Final drive drain plug stuck...help!

[freddyfruitbat]

Just been attempting to change my final drive oil (for the first time during my ownership of the bike). It look an awful lot of pulling to get the filler plug out, but I just can't shift the drain plug. I mean, I could certainly pull harder than I am, but it's obviously been massively overtightened (or has seized?) and I'm uncomfortable applying any more force. What to do? Any advice or tips?

Just for a bit of background, the bike had some work done at a dealership last year, and they managed to strip the thread on a coolant drain plug, which certainly won't have been touched since the bike was first assembled. Which does make me worry about going down the same road now.

 

[Andy63]

Try applying some heat to the drain plug if you havent already. Hot air gun or even a hair dryer on high.

 

[Benhur Malta]

let me guess.....the coolant drain plug they screwed up was the one protruding from the cylinder head (the one on the right sitting on the bike)....i had the same stripped plug.

i am far from qualified to comment, but maybe if you try to open the drain plug after a good long ride when the final drive is hot, it will be enough to get it open without any damage.

ALSO, and I mean this seriously, please make sure you are loosening not tightening the plug.....its underneath so it could be ":the other way round"

 

[kevmax]

Perfect example of why we open the fill plug before the drain. If all else fails opening that drain plug. It'll take a little more work, but you can take off the whole rear drive housing. Which will allow you to work on a bench. Try a combination of heat, penetrating oil. Try both loosen and tighten it in tiny increments, paying close attention you don't ring the head on it. It may take a day of patients, but it should come out. Whatever you do don't be tempted to use an impact driver unless you know what your at. Best of luck pal!

 

[Bigcats]

Erm the final drive drain plug has a rubber O-ring before you go melting that folks!!!

(R1250 GSA)

 

[DJ123]

Erm the final drive drain plug has a rubber seal before you go melting that folks!!!

(R1250 GSA)

which should be replaced every time when changing the oil! So it shouldn't be an issue if it melts a bit

 

[theoneandonly]

take it to an adult , give them the problem.

 

[Bigcats]

What do you mean by pull it out?? Are you saying its not unscrewing??

Its really not possible to overtighten as it would just strip the thread (ask me how I know)

 

[TIJ650]

Welcome to Motorrad’s excessive use of blue loctite. Heat gun was the first thing I bought. If you don’t heat, you’ll strip threads - that simple


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[The Other PaulG]

If it really is stuck, how about using a syringe with a length of plastic tubing and drain it from the fill hole?

 

[freddyfruitbat]

Thanks all.
I did warm the bike up before attempting this (to get the oil flowing); but of course it won’t have been as hot as from a hot air gun.

A hot air gun will remove the paint if I’m not careful - right? Or is it heat proof? Also - am I aiming to heat the drain plug, the housing, or the whole lot? (I’ve got a new O-ring ready and waiting!)

I’d forgotten about the possibility of an impact driver - would it be a bad idea to try that then? I’ve got one somewhere…

 

[Bigcats]

Welcome to Motorrad’s excessive use of blue loctite. Heat gun was the first thing I bought. If you don’t heat, you’ll strip threads - that simple


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Why is someone using loctite on a drain plug is what I want to know!!

 

[TIJ650]

Why is someone using loctite on a drain plug is what I want to know!!

Maybe not, but BMW use it everywhere. If you don’t soften with heat, you can easily strip.


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[leadfarmer]

ALSO, and I mean this seriously, please make sure you are loosening not tightening the plug.....its underneath so it could be ":the other way round"

Worth checking, set your ratchet to check it’s “undoing” before you try to unscrew the drain plug

Its really not possible to overtighten as it would just strip the thread (ask me how I know)

Does seem surprising, the torque setting is only 20nm

Why is someone using loctite on a drain plug is what I want to know!!

Not sure that’s even possible, the threads will be full of drained oil


Just in case…….
The drain plug is a 40 Torx,
The fill plug is a 6mm Allen (some folks use a 40 torx which increases the risk of rounding out the plug)

 

[kevmax]

Thanks all.
I did warm the bike up before attempting this (to get the oil flowing); but of course it won’t have been as hot as from a hot air gun.

A hot air gun will remove the paint if I’m not careful - right? Or is it heat proof? Also - am I aiming to heat the drain plug, the housing, or the whole lot? (I’ve got a new O-ring ready and waiting!)

I’d forgotten about the possibility of an impact driver - would it be a bad idea to try that then? I’ve got one somewhere…

Don’t use an impact on it pal. Just take off the housing and bring it to someone that knows what they’re doing. If you use the impact and strip the threads or ring the head on it that’s exactly what you’ll be doing only it will cost you more in labour and worst case damage the housing.

 

[vRSG60]

Also why on earth did BMW use a different pitch thread on the fill & drain plugs!

 

[TIJ650]

Also why on earth did BMW use a different pitch thread on the fill & drain plugs!

Build Motorcycles Weird
They simply don’t want you fucking with them?! lol


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[TIJ650]

PS. And back to the original thread (get it?! lol) If that drain plug is so corroded with not coming off so often, I can only imagine the condition of the gear oil!!
As many have suggested, maybe take the bike to the dealer. If struggling with the drain plug - there’s a lot more fun waiting for you in home DIY


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[GSMarky]

Don’t use an impact on it pal. Just take off the housing and bring it to someone that knows what they’re doing. If you use the impact and strip the threads or ring the head on it that’s exactly what you’ll be doing only it will cost you more in labour and worst case damage the housing.

This sounds like very good advice!

It's not necessarily that we don't know how to unscrew something, but that material is 'relatively' soft, so if it's that tight the threads & tool drive areas may well fail before you crack the thread. I'd remove the unit and try to shock the thread gently, apply some light heat and be absolutely sure the tool is home & square before putting the torque on it.

 

[Northern jock]

If it really is stuck, how about using a syringe with a length of plastic tubing and drain it from the fill hole?

And at least see the state of the oil. And if you can get the tube anywhere near the drain plug location you might even get some metal bits.
Measure how much you get out and see how it settles. Bush mechanics but it be a lot cheaper than stripping the thread or turning the head.