Karlread
Registered user
3 days with my latest one.
Corrosion : yes or no ?
- Thread starter SMcGirr
- Start date
sk8mutie
Registered user
I took my bike in last Tuesday for the dealership to take pictures and send them off. Got a call the next day to say it would be done, but not until end of August when they get the new engine in.
So servicing...with a new engine, you will have the running in period and then a service at 600 miles. Who's covering the cost of that if you weren't due a service for a while? I think I'll be about 1K from the 6k service, so if I have to pay for it, it'll be cheaper than the upcoming 6k service i was originally due. Just a thought!!
So servicing...with a new engine, you will have the running in period and then a service at 600 miles. Who's covering the cost of that if you weren't due a service for a while? I think I'll be about 1K from the 6k service, so if I have to pay for it, it'll be cheaper than the upcoming 6k service i was originally due. Just a thought!!
Karlread
Registered user
My dealer said the 600 running in service will be free so that is £60 you will not have to fork out for oil. Unfortunately, I have just had my 6000 service but it was free oil for that month.
sk8mutie
Registered user
Cheers Karlread. Hardly a bank breaker, but £60 is £60!!
I've just had the call from BMW that I'm getting my engine, swingarm, driveshaft and centre stand replaced.
600 mile service is covered by them also.
It's a bit shit considering in no time at all it'll be back for another replacement. I'm thinking a venture back into the Japanese bike market may be in order. The MT-10 is looking quite good.
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600 mile service is covered by them also.
It's a bit shit considering in no time at all it'll be back for another replacement. I'm thinking a venture back into the Japanese bike market may be in order. The MT-10 is looking quite good.
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Karlread
Registered user
Thought about chopping the R1200RT LC in for an FJR1200 but preferred the RT sadly.
helisupp
Registered user
I have the 1200GS LC (no corrosion) and also have the MT10, the MT10 is not really a good replacement for the GS. if you are on a 200 mile ride in the twisties you will:
A) definitely feel it in your wrist (hard braking) and neck (no wind protection at speed) in the morning.
B) no pillion seat to speak of
C) 70-80 miles before fill ups
Plus as soon as you get on the MT I am sure you turn into a more aggressive rider.
I agree with your point about not being a good direct replacement. Ideally I'd like to stick with the GSA but I've little confidence in the quality unfortunately. The lack of pillion capability is a negative (for the mrs) 
I guess it depends if I receive a fresh warranty on the replacement parts, as I don't fancy returning to the dealer next year with the same issue to be told it's out of warranty, I'm on my own.
Time will tell.
I guess it depends if I receive a fresh warranty on the replacement parts, as I don't fancy returning to the dealer next year with the same issue to be told it's out of warranty, I'm on my own.
Time will tell.
sk8mutie
Registered user
Stevemoid,
My centre stand is rusty as well...never even thought to mention it to be honest as I thought they would just tell me it was fair wear and tear!!
Have you any pics of the location of the corrosion on the swingarm? And did you ask the dealership to look at the driveshaft or did you have a look yourself?? If my engine is to come out anyway, I may ask them to have a look and if nothing else, grease it for me.
My centre stand is rusty as well...never even thought to mention it to be honest as I thought they would just tell me it was fair wear and tear!!
Have you any pics of the location of the corrosion on the swingarm? And did you ask the dealership to look at the driveshaft or did you have a look yourself?? If my engine is to come out anyway, I may ask them to have a look and if nothing else, grease it for me.
Karlread
Registered user
Check at the back of the swing arm at the bottom (the end near the final drive) lift the rubber boots and check under there as well. You could if you get the chance go and see them off the bike when the dealer does the engine replacement.
sk8mutie
Registered user
Corrosion and other anomolies
I wish I'd not bothered to go out....I've taken a load of pics that'll bore the hind legs off a donkey, but your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
The order of the pics is a bit random, so I'll try and explain as best I can.
The first pic is the fiche of the rear wheel fork and I've marked an arrow above the number 5 that indicates where the 3rd and 4th pics relate to. Should that be there? It doesn't look or feel smooth. In fact, the edge closest to the camera is rather sharp and can't be doing the rubber boot any good.
The 2nd pic is where the final drive meets the rear wheel fork as viewed from the underside. There's a few 'white' markings on the paint, but it's the rough edge that looks 'chipped' from bottom centre to about third of the way up the pic. Again, should I be concerned?
And finally, the last pic....I think it speaks for itself unless someone tells me that's a casting flaw rather than corrosion setting in.
I wish I'd not bothered to go out....I've taken a load of pics that'll bore the hind legs off a donkey, but your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
The order of the pics is a bit random, so I'll try and explain as best I can.
The first pic is the fiche of the rear wheel fork and I've marked an arrow above the number 5 that indicates where the 3rd and 4th pics relate to. Should that be there? It doesn't look or feel smooth. In fact, the edge closest to the camera is rather sharp and can't be doing the rubber boot any good.
The 2nd pic is where the final drive meets the rear wheel fork as viewed from the underside. There's a few 'white' markings on the paint, but it's the rough edge that looks 'chipped' from bottom centre to about third of the way up the pic. Again, should I be concerned?
And finally, the last pic....I think it speaks for itself unless someone tells me that's a casting flaw rather than corrosion setting in.
Attachments
Steviej4558
Registered user
Cheers for the info guys, not heard from the dealer and it's been a month so I think a phone call tomorrow is in order! Once again Cheers
Karlread
Registered user
Sadly, the usual areas for corrosion. I can only suggest when the new parts are fitted, you either:
1, sell the bike and try to find a make/model that doesn't rot as quickly
2, get it ACF50'd then go over it with some Bilthamber Dynax UC
sk8mutie
Registered user
Karlread, what about pics 3 and 4...that is impact damage of some sort. Very bizarre.
