FD Castle Nut

Hi Patzx12,
I'm not a paid member hence couldn't PM you. I need the castle nut here pretty bad. Do you think you could send it over to Singapore? Do let me know how much is the postage costs and I'll PayPal over. My email is [email protected]. Cheers!
 
Hi i am making a few but on holiday this week. I will de back early next week and see how quickly i can get them finished. No problem posting to you.
 
Hello Patzx12,
Thanks for your reply...

One question on the tightening of the threaded ring using this castle nut. Do you guys torque it to specs using the proper torque wrench? I am thinking it would be rather difficult using the torque wrench as the mating of the castle nut to the threaded ring is rather small.. The tendency for the nut to tilt and slip may cause damage to the threaded ring is high. No? If you guys have any tips on tightening it, would appreciate if you could share it with me.

Or it does not really matter... Just use a impact gun to tighten it would be good enough.

Also do we need to apply loctite 263(high strength) to the threaded ring and the nut for the bevel pinion shift? I'm just changing the shaft seal on the pinion shaft.

Thank you in advance!

Regards
Dylan
 
The nut and castle nut is very tight, you need a fixture to hold the FD in place and stop it from spinning. The Castle nut wrenches i made are a snug fit and locate on the diameter of the shaft so it will not twist when tightening. I used a fairly basic tourqe wrench. Thread lock everything.
 
Hello Patzx12,
Also do we need to apply loctite 263(high strength) to the threaded ring and the nut for the bevel pinion shift? I'm just changing the shaft seal on the pinion shaft.

Patz and Mikeyboy are THE MEN for this, but why would you change the seal and not replace the bearings? Patz had a pinion nose bearing that was not making any noise but when opened up was rough and heading for failure. When they go the FD instantly becomes an anchor.
 
I will have a look when I am in the workshop. No problem sending to Spain.

Thanks a lot. It's my third breakdown in the FD. First the outer seal, then the worn crown bearing seat and now oil loss and clearance by the pinion ... I need to disassemble to see what damage is inside.
 
Thanks a lot. It's my third breakdown in the FD. First the outer seal, then the worn crown bearing seat and now oil loss and clearance by the pinion ... I need to disassemble to see what damage is inside.

Having seen what Pat had to say about his FD nose bearing, I went straight for a rebuild when mine started to leak. Mikeyboy did the job saying all bearings (not only the wheel bearing) were at end of life.
 
I left mine to a professional because I don't have the necessary fixtures to hold the FD casing while stripping and rebuilding. There are some heavy torque settings in there parts from the stink of gearbox oil is not much fun in a garage attached to the house.
 
It is true that it is necessary to hold the fd strongly, I made a support with different pieces and gave results. But to make the castle nut you need a professional milling machine. The problem of oil is less, although sometimes the oil of the fd gives a bit of bad smell...
 
I'm interested.
Might be a good time to learn how to fix the final drives on the 1200s.
I hear that its costing BWM so much money in warranty/goodwill fixes for the units that they are considering making it a consumable.

May as well make the whole Bike a "Consumable" then!
I don't consider the Diff in my Rear Axle to be a Consumable in my Car and it's exactly the same principal IMHO.

Sorry Pat...bit off topic I guess!
 
Clearly the final drive should not be a consumable item but for some reason BMW cut corners on the design. Who knows why they needed to redesign the 1150 FD. We don't hear nearly so many stories of failed 1150 final drives.
 


Back
Top Bottom