EWS! Starts, runs, cuts out on the road then clears itself only to do it again...

Did you read the thread i attached ?

Looking at your symptoms

EWS 1.jpg

Yellow = a rideable fault - but needs checking asap

EWS 2.jpg


Have you tried the method decribed in the thread i attached ?

  1. Ignition off,
  2. Handlebars full left lock position
  3. Ignition on
  4. EWS - Y / N ?
  5. Ignition off,

  7. Ignition off
  8. Handlebars straight
  9. Ignition on
  10. EWS - Y / N ?

  12. Ignition off,
  13. Handlebars full right lock position
  14. ignition on
  15. EWS - Y / N ?

If anywhere in that lot you get an EWS , then more than likley you have either

A broken wire in the headstock area, or a badly corroded or backed out pin on the EWS antenna plug or ZFE plug

The early bikes suffered with wiring being pinched due to cable ties being to f*king tight

My bike in the picture had 1 break on one wire and very cracked sheathing on 2 others


The 911 is reporting the fault , not the cause if that makes sense

Do you have a spare AWS ring anntenna ( or know someone with one) that you could borrow to establish if it is the ring antenna that is faulty

You dont have to fit it, just plug it in, and do a test ride if the faults still show, its more than likley wiring related

If the faults dissapear , then its ring antenna
 
don't think those codes relate to EWS - once started unless you stall / switch off, EWS can't cut the bike out

as once started the EWS is history for that ride - its a theft thing. does the engine ECU agree the key in the ignition is a legit one that's allowed to let the immobiliser pass the signal for start authorisation so the ignition / injectors function during that cranking session


try hunting about - was something this year about funny mileages means the ECU (or something) is having a moment
 
build like junk these days


Week 38 – BMW – S 1000 RR. Production dates: 15 January 2019 – 10 July 2026. The vibration level of the motorcycle may cause an internal component of the ignition lock to wear prematurely, leading to sporadic loss of electrical contact. As a result, the ignition may be interrupted either at a standstill or while riding.
 
botus said:
build like junk these days


Week 38 – BMW – S 1000 RR. Production dates: 15 January 2019 – 10 July 2026. The vibration level of the motorcycle may cause an internal component of the ignition lock to wear prematurely, leading to sporadic loss of electrical contact. As a result, the ignition may be interrupted either at a standstill or while riding.
Click to expand...
Once again the AI bot gives random information unrelated to the problem

The MY 07 units ignition switch is in 3 parts , a lock barrel whose sole purpose, is to prevent the ignition swith being turned

A passive/ active ring antenna which reads the key transponder to tell the bikes immobiliser to activate the igniton functions

An ignition module, possibly the most basic component you can get

On an 07 unit it's more than likley a MK1 unit it consists of two components

A tapered cam & a microswitch

The microswitch is a simple 2 wire unit with a lever contact

they get full of crud, where people spray WD 40 , graphite, water etc down the lock barrel , it runs into the ignition module and gums it up

To fix the microswitch pop it out open the cover, use some emery on the contacts , spray some electrical contct cleaner and put the cover back on

Assembly & reassembly take longer than to fix the switch, which incidentaly has nothing to vibrate loose!

The later units are potted to prevent water / debris ingress
 
Santa-2512 said:
Did you read the thread i attached ?

Looking at your symptoms

View attachment 540349

Yellow = a rideable fault - but needs checking asap

View attachment 540350


Have you tried the method decribed in the thread i attached ?

  1. Ignition off,
  2. Handlebars full left lock position
  3. Ignition on
  4. EWS - Y / N ?
  5. Ignition off,

  7. Ignition off
  8. Handlebars straight
  9. Ignition on
  10. EWS - Y / N ?

  12. Ignition off,
  13. Handlebars full right lock position
  14. ignition on
  15. EWS - Y / N ?

If anywhere in that lot you get an EWS , then more than likley you have either

A broken wire in the headstock area, or a badly corroded or backed out pin on the EWS antenna plug or ZFE plug

The early bikes suffered with wiring being pinched due to cable ties being to f*king tight

My bike in the picture had 1 break on one wire and very cracked sheathing on 2 others


The 911 is reporting the fault , not the cause if that makes sense

Do you have a spare AWS ring anntenna ( or know someone with one) that you could borrow to establish if it is the ring antenna that is faulty

You dont have to fit it, just plug it in, and do a test ride if the faults still show, its more than likley wiring related

If the faults dissapear , then its ring antenna
Click to expand...
Yes, the 911 reporting a fault, not the cause of it makes perfect sense.

I haven't specifically tried the lock to lock as above, just set the ign on and turned the bars. I'll do that this morning. (Monday 21st).

The EWS! does not ever come on at start up, historically, just the usual brake failure flashing prior to the speed sensor test.

I did look at the loom beneath the headstock yesterday and realised the distinct possibility of failure there. Lots of movement. Will investigate that.

Last night I did try the ign and heard a short buzz from the dash panel repeated at switch on. Not heard that before. Perhaps we do have a short in the wiring....

No, I haven't got a spare EWS and live in the wilds of south west Wales so borrowing one would be unlikely. Once I've convinced myself the EWS antenna is the fault I'll buy one and tape it to the headstock somewhere with a spare key and go from there.

