courrier work, teaching or just playing) in the last 22 years at least. A bit over a million miles maybe more,(And thats just the bikes) and never broken one yet. Not had to replace any cluch plates either (Except in the drag bike when I tried automatic transmission fluid instead of gear oil). Two of the bikes I had, I put a combined 260'000 miles no, with no cluch or gear-box issues.
I've even done it in cars, vans and trucks (old trucks that is).
All ways have all ways will.
Go play, Have fun. Val. H.JFC
Registered user
[
I do cluchless changes on my 12 all the time. Been doing it from new never had a problem.
If you understand how to do them i.e. getting the throttle blip wright, it's possible to use this method from first up to top and then back down to first again. Even on the BM (I've done it on the 12 GS, 1150 GS adv, 1150 Rockster, 1200 RT, 1100 RT, 650GS, R80 RT, R100 RT, K75, and K100).
If you want to teach your self, the best bikes to do it on are Yamaha and Suzuki fours. They probably have the slickest boxes. The older Triumphs are the hardest, too much like tractors (No scrub that tractors are better).
I've used this method on every bike I've owned or ridden (shaft or chain drive, Belt drive Harlies too. Drag racing and courrier work, teaching or just playing) in the last 22 years at least. A bit over a million miles maybe more,(And thats just the bikes) and never broken one yet. Not had to replace any cluch plates either (Except in the drag bike when I tried automatic transmission fluid instead of gear oil). Two of the bikes I had, I put a combined 260'000 miles no, with no cluch or gear-box issues.
[/QUOTE]
WOW you must be really good....
I do cluchless changes on my 12 all the time. Been doing it from new never had a problem.
If you understand how to do them i.e. getting the throttle blip wright, it's possible to use this method from first up to top and then back down to first again. Even on the BM (I've done it on the 12 GS, 1150 GS adv, 1150 Rockster, 1200 RT, 1100 RT, 650GS, R80 RT, R100 RT, K75, and K100).
If you want to teach your self, the best bikes to do it on are Yamaha and Suzuki fours. They probably have the slickest boxes. The older Triumphs are the hardest, too much like tractors (No scrub that tractors are better).
I've used this method on every bike I've owned or ridden (shaft or chain drive, Belt drive Harlies too. Drag racing and courrier work, teaching or just playing) in the last 22 years at least. A bit over a million miles maybe more,(And thats just the bikes) and never broken one yet. Not had to replace any cluch plates either (Except in the drag bike when I tried automatic transmission fluid instead of gear oil). Two of the bikes I had, I put a combined 260'000 miles no, with no cluch or gear-box issues.
[/QUOTE]
WOW you must be really good....
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