Driveshaft Check?

[GlynnJ]

I recently acquired a 2011 twin cam with 13,000 miles on the clock. It runs great, with no clunks from the drivetrain. However, I have read about issues with the driveshaft on the 1200 (though maybe not this model?) and, given the bike will be off the road until spring, I'm wondering if I should be checking the driveshaft splines for premature wear?

The boots are intact, and the bike is in fabulous condition leading me to believe it's had an easy life. So no reason to investigate the shaft other than having the time to do so. That said, I reckon best left alone if it's not required.

What's the collective wisdom on this?

 

[Flintlock]

The original shaft on my 2010 GSA TC gave up at 75,000 miles, so reckon you should be good for a while yet.

 

[GlynnJ]

The original shaft on my 2010 GSA TC gave up at 75,000 miles, so reckon you should be good for a while yet.

Encouraging. Thanks

 

[Mistacat]

My TC driveshaft has done over 103K miles ,if you have time grease the splines.

 

[wessie]

there is a service bulletin on the driveshaft for later models with the liquid cooled engine. Replaced free of charge every 37500 miles with recommendation to lube the splines in the 12k service.

 

[GlynnJ]

there is a service bulletin on the driveshaft for later models with the liquid cooled engine. Replaced free of charge every 37500 miles with recommendation to lube the splines in the 12k service.

Yes, I had seen that. Does the spline lubrication at 12k apply to the TC?


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[wessie]

Yes, I had seen that. Does the spline lubrication at 12k apply to the TC?


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No idea. I received a letter about my 2016 R1200RS with a revised service schedule. Last May, Sytner in Shrewsbury fitted a new shaft for me free of charge with the 36k service.

You will need to check your handbook to see if it was in the original TC service schedule, or if a later service bulletin was issued. A TC owner will be along soon...

 

[Slipperyeel]

Your first action should be to drain the FD and look at the fluid for clarity/metal content etc. Once drained, lower the FD and look at the UJ at that end. Feel its movement, checking for notchiness (is that a word?!). But obviously you'll be able to eyeball the general condition of it all.

Get yourself some Staburags sealing paste - don't go for white lithium grease, which is simply not the same stuff. You'll need this after cleaning the concertina gaiter and refitting it. Don't be fooled by a clean looking gaiter. It's no assurance water isn't finding it's way in, especially if it was a long time since the FD was dropped and checked.

These bikes are really great and endure some degree of abuse so I suspect all is good. But if it's new to you, it's suggest you want to bond with that drive train as regular servicing will ensure they're are no surprises

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[GlynnJ]

Your first action should be to drain the FD and look at the fluid for clarity/metal content etc. Once drained, lower the FD and look at the UJ at that end. Feel its movement, checking for notchiness (is that a word?!). But obviously you'll be able to eyeball the general condition of it all.

Get yourself some Staburags sealing paste - don't go for white lithium grease, which is simply not the same stuff. You'll need this after cleaning the concertina gaiter and refitting it. Don't be fooled by a clean looking gaiter. It's no assurance water isn't finding it's way in, especially if it was a long time since the FD was dropped and checked.

These bikes are really great and endure some degree of abuse so I suspect all is good. But if it's new to you, it's suggest you want to bond with that drive train as regular servicing will ensure they're are no surprises

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Thank you.

Given the mileage I wouldn’t be surprised if the FD has never been apart. I know the FD & Gearbox oil were changed at around 8k two years ago, but no idea if there were any issues.

Are you saying to look at the FD end UJ first, and if it’s ok don’t worry about the gearbox end?


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[Mr Bean]

Mine snapped whilst filtering at speed on the M25, locking the back wheel...

 

[Flintlock]

It was the gearbox end went on mine - rapid loss of power, but no seizure.

 

[GlynnJ]

Mine snapped whilst filtering at speed on the M25, locking the back wheel...

A twin cam?


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[Slipperyeel]

Thank you.

Given the mileage I wouldn’t be surprised if the FD has never been apart. I know the FD & Gearbox oil were changed at around 8k two years ago, but no idea if there were any issues.

