Exhaust flap valve widget

[Mark Hooton]

Just a suggestion

mate, give it a damn good clean and regular soakings in WD40 or something like that.

I personally feel it wasn`t one of the best ideas BMW came up with - its in a horrible place and open to all sorts of crap off the road.

Seeems to work for me, I agree with all posts and you must make your own decision but sometimes if it aint broke don`t fix it........... (or remove it).

Whatever you do - best of luck!



Mark
www.cymarcbikeparts.co.uk

 

[Roymondo]

Poxy thing has seized up yet again. Hey, ho - back to the dealer I go...

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

No experience with the BM valve but I have an EXUP. Bit different design in that the valve is a lot closer to the engine but it makes a hell of a difference to the low mid range. On the EXUP graphite grease is used to lube it and so long as you keep on top of that it works well. It can also twist with heat making it tight, sticking it in the vice and twisting it back sorts that out. WD40 on the EXUP doesn't do squat, it burns of in seconds because it is so close the the engine. Might work on the BM because its further away but it still gets pretty damn hot where it is so I would be dubious on it working for any length of time. If it can be striped then graphite grease would be they way to go. If it cant then a graphite spray might do the job. Maybe even a graphite lock lube would work. Its not the oil/grease that does the job, its the graphite it leave behind.

 

[Roymondo]

(second) new valve now fitted. Looks like BMW have changed the design. I'm pretty sure the original (and the first replacement) didn't have the bearing/support visible in this photo:

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[cookie]

found mine seized the other day so i thought i'd better have a look at it. couldn't find any pics on ukgser, so i took some as i went.

tail can and cable pulley cover off

the butterfly valve

mine was stuck pretty well. i could move it with difficulty, but Plus Gas, other potions and waggling it about a bit weren't freeing it up much. i'll soak it in diesel for a while and see how it goes, but i think it's toast

 

[ghiribizzo]

Cookie - take the cables off and remove the fitting. Then heat it up to hot. About 200C, then drop graphited oil into the spindle on the inside of it.
It may take a fair bit of visegrip action before it frees off.

 

[cookie]

i'll give that a go tomorrow maybe. gotta take the dog out now

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

i'll give that a go tomorrow maybe. gotta take the dog out now

Jeez, one little bike problem and you take out the dog??

 

[cookie]

soak in diesel did zilch, so i heated it up and applied graphite as suggested (twice), it freed up a bit, but not enough for the spring to have any effect or the servo to move it more than a few degrees

bit of a waste of time then, and a warranty replacement when convenient.

dog is alive and well, but i'm going to take him out again now

 

[ghiribizzo]

Poor dog...

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Dog is alive after soaking in diesel and heating up...my God, this is getting worse....good you can get a new dog under warranty though, impressed!!

 

[cookie]

bmw have made a few dogs in their time, but their warranties are top drawer

 

[rodsharp]

Just checked mine as a result of this thread. Two summers and 13000 miles so thought it worth looking at. Clean as a whistle and moving fully and freely.

 

[Bendy toy]

Its always worth dripping some graphited oil into the bearings

 

[Freddie]

Would the 'sticky flap plague' be the reason why every now and then when I turn on the ignition, I can hear a whizzing and a click sound several times - like theres a servo trying to open/close but can't (this happens in the calm silence before I hit the starter). If I turn off ignition and turn it on again - whizzing stops. Is it a tough job to unbolt remove and clean? - does it need 'proper' setting up again afterwards (like my old EXUP Fazer) or leave it as set and just put it back together? Seems like a weekend 'I'm just going to the shed, I may be some time' excuse looms.......

 

[cookie]

Would the 'sticky flap plague' be the reason why every now and then when I turn on the ignition, I can hear a whizzing and a click sound several times - like theres a servo trying to open/close but can't (this happens in the calm silence before I hit the starter).

that sounds the same as mine.

Is it a tough job to unbolt remove and clean? - does it need 'proper' setting up again afterwards (like my old EXUP Fazer) or leave it as set and just put it back together?

comes off quite easily. you can undo the cables without altering the adjustment, which doesn't look too hard anyway