I bought ACF the day I picked the bike up and soaked it with it.
But the bike stays. I love the GS. I shattered my wrists 16 yrs ago and this bike allows me to ride.
I had 2 Guzzis before and needed reliability, hence a German bike!!
sk8mutie
I bought ACF the day I picked the bike up and soaked it with it.
But the bike stays. I love the GS. I shattered my wrists 16 yrs ago and this bike allows me to ride.
I had 2 Guzzis before and needed reliability, hence a German bike!!
sk8mutie
Karlread
Registered user
3 and 4 certainly look like an impact. Interestingly, I went into the BMW Motorrad dealer in Neumunster today whilst the wife went shopping with the kids. They had a 2014 R1200rt lc in there having done 26,000 MK's and a number of used 1200 LC G S's with silver engine. Mileage from 4000-16000 no corrosion at all on the 2013 bikes!
Moose
Registered user
I read somewhere else that although other European countries have snow and ice, they use a different road grit concoction to what UK seem to use. The stuff we is is far more corrosive.
Maybe we should get a petition going to force the UK government to abide by EU rules whilst we can!
Karlread
Registered user
According to the chap from BMW whom I spoke to at motorrad days in Garmisch, he said customers in Europe don't ride their bikes if there is a chance of salt on the road. He also said that th corrosion problem appeared to be confined to the UK and added that it coukd not be expected that you wash your bike every time without fail if you use it in the winter. Problem is, if you get a zero cost invoice for the replacement engine, swing arm, final drive etc it is only covered for the period of the original warranty. The new RT's they had in the show room had silver engines, the black engined RT's are unique to the UK.
sk8mutie
Registered user
Although the bike was registered Nov 14, to me, it's only 8 months old as I bought it at Xmas past from the dealer having covered 260 miles. I'm a bit annoyed that it's corroded at all, but more than happy with the outcome so far.
Need to take it in for more photos and a new case to be raised for the additional stuff, but if after 22 months and sitting at 4400 miles (with a quick visit home to Ireland tomorrow), they're going to be putting a new engine plus other bits I hope, then I won't be complaining.
I will do the same as I did when I picked it up and ACF it, but to be honest, having read the issues with the paint/machining process, I half expect it to corrode again. Only time will tell, and I appreciate there will be no such replacement if it happens a second time.
One thing I won't be doing is looking for a replacement for the GS. Regardless of the corrosion issues, I won't be dissuaded from owning as many more as my body will allow...lets hope they figure out the paint process as at 8K a pop, this can only be benefiting the customers!!
Need to take it in for more photos and a new case to be raised for the additional stuff, but if after 22 months and sitting at 4400 miles (with a quick visit home to Ireland tomorrow), they're going to be putting a new engine plus other bits I hope, then I won't be complaining.
I will do the same as I did when I picked it up and ACF it, but to be honest, having read the issues with the paint/machining process, I half expect it to corrode again. Only time will tell, and I appreciate there will be no such replacement if it happens a second time.
One thing I won't be doing is looking for a replacement for the GS. Regardless of the corrosion issues, I won't be dissuaded from owning as many more as my body will allow...lets hope they figure out the paint process as at 8K a pop, this can only be benefiting the customers!!
Karlread
Registered user
One tip for the machined edges where the moisture gets in and lifts the paint, get a pot of clear lacquer and a very fine model making brush (preferably a "0") and coat all of the edges with the lacquer, it will help seal them. Did them with my final drive and swing arm and they are still ok!
I have a 2014 GS with 13k on it and it's into BMW at the end of this week for the following replacement parts due to corrosion:
-Front wheel
-Rear wheel (it's already been replaced once already for corrosion)
-Rocker covers
It's also in for a replacement rear ESA shock due to excessive play at the bottom mount and new left side switchgear..
In the three months it's taken for the parts to become available (!) I now also have corrosion on the swingarm under the rubber bush for the final drive coupling and also the beginnings of the dreaded white bubbling on the rear of the final drive itself. The dealer is going to take a look at that while the bike is with them although I am now out of the manufacturers warranty. The bike gets regularly washed, treated with ACF50 etc.
So, at least some of the parts will be replaced, if I'm lucky i might get some goodwill on the others. I know though that whatever they replace them with will also likely corrode in the near future and it'll no doubt not be long til the paint on my engine also starts to suffer.
Does anyone have a view on what the repair options are outside of the warranty period? Is there a reasonably effective touch up paint that can be used?
I'd consider trading in against a later model if I thought the finish would be any better but I am not convinced that's the case. Currently browsing bike trader looking at possible moves away from BMW also.
-Front wheel
-Rear wheel (it's already been replaced once already for corrosion)
-Rocker covers
It's also in for a replacement rear ESA shock due to excessive play at the bottom mount and new left side switchgear..
In the three months it's taken for the parts to become available (!) I now also have corrosion on the swingarm under the rubber bush for the final drive coupling and also the beginnings of the dreaded white bubbling on the rear of the final drive itself. The dealer is going to take a look at that while the bike is with them although I am now out of the manufacturers warranty. The bike gets regularly washed, treated with ACF50 etc.
So, at least some of the parts will be replaced, if I'm lucky i might get some goodwill on the others. I know though that whatever they replace them with will also likely corrode in the near future and it'll no doubt not be long til the paint on my engine also starts to suffer.
Does anyone have a view on what the repair options are outside of the warranty period? Is there a reasonably effective touch up paint that can be used?
I'd consider trading in against a later model if I thought the finish would be any better but I am not convinced that's the case. Currently browsing bike trader looking at possible moves away from BMW also.
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