Corrosion and hammerite - am I missing something

[adventuredon]

OK, so left footpeg is discoloured and brown with beginnings of rust. Right one a little discoloured but nothing serious, not peeling yet. Rear brake pedal is rusting, peeling and looks crap! Hammerite (from my quick research) shows I can get a tin for a tenner plus postage. Do I need the gel rust remover/primer/pre paint combo as well? If so, I can buy 2 foot rests, a gear lever and brake pedal for 39 quid posted from motoworks. Am I missing something? Or is it a case of just scrub off loose paint, paint over with hammerite?
It seems I'll end up with 3/4 of a tin that sits and goes old (no jokes re needing it for x y z soon). Or with equal faff I can just change the naughty bits. Or am I being too much of a consumer now and less of an enthusiast....?

 

[NeilCol]

OK, so left footpeg is discoloured and brown with beginnings of rust. Right one a little discoloured but nothing serious, not peeling yet. Rear brake pedal is rusting, peeling and looks crap! Hammerite (from my quick research) shows I can get a tin for a tenner plus postage. Do I need the gel rust remover/primer/pre paint combo as well? If so, I can buy 2 foot rests, a gear lever and brake pedal for 39 quid posted from motoworks. Am I missing something? Or is it a case of just scrub off loose paint, paint over with hammerite?
It seems I'll end up with 3/4 of a tin that sits and goes old (no jokes re needing it for x y z soon). Or with equal faff I can just change the naughty bits. Or am I being too much of a consumer now and less of an enthusiast....?

For me, it makes no sense to mess about painting them when new are that cheap.
I reckon you will have them fitted inside 20 mins, while it would take much longer to get a decent finish by painting.

Replace all day long

 

[AberdeenAngus]

Fecking wasteful society.
Get a dab of paint on them. You'll take pride in a job well done and a few bob saved.
Hammerite is self priming. Just make sure the parts are cleanish and remove any flaking paint with a wire brush.
When finished, make sure the tin is closed properly, then give it a shake to make a seal. It'll keep for years.
Hammerite needs specially brush cleaner. If you don't want to splash out on that too, then don't bother, use a 50p brush and bin it after. If you want to keep a brush for a few days without cleaning it, wrap the wet end in cling film and pop it in the fridge.
Id recommend Hammerite Smooth 'direct to rust', its about £8:50 in B&Q and you can get a cheap brush while you're there.

 

[adventuredon]

ok, so do i just buy hammerite silver? what product is it? sealer/gel/pre etc... there are so many products out there...

 

[twizzle]

Hammerite.... Is a right if passage...life is not complete without a tin or two.....I love the stuff....

 

[twizzle]

ok, so do i just buy hammerite silver? what product is it? sealer/gel/pre etc... there are so many products out there...

Silver Hammerite.. That's it... Simple.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Hammerite-M...1&cadevice=t&gclid=CMT4zpyT8L4CFWnpwgodx6UAcw

 

[Shep]

Silver Hammerite smooth!!! Don't use any other anti rust under it it has its own.

 

[cammy5477]

New parts all day long for me it's a no brainer

 

[Bendy toy]

Ive never had any success with the stuff. But it's not too costly and the powder coater's grit blaster soon gets it off.


Sent from a widget that can't spell.

 

[malcopopolo]

I have used the spray hamerite on vfr800 forks, fantastic result. take time to ensure surfaces clean and smooth. (wet and dry) Also ensure the metal is warm, use a hair dryer if must be. Warm not hot. Another tip is to stand the spray can in in a bowl of hot water to pre warm the paint.

 

[bikemad]

Petrol works to clean brushes when using hammerite Iv sprayed a few wheels frames etc it lasts well if prepped well ideally done in summer

 

[GrumpyTwo]

I can buy 2 foot rests, a gear lever and brake pedal for 39 quid posted from motoworks. Am I missing something?

Yes, that price is for second-hand parts (Motorworks are quoting £34 for a used rear brake lever) with no guarantee they would be in any better condition than the ones you have.
New parts would run to about £150, buy the paint or better still get them powder coated.

 

[Bendy toy]

Ive never had any success with the stuff. But it's not too costly and the powder coater's grit blaster soon gets it off.

My issue with Hammerite is that it gets ever harder over time, eventually getting brittle. Ive used it on bike footrests, exhaust hangers and frame down-tubes. They look great for a while and seem to be tough. But, after a few months they suddenly get pockmarked with stone chips because the paint has gone too hard. The hammered version has also rusted through where it naturally thins to give the hammered finish.