Out to the garage....
 
OK. Just been out there.

Ign off - full right lock - ign on - yellow triangle etc - then bright yellow triangle - eng symbol - no response from the starter button - EWS! comes up - ign off.
Ign off - straight ahead position - as above.
Ign on - full left lock - as above.
Ign off - full right lock - Yellow triangle etc - no notifications - hit starter button - eng starts runs for a second then cuts out.

So I definitely have an antenna problem, a specific continuity problem between the antenna and the ZFE or possibly a general continuity/degradation problem in the wiring in the headstock area.

I'll strip it down and investigate. This might take a couple of days.....

So glad I filled the tank with 7.5 gallons of the finest unleaded......
 
Fluffy Bridges said:
OK. Just been out there.

Ign off - full right lock - ign on - yellow triangle etc - then bright yellow triangle - eng symbol - no response from the starter button - EWS! comes up - ign off.
Ign off - straight ahead position - as above.
Ign on - full left lock - as above.
Ign off - full right lock - Yellow triangle etc - no notifications - hit starter button - eng starts runs for a second then cuts out.

So I definitely have an antenna problem, a specific continuity problem between the antenna and the ZFE or possibly a general continuity/degradation problem in the wiring in the headstock area.

I'll strip it down and investigate. This might take a couple of days.....

So glad I filled the tank with 7.5 gallons of the finest unleaded......
Click to expand...
Could be wiring & ring antenna

But my bet is wiring

Right lock - pushes the wires together
Left lock - pulls them apart

Either way, your going to spend an afternoon with your bike wishing the wiring wasnt such a bastard to get to

Check all the wires as shown in your haynes manual
 
Fluffy Bridges said:
So I definitely have an antenna problem, a specific continuity problem between the antenna and the ZFE or possibly a general continuity/degradation problem in the wiring in the headstock area.

I'll strip it down and investigate. This might take a couple of days.....
Click to expand...
@Fluffy Bridges Personally I would be getting a known good Antenna BEFORE you go digging in the wiring its an easy swap out and stay local for your test ride ;) DAMHIK !!!

There is every chance that there is a vibration crack in something internally that moving the bars flexes and disconnects

Also flush out the Ignition switch area because that is a possibility for a resistance change or XYZ with the accumulated Goop in there
 
DrFarkoff said:
@Fluffy Bridges Personally I would be getting a known good Antenna BEFORE you go digging in the wiring its an easy swap out and stay local for your test ride ;) DAMHIK !!!

There is every chance that there is a vibration crack in something internally that moving the bars flexes and disconnects

Also flush out the Ignition switch area because that is a possibility for a resistance change or XYZ with the accumulated Goop in there
Click to expand...
Sherlocks have a reasonably priced, good used one. It'll be here tomorrow. If it makes no difference I'll have a test spare for anybody I can help... If it doesn't it's a dive into the wiring.....
 
Process of elimination - you'll get there. No harm buying some of this to re wrap the loom. I used quite a bit of it myself recently and it does the job nicely.
 
Before you unwrap the loom, do the continuity tests as per post 10, making sure to move the bars from lock to lock as you do so.
If you find which wire is broken, at least you can either:
Unwrap the loom with a view to locating and repairing the wire.
Or
Cut the wire at both ends and splice a new one in, to save unwrapping the loom. Easier option IMHO.
 
Ring antenna arrived this lunchtime. If you haven't used James Sherlock for used bits he is very good and completely fair in the event of a conflict. Full disclosure, I worked for him for a short time, quite some time ago. Used to advertise on here, haven't looked to see if he still does. (Edit: Yup, just checked).

Anyway, fitted the antenna and no difference made. So bodywork off, tank off (Comfy Old Boots - that was a struggle especially as I forgot to take the inlet trumpet off first) and I am now contemplating the pin continuity before exposing the wiring. Looks as if I'm going to need to remove the ign. switch etc for access. Is that a Good Thing? If so, will need to drill off the security bolt heads - not a problem :oops: .
 
Fluffy Bridges said:
Ring antenna arrived this lunchtime. If you haven't used James Sherlock for used bits he is very good and completely fair in the event of a conflict. Full disclosure, I worked for him for a short time, quite some time ago. Used to advertise on here, haven't looked to see if he still does. (Edit: Yup, just checked).

Anyway, fitted the antenna and no difference made. So bodywork off, tank off (Comfy Old Boots - that was a struggle especially as I forgot to take the inlet trumpet off first) and I am now contemplating the pin continuity before exposing the wiring. Looks as if I'm going to need to remove the ign. switch etc for access. Is that a Good Thing? If so, will need to drill off the security bolt heads - not a problem :oops: .
Click to expand...
No, a very fine torx screwdriver will separate the ignition module from the lock barrel

It gives you the option to open the ignition module and spray contact cleaner


You only need to remove the security screws if repalcing the lock barrel & ring antenna

My money is still on a broken wire or two
 
All I can help with is once it’s off you’ll be able to take it off next time with little drama!

Take loads of photos. Helpful when wondering what is where etc. I found out the hard way. Best of luck with it. You’ll get there.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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