FD Castle Nut

Make sure you follow the correct procedure re: temperatures, its important that you heat up the parts as per the BMW worksheets before pulling off bearings.
 
Thank you all, but if i can't get the castlenut out i won't be able to start te job.
If someone can help me to deliver one, that would be nice!
 
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Mikeyboy is at
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Hall Farm
Holwell
Nr Melton Mowbray
LE14 4SZ
44 (0) 7786 340692
 
Today was the big day.. the castlenut is out!

I could borrow from a friend of a friend (of a freind) a original bmw tool to remove the nut. A long bar (2 meters!)was needed to give the nut his final kick, but after that it was peanuts.
Everything came out easily, the castlenut isn't even damaged on the inside. I hope that tommorow all het seals and bearings will arrive at the bmw dealer. The only bearing that was damaged was the big one behind that nut. the small bearing wasn't that bad. Hopefully the K is ready before the end of the week!
 
For those who like to look..

11qsmtf.jpg
(original tool)
j8ehaw.jpg
(damaged bearing)
m9bslg.jpg
(New parts)

:)
 
I will put up a better drawing for the mounting plate i used as a fixture.
I you are Autocad savvy, pm me your email and i will send you the .dwg file.
By the way Autocad is now a free download: Draftsight.
 
I have had a number of PM,s regarding the FD Castle nut wrench.
So here you go:
I could make some up for members but i would need to do a batch, its not practicle to do a one off.

Hi,
Do you have any more left?
How much would shipping be to Sweden?
 
We have a problem with the needle bearing and the house of the final drive..

Everytime when we fit a new needle bearing, the bearing will not roll properly after it is installed, the house measures 29,98 mm, the bearing 30,00mm
After removing the bearing everything rolls fine again. It seems to be that the hole is a little too small for the new bearing, we can use a reamer to make the hole a little bigger.

Can someone give me a hint?
:blast
 
Bearings can be supplied with different internal clearances. Maybe the clearance inside your bearing is just too small so it goes tight when fitted. See if you can get one with wider internal clearance.
 
We have a problem with the needle bearing and the house of the final drive..

Everytime when we fit a new needle bearing, the bearing will not roll properly after it is installed, the house measures 29,98 mm, the bearing 30,00mm
After removing the bearing everything rolls fine again. It seems to be that the hole is a little too small for the new bearing, we can use a reamer to make the hole a little bigger.

Can someone give me a hint?
:blast
difficult to say where you are going wrong,as the info given is a bit vague.
it sounds to me like you have damaged one of the bearing seats,and the bearings are not seating.
also i am a bit worried if you have fitted more than one pinion nose bearing,are you drifting them in cold??????
if you are you have probably fucked the job right up.
there is no margin for error with this final drive,it has to be done right first time.
using the correct tools and engineering principles the nose bearing should drop in square and bottomed.
the casing NEEDS to be at 120 degrees and the bearing needs to be frozen.
if you have been knocking bearings in and out it will be scrap.
mike
 
I'm back from my trip, the bike and final drive did a good job.

I didn't damage anything and did it "by the book", but the first strange thing was the pin that wouldn't come out of the hole.
I heard that heat can shrink material after cooling down, maybe there was overheating that was caused by the old broken bearing...??? (i really can't tell)

But after making the hole bigger (0,02mm) we placed the bearing in it's seat, and closed the final drive, and gave it a try, now 4500km further i could not find a single metal part on my abs sensor.
I learned one lesson here.. refresh the oil even if you have "long life" just like mine had, taking the drive out is peanuts if your final drive has no drain plug. The old oil looked more like syrop with a horrible smell!

:beerjug:
 


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