Driveshaft failure - with photos

[alex_rsa]

I originally thought the gearbox output shaft bearing or the front driveshaft UJ had failed as the vibration was under my feet.

Noticed the rear rubber cover has moved so pried it open a bit further and I could see the damage to the UJ.

Dropped the final drive down and the back of the driveshaft came with it!

What was amazing was the bike was still rideable at low speeds

Few chaffe marks inside the case

End of the driveshaft with something missing

Oh, there it is!

Had very little warning anything was a problem. Had a slight tingling vibration for the last few days on overrun and them last night it got worse.

The shaft is very rusty on the failed side but as it is open to spray from the underneath there is not much you can do.

Sherlocks are sending me another shaft so should be back on the road at the weekend.

 

[davedyer]

What's the mileage?

 

[flatdog]

Water ingress........I thought the rubber boot was meant to protect the shaft from this. Anyway seeing as there are no lube points on the UJ's for regreasing in this event, I'd be sceptical if the boot was designed to let it in.?

Lucky escape anyway, that could have been a lot worse at speed.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Since you have closed your other thread can you tell us how long ago in time your final drive was replaced and did your mechanic make any comments regarding the condition of your UJ?

 

[cookie]

Water ingress........I thought the rubber boot was meant to protect the shaft from this. Anyway seeing as there are no lube points on the UJ's for regreasing in this event, I'd be sceptical if the boot was designed to let it in.?

Lucky escape anyway, that could have been a lot worse at speed.

The boot is just pushed up against the swing arm. It would keep most water out, but I wouldn't want to submerge it.

 

[flatdog]

The boot is just pushed up against the swing arm. It would keep most water out, but I wouldn't want to submerge it.

Well thats just bloody crap then, if water gets in, then it should have a drainage facility.
My 1150 with 85k miles with original propshaft and uj's still looks like new.

Condition of that propshaft should have been noted/rectified 2k ago when the rear hub was changed - how did the mechanic miss that.

 

[steveh]

my drive shaft is original (39k) and it looks nothing like that !

 

[alex_rsa]

Final drive was replaced by BMW about 4 months ago. As you do not need to pull the driveshaft out to change the FD, I bet it was never looked at.

Also I changed the clutch about 8 months ago and didn't notice anything amiss and I did see the driveshaft.

Besides it being rusty there is not much else to show wear.

Bike is on 73000 miles and has been through 6 winters so there is a fair amount of corrosion.

The rubber boot is in place but damp will find its way ns as the swivel point underneath is exposed to the road. You just need to look at all the crud inside the driveshaft tube to see what is being kicked up.

Only advice I have is if your driveshaft is rusty get the joints rebuilt!

 

[Steptoe]

.

Condition of that propshaft should have been noted/rectified 2k ago when the rear hub was changed - how did the mechanic miss that.

I did a clutch on a 1200 last week with 68K miles on it - the F/D end of the drive shaft was rusty as feck but the U/J was in perfect condition.

But i have had a couple of 1200GS's in with drive shafts broken at the rear U/J. One low mileage and the other around 20K miles if i remember correctly ( it was a couple of years ago ).

 

[flatdog]

I did a clutch on a 1200 last week with 68K miles on it - the F/D end of the drive shaft was rusty as feck but the U/J was in perfect condition.

But i have had a couple of 1200GS's in with drive shafts broken at the rear U/J. One low mileage and the other around 20K miles if i remember correctly ( it was a couple of years ago ).

Whew, the price we pay for progress hey, well at least it looks like you indies are going to be busy when all these model improvements need replacing.

 

[Blobby]

Vaguely wondered what was inside that shiny silver thing which holds the back wheel on Now I know. Bit obvious really. For a bike that's supposed to be v capable off road, I'm surprised it's suffered so badly.

 

[Pauly S]

shiny new

I did a full engine rebuild on a 1200 last week, and the bike has 20k on it.The driveshaft looked like brand new.
I guess if you go fording and such stuff, you can expect things like this.
I would say the driveshaft tunnel is water resistant, not water proof.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

The boot is just pushed up against the swing arm. It would keep most water out, but I wouldn't want to submerge it.

Wot............ no zip ties or bands

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

IThe driveshaft looked like brand new.

I guess if you go fording and such stuff, you can expect things like this.

I would say the driveshaft tunnel is water resistant, not water proof.

Maybe or maybe not on these but, I removed 2/3 of a pint of muddy Derbyshire water from my airbox recently and found no evidence of the afore mentioned aqueous solution within my swinging arm when replacing those seals in my Final drive, which you know about.

Wot............ no zip ties or bands

I've seen gaffer tape...

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

Typical isn't it? Why there isn't a greaser on that joint I'll never know. There is no such thing as maintenance-free hardy spicers/uj's. A couple of pumps from a grease gun and the jobs a good 'un. Last forever. The only reason (apart from abuse and manfacturing fault) for a u/j to fail is lack of lubricant. Both my Guzzi and the Defender have greasers on them, in fact there's more on the Guzzi than on the Land Rover, per propshaft!
Interesting to know if you can replace the originals with nippled ones on the 1200's. Be a job worth doing if you can.

Fluff

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

I did a clutch on a 1200 last week with 68K miles on it - the F/D end of the drive shaft was rusty as feck but the U/J was in perfect condition.

But i have had a couple of 1200GS's in with drive shafts broken at the rear U/J. One low mileage and the other around 20K miles if i remember correctly ( it was a couple of years ago ).

Neil,

Can you replace the u/j in the 1200's or is it a seled unit (god forbid). Be interesting to source a nippled version. I ought to look at my GSA to find that out myself but the garage is out in the cold !

Fluff

 

[cookie]

Wot............ no zip ties or bands

That is correct. Fine for the road, but water would probably get in if submerged. I'd have thought it would drain out mostly too.

Getting the driveshaft wet shouldn't be too much of an issue though. Cars don't have sealed props and guzzi had exposed shafts for a while recently.

Since i don't believe that mine is in any way a dirt bike, I don't much care about its fording ability

 

[Pauly S]

Thats because

Maybe or maybe not on these but, I removed 2/3 of a pint of muddy Derbyshire water from my airbox recently and found no evidence of the afore mentioned aqueous solution within my swinging arm when replacing those seals in my Final drive, which you know about.


Thats because you have an 1150..

 

[G5RJO]

UJ part numbers.....

UJ's are standard 19mm cup 48 span.

Bailey Morris 460 or elbe 106 is what you need. Yes, you can lube them!!! Specify end lube, NOT centre lube.

Cups are staked in at manufacture, removing is not really an issue. I'm working on a plan re how to re-secure cups. They can be re-staked or held with circlips.

Hope this helps..... Two new UJ's are certainly a LOT cheaper than a new shaft unit.

Roger.

 

[wust588]

I've never understood why modern BMW propshafts don't have some sort of lubrication. I suppose an oil bath would be out of the question due to the extreme angle of the propshaft.
A couple of grease nipples would help though.