Drive shaft failure

[dub 24]

Had a drive shaft failure on my running bike recently and replaced the drive shaft, swing arm and also the swing arm and para lever bearings. I have a couple of concerns I am hoping you good folk can address.

This is the procedure myself and Hatcho followed when installing the swing arm and para lever bearings and am hoping we got it right.

I installed the right fixed pin hand tight then the left adjustable pivot pin hand tight. I then went to torque the right fixed pin but couldn't get it to come close to the torque setting of 160nm for fear of stripping the threads, so we backed it off and eventually got it to 100nm is this enough ?. Have we done something wrong ?


The adjustable pins I torqued to 9nm as per Chris harris's advice and the advice of a bloke I know from BMW as They maintained 7nm isn't enough.
I know all the manuals and info here say 7nm for the swing arm and para lever or as advised here until no play is detected in the wheel with the para lever bearings will it make a difference and is 9nm to tight. ?

The 30mm lock nut again we couldn't get it close to 160nm so settled on 100nm.

I didn't use any thread lock as from personal experience and from reading here it's a pain to remove and also makes periodic adjustment a lot harder so just went with witness marks on all the bolts.

Also can some one point me in the right direction for Steptoe's sticky for checking/ changing the bearings. I couldn't find it for love nor money

Any advice, criticism and slagging as always is greatly appreciated. .

I have attached photos of the damaged swing arm and drive shaft.

Cheers
Dub 24

 

[Ian J Hartley]

I don’t do mine up to the recommended torque.

About 100Nm for the fixed pin and locking nut, and I don’t use thread lock either. But what I do do is put a witness mark on the nut and casing with an indelible pen so that I can see visually if the nuts have moved. Then never have so far.

Ian

 

[dub 24]

I don’t do mine up to the recommended torque.

About 100Nm for the fixed pin and locking nut, and I don’t use thread lock either. But what I do do is put a witness mark on the nut and casing with an indelible pen so that I can see visually if the nuts have moved. Then never have so far.

Ian

Thanks Ian for confirming that . In your opinion is 9nm ok for the adjustable pin or should i back it off to 7nm. There is no lateral movement in the wheel.

Cheers
Ollie

 

[Slipperyeel]

I think when I did mine I bumped into exactly the same anxiety of trying to reach 160nm. And like you, I stopped short (I think 120nm). But I did use threadlock. My thinking was, if i did need to adjust the nut, then applying some heat would not be an issue.

In practice, it remained perfect the whole time I had the bike, but then sold it. I'd like to think it's as it was back then. Oh, I used the bushes instead of the OEM bearings.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[dub 24]

Cheers slippery eel thanks for your reply

 

[Irishdude]

I just did mine to what ever the Haynes manual said

 

[dub 24]

Cheers Irishdude

 

[mspenz]

I've done quite a few now, both swingarm and bevel box pivots ( I have 2 x 1150s ) and have always torqued both the fixed pin and lock nut to 160nm on a dry thread. Adjust the floating pin until the play disappears which can be anything between 7 & 12nm.
Leaving them at 100nm might cause more damage to the threads.