FD Shaft adjustment!!

[digga]

R1150R 04 plate

Took the bike for an early MOT today
The tester reckons there is a 'clunk' noise from the FD!!

He described the noise as like that when a drive chain needs to be taken up a bit...

He did point out that the way to adjust the final drive was to remove tghe wheel to gain access to that large 'nut'. slacken the nut and use a large allen key to turn and do the adjustment.

Anybody got an idea as to what adjustment he means, is it liable to be catastrophic. Is that the way to adjust whatever it adjusts ..

cheers

 

[argos]

paralever bearings,what the bevel box pivots on the shaft from,sometimes you can get away with torquing them up.If not dont worry easy to do .parts not expensive

 

[mike wright]

 

[Stewart H]

The man has just redesigned all BMW final drives hurrah! It sounds a bit like he is describing setting up the paralever bearings
If theres no wheel play top to bottom or front/rear then has he found paralever bearing play? or backlash from worn driveshaft UJs? how much backlash at the rear wheel is permissible? I just checked my rear wheel in first gear I have not more than ten degrees of backlash. BTW did it pass the test?
Stewart

 

[digga]

The man has just redesigned all BMW final drives hurrah! It sounds a bit like he is describing setting up the paralever bearings
If theres no wheel play top to bottom or front/rear then has he found paralever bearing play? or backlash from worn driveshaft UJs? how much backlash at the rear wheel is permissible? I just checked my rear wheel in first gear I have not more than ten degrees of backlash. BTW did it pass the test?
Stewart

Yes it did pass

and the diagram that Mike Wright posted with the highlighted section is what he referred too... what is part 6.... a concentric shaft? that tightens against another part?

I did feel for bearing play at the the tyre ... it is very small .. back to front..

 

[argos]

part 6 is apin that the FD pivots about.There is a taper roller bearing and cup that sits on that side and one on the opposite side

 

[Steptoe]

Try adjusting the bearing before replacing it. If it only had slight play, and if it's not had play for long they usually adjust OK. You don't even have to remove the rear wheel. Use an extension through the spokes, loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster nut.

 

[digga]

Mr St.Eptoe... will it be evident if the bearing is able to be tightened? i.e the adjuster will move the relative amount and no more. or is it possible to 'overtighten' the adjuster?

as the man said... its only a small amount..

 

[Bronco Billy]

Try adjusting the bearing before replacing it. If it only had slight play, and if it's not had play for long they usually adjust OK. You don't even have to remove the rear wheel. Use an extension through the spokes, loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster nut.

Steppers, Surely you could only do that after removing the loctite ...

 

[Steptoe]

Steppers, Surely you could only do that after removing the loctite ...

Nope. Loosen the the locknut with a socket on an extension throught the wheel spokes, Slip an open ended spanner down onto the nut, nip up the adjuster until the play has gone if you feel roughness or they feel graunchy they're fecked), retighten the locknut - If play returns after a short while the bearings need replacing.
If it stays "play free" ( most stay that way after adjusting)then don't worry about it.


I never use locktite when replacing the bearings anyway. And i've never had one come undone, as long as you do them up tight enough.

 

[andy white]

Paralever and Final drive overhaul.

Hello Everyone,

I have a 1999 R1100GS, and after checking on here I have found my Paralever Bearings have play in them, I tightened them up as Steptoe advised but the play has returned, (up to 8mm of longitudinal play in the wheel/Final drive into the Paralever. I am going to change the Paralever bearings and the final drive bearing. I have had a good look round on here for info on this.
My question is;

Will i need a bearing puller to remove the old Paralever and final drive bearings?

I have seen that the final drive bearing can be done at the roadside in an emergency, so im happy with that job.

The Paralever bearings look more tricky, has anyone had trouble replacing them?

Cheers

 

[Steptoe]

Will i need a bearing puller to remove the old Paralever and final drive bearings?

No - You don't even have to completely remove the final drive.
Remove the pivot pins, leave the torque arm attached to the bottom of the final drive. pull the final drive away from the swingarm and let the torque arm hold it upright. Remove the short shaft, put a suitable sized socket inside the final drive against the bearing case, then insert an extension bar through the opposite side and tap out the bearing. Same for the other side.

I have seen that the final drive bearing can be done at the roadside in an emergency, so im happy with that job.

The Paralever bearings look more tricky, has anyone had trouble replacing them?

You've got that totally the wrong way around - The exact opposite is true.

 

[ianboydsnr]

Nope. Loosen the the locknut with a socket on an extension throught the wheel spokes, Slip an open ended spanner down onto the nut, nip up the adjuster until the play has gone if you feel roughness or they feel graunchy they're fecked), retighten the locknut - If play returns after a short while the bearings need replacing.
If it stays "play free" ( most stay that way after adjusting)then don't worry about it.


I never use locktite when replacing the bearings anyway. And i've never had one come undone, as long as you do them up tight enough.

I never do either, just mark the positions with a magic marker, have heard of them coming loose, but mine have never

 

[andy white]

Hi All,

Thanks for the info Steptoe and Ian, Im not going to bother with Locktite either.


Cheers

 

[SlowJohn]

I'm not sure if I'm confusing a problem I have with a completely different one here BUT ...

I can put my 2003 1150GSA into first gear on the mainstand and can then move my rear wheel about 70mm forward and back. That seems a lot to me! Any ideas gratefully received.

 

[Steptoe]

I'm not sure if I'm confusing a problem I have with a completely different one here BUT ...

I can put my 2003 1150GSA into first gear on the mainstand and can then move my rear wheel about 70mm forward and back. That seems a lot to me! Any ideas gratefully received.

Your "problem" isn't a problem.

Stop reading on the internet and just ride it.

 

[SlowJohn]

Your "problem" isn't a problem.

Stop reading on the internet and just ride it.

LOL ... I like that plan. Thanks, you've cheered me up no end!

When I'm riding it slowly in first there's a bit of a clunk when I drop the clutch, that's what made me start looking.