SO I now pay the little extra and get things powder coated. Its not the "be all and end all" but it's a lot tougher than Hammerite. Ive not tried things like POR-15 as used by classic car restorers. Its said to be fantastic and remains tough over time, but so costly its cheaper to use powder coat.

Powder has some big advantages.
Shot/grit blasting cleans out a lot more rust than any hand or powered wire brush.
It also cleans off mill-scale not previously removed by the factory especially around welds
Zinc passivate is used on ferrous parts.
The curing oven dries out any remaining specs of oxide so rust cant continue growing
The finish seals the metal with an even coat.
Its cheap. At least the guys I've used are great value.

 

[adventuredon]

Well, bit the bullet and got a small tin of smooth silver paint. Will be de-flaking and smoothing the offending parts this week-end hopefully. A local powder coating place quoted me £25 per part. Said I'd try Hammerite myself first. If its a massive bodge, I'll look more into powder coating or buyingGOOD known mileage items. Thanks all, will let you know how a novice (mwah) gets on!

 

[Shep]

Powder has some big advantages.
Shot/grit blasting cleans out a lot more rust than any hand or powered wire brush.
It also cleans off mill-scale not previously removed by the factory especially around welds
Zinc passivate is used on ferrous parts.
The curing oven dries out any remaining specs of oxide so rust cant continue growing
The finish seals the metal with an even coat.
Its cheap. At least the guys I've used are great value.

Sounds like most of those advantages are down to the proper preparation pre coating, if you sandblast and dry prior to application of Hammerite it too can last ages, i'm my humble opinion Hammerite's worst feature is the need to overcoat with Hammerite again or else risk a mismatch. Powder coating is a nightmare if chipped or marked with no real effective repair apart from stripping and reapplication of the powder coat

I don't mind powdercoat but i'd not use it in a place thats prone to damage (foot rests, stands etc)

 

[steve g]

I use Hammerite silver smooth, its a perfect match for the frame on my XR400

 

[Rockred]

And to clean the brush afterwards just dip it in the petrol tank, what could be easer ?......

 

[Bendy toy]

Sounds like most of those advantages are down to the proper preparation pre coating, if you sandblast and dry prior to application of Hammerite it too can last ages, i'm my humble opinion Hammerite's worst feature is the need to overcoat with Hammerite again or else risk a mismatch. Powder coating is a nightmare if chipped or marked with no real effective repair apart from stripping and reapplication of the powder coat

I don't mind powdercoat but i'd not use it in a place thats prone to damage (foot rests, stands etc)

I used powder exactly because Hammerite wasn't up to the task. The metal has been angle grinder wire brush prepped, primed with Hammerite over their primer primer. Another job was grit blasted with a spot blaster. I also used Hammerite onto similarly prepped bare metal. Every time it was fine for a few weeks then chipped as it age hardened.

Everything will chip eventually but powder, done properly has been the best option Ive found. The only way to fully protect a centre stand is hot dip galvanise or make one from stainless.

 

[adventuredon]

Well took the footrest and sidestand off this morning. Used wire brush, fine sand paper and some hammerite rust removal. Peg came up clean after their rust removal stuff but it does say rust will return. So painted it with smooth silver. Looks okay but not new or perfect. Sprayed the side stand and that is looking much better. Will not be using paint but rather spraying as it a better finish

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[pberrey]

I've used plenty of satin black smooth Hammerite, Chassis Black (POR or Eastwood, can't remember) and POR-15 on various Defender and Landcruiser chassis. POR-15 is mega stuff and likes to be applied in damp conditions which is handy for the UK but it is extremely nasty to work with. Its also not UV stable so needs a top coat - that is why I have some Chassis Black left over. I also tried an unbranded mild etching chassis black that I brought from a Land Rover show but I cant say that it stuck on Ally any better than unprimed Hammerite.

Six years ago I took all of the removable bits on my 06 GSA off and blasted and powder coated them. Powder coating is easy but it cannot be touched up when it chips so that means removing the part again. For simplicity I like Hammerite thinned down 60/40 with white spirit for spraying but I've just painted my BMW ally panniers in 50/50 thinned satin black high temp enamel paint which has come out fine.

Don't forget to acid etch your ally before you spray it with anything or it will come off. Acid8 etch primer, smooth satin Hammerite and satin high temp enamel paint is available from Halfords which is also handy. Frost.co.uk is a good source for Eastwood and POR products.