Are you saying to look at the FD end UJ first, and if it’s ok don’t worry about the gearbox end?


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I'd definitely be changing all the fluids on a bike 'new to me'. Half peace of mind but also a nice way to walk around the bike and get to know it.

You will get other views, so gather them and make your own decisions, but sure, check the UJ that's easy - the FD end of course. But if the gearbox is in neutral, you can gently rotate the shaft and get an indication of the gearbox end.

For what it's worth, on my own twin cam that is mostly used as a commuting tool to Italy and back, has done about 56k miles. It's a good apple. Really great bike. I did however note that the UJ on the FD end has developed a little bump in its movement. Not quite a 'notch' but clearly its heading there. Motorworks sell a serviceable replacement, which looks like the only sensible option. It's eye wateringly expensive but still half the OEM non serviceable unit!!

This is one of those critical components along with the FD. You can't really F with it. There's only the right way or...!

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[GlynnJ]

I'd definitely be changing all the fluids on a bike 'new to me'. Half peace of mind but also a nice way to walk around the bike and get to know it.

You will get other views, so gather them and make your own decisions, but sure, check the UJ that's easy - the FD end of course. But if the gearbox is in neutral, you can gently rotate the shaft and get an indication of the gearbox end.

For what it's worth, on my own twin cam that is mostly used as a commuting tool to Italy and back, has done about 56k miles. It's a good apple. Really great bike. I did however note that the UJ on the FD end has developed a little bump in its movement. Not quite a 'notch' but clearly its heading there. Motorworks sell a serviceable replacement, which looks like the only sensible option. It's eye wateringly expensive but still half the OEM non serviceable unit!!

This is one of those critical components along with the FD. You can't really F with it. There's only the right way or...!

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Thanks. Changing the fluids was already on my to do list, so I’ll ad the FD UJ check.


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[Pale Rider]

Also, if when you drain the final drive oil it could come out very cloudy or even black in appearance, I found this with Castrol but since switching over to Lucas fully synthetic it comes out as clean as it was when it was put in. Also replace with 200ml of GL5 and not 4 or 4/5. Very important!

 

[Popell]

When I changed the fd lub on my 05, it came out stinking, very sulphur-ey.
I seem to recall that the amount required was reduced to 180ml rather than 200. Worth checking latest info

 

[Mistacat]

The bike is a 2011 TC so the final drive is a lot different to the earlier units.
They now have a breather fitted and the wheel side output bearing is now in the oil bath not a 2rs bearing lubricated for life !!!.
I use 200ml the earlier FD was reduced to 180 ml to stop the seal weeping as no breather.

 

[Stevie4scoops]

there is a service bulletin on the driveshaft for later models with the liquid cooled engine. Replaced free of charge every 37500 miles with recommendation to lube the splines in the 12k service.

I greased the rear spline on my 2018 LC 11k miles ago shortly after buying it and again recently. It wasn't dry when I did it recently but I'm pleased I did it.

 

[Stevie4scoops]

When I changed the fd lub on my 05, it came out stinking, very sulphur-ey.
I seem to recall that the amount required was reduced to 180ml rather than 200. Worth checking latest info

Previously FD oil has been black and stunk after 6k miles but when I changed it recently after 5k miles it was as clean as when it went in. I was tempted to put it back in because it seemed a waste changing it.

 

[GlynnJ]

The bike is a 2011 TC so the final drive is a lot different to the earlier units.
They now have a breather fitted and the wheel side output bearing is now in the oil bath not a 2rs bearing lubricated for life !!!.
I use 200ml the earlier FD was reduced to 180 ml to stop the seal weeping as no breather.

Thanks for the info.

What I am really trying to find out is if there's any worthwhile preventative maintenance that I can do to 'save' the driveshaft. Greasing the splines doesn't feature in the service schedule for this bike and the horror stories mostly refer to later bikes that benefited from the driveshaft exchange. I can, of course, pull the whole thing apart. But doing so will disturb things that might be better left undisturbed if, in fact, it wasn't necessary. A Catch-22, I guess. But just wondering if routine greasing is necessary...