Driveshaft Lubrication and other servicing tasks

MondoRich

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Any thoughts on how often the final drive should be dropped, splines cleaned and regreased?

It doesn't appear anywhere on the service sheets.

Is there anything else not on the service sheets that we should be doing?

Thanks
 
Check all fd rubber gaiters including ball joint one on front. Clean and lube brakes

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
 
Don't know but seems excessive ????????

On the older bikes the final drive had to be dropped to release the oil, on the newer ones there is a fill and drain plug.
I do it as it's worth dropping the final drive to make sure the rubber gators arn't full of water and also to check the u.j's

So may as well grease the splines at the same time
 
Would a main dealer drop the final drive on a LC to grease the splines ?
 
That's a good question, it's not on a service sheet but it's not their bike.
 
My gaiter leaked. There is no drain hole. So there is no escape for the water. Caused corrosion, and failure of the drive shaft to final drive coupling. Resulting in total failure of drive. Required complete new transmission to rear of gear box - drive shaft, drive shaft casing, final drive; thankfully all under warranty. I dread to think what that would have cost out of warranty. So lifting gaiter and checking for water ingress is a good idea, as is lubricating the splines.

Video is bike in gear, clutch out !


 
What lube would you recommend for the splines?

You need to use a grease named Stabarag - its a specialist 'anti fling' grease Moly is no good as too light Stabarag is the BMW recommended grease. dropping the rear end is easy, remove rear wheel / calliper / ABS sensor (plug with a rag to prevent leaks) remove link arm rear bolt & lower the shaft body. Shaft can then be pulled off its splines Each end held with retaining ring - pops off with light leverage. don't forget the shaft spline as well & check gaiters / knuckle joints for water damage. The job takes about an hour & is bloody good insurance against shaft component wear & tear / failure . Change the bevel box oil each time you oil change - quick job / cheap also good insurance against faliure
 
You need to use a grease named Stabarag - its a specialist 'anti fling' grease Moly is no good as too light Stabarag is the BMW recommended grease. dropping the rear end is easy, remove rear wheel / calliper / ABS sensor (plug with a rag to prevent leaks) remove link arm rear bolt & lower the shaft body. Shaft can then be pulled off its splines Each end held with retaining ring - pops off with light leverage. don't forget the shaft spline as well & check gaiters / knuckle joints for water damage. The job takes about an hour & is bloody good insurance against shaft component wear & tear / failure . Change the bevel box oil each time you oil change - quick job / cheap also good insurance against faliure

1b8efb6f04479f06e256ee8d2d788c74.jpg


Can you recommend a supplier of Stabarag my dealer sold me this today!
 
WCGSA 2014 7000 mis, now tucked away for the salt season so a bit of tlc being fettled today:
Final drive oil drain:
i-4TX3HPP-M.jpg

Then flushed with oil left over from a previous year, whilst rotating the drive (a bit anal I know:))
Don't forget that the magnetic drain plug has a DEEP recess and mine was full of THICK magnetic gunk, which needed scraping out with a screwdriver:
i-StVbDdh-M.jpg

(No chunks of metal to report on mine but run to a dealer if you find any in yours! )
Check condition of the O ring (should replace it)
I'm leaving it for a while dripping (a few other jobs to do) and then I'll drop the drive,look at the shaft splines, lube if req and post a pic (with comparison to what I found on my horrendously rusty 07) :D
 


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