exhaust removal

[Bubb]

I am currently resurrecting (rather than restoring, as I do want the bike to show its 30yrs) a R80ST
(and No, I will NOT be turning it into a G/S !) and am having a bit of a problem getting the exhausts to separate from the heads.. The exhaust is a full stainless system...
I have cut the nuts and they are off without damaging the threads, and have split the collar away from the heads with
an old chisel, but the exhausts will not free from the heads. I applied penetrating fluid and left overnight, and then re-applied and left another 24 hours, but the exhausts refuse to budge. I even tried giving then a couple of sharp taps
with a wooden mallet (with cloth to prevent damaging the downpipes.

Any ideas greatly received as to how I can get the exhausts to release from the heads, or have they welded themselves in there?

Thanks in advance.

Bubb

 

[Rob Farmer]

If it runs fire the bike up and let it run then beat the crap out of it with a long piece of wood and a lump hammer. Worked a treat with David nimrods last year.

 

[chrisshrops]

I ended up bashing the buggery out of mine with a dead blow hammer ,it took hours not fun but we got there in the end

 

[Kenny]

Dead blow hammer as mentioned above

There is also a freeze spray penetrating fluid ( as it says, freezes the metal downpipe, thus shrinking it and penetrates at the same time ) plus the healthy wack with the dead blows 'ammer !!

 

[MartinS]

The last time I did this was on a honda firestorm. I didn't have access to many tools for the job. In the end I used freezer packs (soft ones) and gaffer tape to cool the header pipes (took about an hour to have any effect) and powerful hair dryer to gently heat the exhaust pipes at the same time (aimed at a point away from the join to dissipate heat evenly), then a smack with a rubber mallet using a good wodge of cloth. I'd considered using a kitchen blow torch for heating the exhaust pipes too as I had one to hand, but wasn't sure how such a direct heat would affect the pipes.

Kenny's idea of freeze spray is a more elegant way of cooling the downpipes than mine.

 

[Mike Wilkins]

Had same problem on one of mine, also stainless. My cyl head man cut the stainless pipe flush with threaded insert than ground a slot to free the welded in stub.
I bought stock headers non stainless with balance pipe. These were not compatible with my stainless y section, so I had the original tig welded back together by GArtrac of Chiddingfold, job done. Just needed some finishing off and polishing. The exhaust nut hides what little u can see of the joint

 

[Mike Wilkins]

p.S my stock headers are available if u need them, £80 posted what I paid

 

[David Nimrod]

If it runs fire the bike up and let it run then beat the crap out of it with a long piece of wood and a lump hammer. Worked a treat with David nimrods last year.

Yeah, I remember it well ,)


Sent from my phone, using weird magic...

 

[Steptoe]

The exhaust fin removal tool can also be used to knock the pipes out of the head.
The inner round part of the tool fits onto the bend in pipes, and then hit the end of the tool.

 

[Bubb]

Thanks

Thanks to all for the helpful ideas.

I did triumph today by using my hot air paint stripper gun to heat the heads, and plumbers freeze spray on the downpipes.... then a piece of 2 X 2 and a lump hammer.... and yeehaaa, they are off!

Thanks for all the tips and ideas ... would never have thought to use the exhaust spanner on the inside of the pipes ...
ta Steptoe, I will file that for future use.

Now just have to clean and polish the pipes, collector box and silencer as they are filthy.
Then buy 2 x new exhaust nuts and the rings that fit inside, clean up the threads, and ready to refit.

Its taking time, but the renovation continues..... its absorbing, and a good learning experience for me.

Thanks again y'all

Bubb