FD Being Difficult

GrumpyTwo

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I put the bike on its centre stand to start the final drive oil change process and I noticed whilst undoing the wheel bolts that the rear wheel needed a bit of effort to turn it. I put this down to a sticky brake calliper as it has been sitting for a couple of weeks.
I got the wheel off and the calliper, speed sensor etc. and it is just as bad, needing a bit of effort to turn the brake disk.
I have drained the oil, black and sludgy, greased the pinion with CV joint grease and fitted it back in to the driveshaft. There was no play in the pinion and everything was clean and bright with no visible signs of wear.
However there is no discernible difference in the effort needed to turn it, it is still difficult where I imagined the wheel would spin. I’ve not filled it back up with oil yet or put the wheel etc. back on.
Is this a normal trait with the final drive, am I worrying about nothing or should I be concerned?

Forgot to say, it's a 2006 GS with 20,000 miles on the clock.
 
Put it in Neutral :D


How hard is it to turn ?
Mine doesn't exactly 'spin freely'.....
If you can turn the wheel using a couple of fingers then there's not too much to worry about.
If you have to use your whole hand and put some real effort into it, then summits wrong.
 
Put it in Neutral :D


How hard is it to turn ?
Mine doesn't exactly 'spin freely'.....
If you can turn the wheel using a couple of fingers then there's not too much to worry about.
If you have to use your whole hand and put some real effort into it, then summits wrong.

Something is wrong then, it takes a whole hand and a pull to turn it, I hate fecking BMWs.
 
I think when Angus means it should be easy to turn, is when the wheel is mounted. Trying to turn the hub from the disc, I think would take quite a bit more effort, simply due to the lack of leverage. I've never known one to be free enough to spin like a bicycle wheel...

If you've no play in the hub, and the disc and pads have worn evenly, I'd not worry about and just keep riding it :thumb2
 
Yes indeedy, I meant the effort required at the wheel rim.

Ahhhh now that might be different, I was turning the wheel using one hand and I thought it was a bit stiff but as I said put it down to the brakes not being used for a while.
I'll stick it back together tonight and try it again with fresh oil in it and report back :D

Thanks for that, Bendy Toy has got me paranoid with talk of corrosion and failing drives etc. :D
 
What state is your gearbox oil in?

That is next on my list, it was "serviced" by the selling dealer before I picked it up, they changed the engine oil but not the oil filter, so the gearbox oil might be clean, if not I'll change it.
 
Ive just changed my gearbox and FD oils. I have the drain plug on mine so I measured 200ml went into the FD. The gearbox should have taken the remaining 800ml but it was overflowing before the bottle was fully empty. The bike was vertical so I guess the capacity figures are for a totally dry gearbox.
 
Since it was layed up a while I would of taken it out for a short spin then retried the wheel to see if it spun any easier....the small amount of heat in the drive area could allow it to free out.. My cbr was a pain in the arse to move around when left up for a week or so..
 
Changed the gearbox oil tonight just to be on the safe side, it did look like new when I drained it but you never know what the dealer put in...

Intrestingly (well to me, probably not to anyone else) after filing the final drive with new oil and putting it back together minus the caliper and wheel, I can now turn the disk with one finger and a little effort, unlike yesterday when it would hardly move even with two hands and a lot of effort.

Must have been fixed by BMW fairies during the night:D
 
Taking the caliper off the bike will have shifted the pads enough for the disc to run freely. The pads may well be sticking in their slides.
 
Ive just changed my gearbox and FD oils. I have the drain plug on mine so I measured 200ml went into the FD. The gearbox should have taken the remaining 800ml but it was overflowing before the bottle was fully empty. The bike was vertical so I guess the capacity figures are for a totally dry gearbox.

I thought it was reduced to 180mls?
 
I has to use the speed sensor so thought 200ml will be sure its adequately filled. The main wheel bearing feels fine so if it leaks I'll know why.

In reality it was a little less because I spilled s little oil.
 


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