Electrical Weirdness II - The Sequel

[MikeO]

Having sorted out the original electrical problems on my 02 Adv by having the starter motor replaced, I rode over to the East Mids meet at Great Casterton last night.

I noticed on the way over that the horn didn't work. I can't remember the last time I had to use it (MoT in March probably), so I initially put it down to a fuse...

However, at the end of the evening, as I started riding back, I noticed that the main beam headlamp didn't work, neither did the tell tale idiot light. However, the horn now worked OK...

So, after 80 odd miles on dipped beam (augmented by fog lights), I got home. Tried a combination of lights on/off/flasher switch etc - no joy, the main beam didn't want to know.

This morning, I took the main beam bulb out - it looks fine. With the bulb out, the flasher switch works - that is to say it lights the idiot light on the panel. However, as soon as I reconnected the bulb it reverted to its previous inaction. I changed the bulb and the results were the same.

I have auxiliary lights wired into both the dipped and main beam circuits. The wiring diagram is here:

The fog lights, wired to come on with the dipped headlight (also isolated by an Autoswitch) work as designed. However, none of the 3 lights (1 headlamp and 2 spots) work on main beam. When main beam is on, the fog lights should go out - they currently stay on whatever the position of the high/lo beam switch.

On a positive note, the horn still works...

Any ideas?

Mike

 

[Greg Masters]

Mike

I'd start by pulling the l/hand bar switch apart.

If the main beam is not working, I wouldn't expect the aux lights to work either as there is no feed to trigger the relay.

That the horn is also playing up makes me suspect that there is some extract of anus inside that l/hand switch.

Greg

 

[wessie]

CMA relay stuck in position in diagram. Whack it with the universal fixing tool i.e. a hammer.

The current is flowing through the path of least resistance i.e. mainly through the faulty relay coil. There will be some current going through the main beam bulb but not enough to illuminate it. The excess current flow probably drops the voltage below the threshold for the LED to illuminate. When you remove the main beam bulb from the circuit the voltage rises enough for the LED to come on.

 

[turbine_2]

I'd start looking at the earthing and that scotchblock on the main light but mostly because I had a problem with an old FJ like this with the lights (Turned out to be the earth to the pilot light) and I distrust scotchblocks.

 

[finglonga]

I am sure i read when i was fitting mine that the autoswitch has a circuit breaker built in. It may be worth removing the main power supply to the switch to reset it.(I think that is how you do it)

I second the scotchblock idea too, I used that diagram of yours to fit my lights but soldered all the joints as damp conditions kill s/blocks.

 

[MikeO]

Thanks all for your suggestions. I've examined the two relays and one isn't clicking at all - so I'm leaning towards Wessie's suggestion. All the joints are soldered with the exception of the two 'trigger' power take offs from the headlights, which are Scotchlocks (shudder).

I've also noticed that the front sidelight is not working (though this may simply be a bad bulb.

I've had to put it back together for now, but have unexpectedly got the entire day free tomorrow, so I'm going to start taking things to bits - probably starting with the headlamp/instrument binnacle with a view to replacing the scotchlocks with soldered joints. If that doesn't do the trick, I'll get a new pair of relays (they're 3 yrs and about 70k miles old, so they've had a hard life).

Please keep the ideas coming!

Cheers

Mike

 

[Den]

I know.. I know. Im an Electrician, so I know wot im speakin about.
You have got far too many wires Mike.
The electricity from you battery is taking so long to fill up all these wires , it would take a while to reach your bulb filaments.
Keep the flasher button pressed for a while before switching on your main beam. This action will "prime" the wires and they will be full when you require full beam.
Alternatively, if one of your wires is too far above the rest of them, you might have an air lock.
To cure this, disconnect the offending wire, bare the end, and press flasher button untill electricity flows from the end. Be careful not to let the wire drop below the level of you battery or the electricity will syphon out, flattening your battery.

Glad to lend professional help............. anybody else got any probs.

 

[Greg Masters]

I know.. I know. Im an Electrician, so I know wot im speakin about.
You have got far too many wires Mike.
The electricity from you battery is taking so long to fill up all these wires , it would take a while to reach your bulb filaments.
Keep the flasher button pressed for a while before switching on your main beam. This action will "prime" the wires and they will be full when you require full beam.
Alternatively, if one of your wires is too far above the rest of them, you might have an air lock.
To cure this, disconnect the offending wire, bare the end, and press flasher button untill electricity flows from the end. Be careful not to let the wire drop below the level of you battery or the electricity will syphon out, flattening your battery.

Glad to lend professional help............. anybody else got any probs.

It's pretty obvious really .... I'm surprised that it took so long for someone to come up with the answer!



Greg

 

[MikeO]

Classic Den

Mike

 

[(RIP) Shenzi]

Classic Den

Mike

It is classic Mike, they used the same system to build the pyramids. Were you there Den?

 

[ferguscawley]

I know.. I know. Im an Electrician, so I know wot im speakin about.
You have got far too many wires Mike.
The electricity from you battery is taking so long to fill up all these wires , it would take a while to reach your bulb filaments.
Keep the flasher button pressed for a while before switching on your main beam. This action will "prime" the wires and they will be full when you require full beam.
Alternatively, if one of your wires is too far above the rest of them, you might have an air lock.
To cure this, disconnect the offending wire, bare the end, and press flasher button untill electricity flows from the end. Be careful not to let the wire drop below the level of you battery or the electricity will syphon out, flattening your battery.

Glad to lend professional help............. anybody else got any probs.

Dammit Den - I was gonna say that.

However, I agree with Wessie. Change the CMA relay Mike and all should be well.

Ferg

 

[Steptoe]

your battery may be flat -







.









try pumping it up to 40 PSI

 

[John Smith]

Lights

Was the thought of following me home so shocking? ALL my lights were working plus the twin fiamms.

John.

If you need a multimeter I have a reasonable one to lend

 

[MikeO]

Update.

Couldn't get to start the job yesterday - something came up...

So, today I decided to tackle the problem logically (having first ensured my battery was inflated, no electricity leaking etc).

I started off by trying out the lights - they all worked perfectly, as did the horn...

Undeterred - I decided that wasn't good enough and went to work. I replaced the Scotchlok on the main beam live lead and fitted a 'piggly back' crimp connector inside the main beam headlamp nacelle.

I then bought a pair of new relays and cut the old ones off (they had soldered connections) one wire at a time, stripping the end of the wire, fitting a crimp on spade comnnector, then attaching it to the correct terminal before starting on the next one. After connecting the final terminal, I switched on the lights to find...

Nothing.

Only the dipped beam worked. Switching the autoswitch (which isolates the fog lamps) fired both relays, I could hear and feel them clicking.

I decided that, without a multimeter, there's little else I could do today, so put everything back together to have another go on Sunday (I need the bike tomorrow).

After re-assembling the screen etc, I started the bike up, just to make sure all was well. The main beam now works, as do the spotlights. The horn, however, does not - neither do the foglamps, although I can still hear the relays firing when I operate the Autoswitch.

I'm inclined to look at the earths for everything and the power supply for the lights (not the trigger supply from the headlamp but the one shown going to the battery in the diagram above). I'll (hopefully) borrow a multimeter tomorrow (thanks John ) and can see myself wiring that power supply direct to the battery (it's fused up in the headlamp nacelle).

Still don't understand the horn thing though - it definitely seems to be connected to the light problem in some way...

Mike

 

[(RIP) Shenzi]

Update.

Couldn't get to start the job yesterday - something came up...

The viagra worked!!!! So happy for ya Mike!!

 

[MikeO]

The viagra worked!!!! So happy for ya Mike!!