Final drive drain plug stuck...help!

[The Other PaulG]

And at least see the state of the oil. And if you can get the tube anywhere near the drain plug location you might even get some metal bits.
Measure how much you get out and see how it settles. Bush mechanics but it be a lot cheaper than stripping the thread or turning the head.

Plus you're back on the road in 20 minutes rather than a week....

I'd in fact half refill the FD with oil, spin it a few times then suck it out again before adding the final oil. I doubt there'd be much of the original oil remaining before you refill it, and given the volumes involved, it's cheap enough.

But that's just me!

 

[Benhur Malta]

Also why on earth did BMW use a different pitch thread on the fill & drain plugs!

Possibly to make sure that the plugs are not switched round given that the drain plug has the rubber o ring?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TIJ650]

………..okay I admit it, it’s raining and I’m bored. Went out to check mine. It’s certainly easier not to mess up with a bike lift cause you notice the drain and filler plugs are different. For clarity, the filler is 6mm Allen and the drain is actually T45 (well, it is on mine). BMW do have a sense of humour though - cause the 6mm almost fits. Just enough to burrow the Torx splines! lol
Penetrating spray for couple of hours and using correct T45 without any extension. Just 3/8 ratchet or even 1/2”. Assuming you’ve not already burrowed Torx??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bigcats]

There should be around 180ml of Gear Oil if you do as suggested (thats how much should go in on replacement)

 

[Bigcats]

………..okay I admit it, it’s raining and I’m bored. Went out to check mine. It’s certainly easier not to mess up with a bike lift cause you notice the drain and filler plugs are different. For clarity, the filler is 6mm Allen and the drain is actually T45 (well, it is on mine). BMW do have a sense of humour though - cause the 6mm almost fits. Just enough to burrow the Torx splines! lol
Penetrating spray for couple of hours and using correct T45 without any extension. Just 3/8 ratchet or even 1/2”. Assuming you’ve not already burrowed Torx??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct...weirdly they require different sizes as well as different tools

Whoever thought that one up needs a punch

 

[kevmax]

That’s spot on. It used to be 200ml but it blew seals when it reached operating temp. So they reduce it to 180ml GL5. Let it drain for a few hours. If you’re unsure of when it was last done. No harm changing it again after a couple of rides. ( If you ever get the drain plug out)

 

[GSMarky]

That’s spot on. It used to be 200ml but it blew seals when it reached operating temp. So they reduce it to 180ml GL5. Let it drain for a few hours. If you’re unsure of when it was last done. No harm changing it again after a couple of rides. ( If you ever get the drain plug out)

Let it drain and turn the wheel with the bike in gear a bit too. I'd just let it tickover in 1st for a few mins whilst it's draining.

 

[TIJ650]

On a side note, final drive change on earlier models wasn’t even a service item and you had to drain via the filler by uncoupling the wheel housing and dropping down 45 degrees. I often challenged Motorrad on this (sure there were many others, but they said I was the only one?!) cause so much much filings and black fluid. Anyway, I’d echo PaulG’s comments. Do twice if opting for large syringe method


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dean0n0]

You are correct...weirdly they require different sizes as well as different tools

Whoever thought that one up needs a punch

BSA Bantams had same threads and heads, a mate was baffled, he was concentrating on getting the oil in the engine and only noticed the large pool of fresh oil on the floor when he stepped back. The filler plug had a breather hole, the drain didn't. He did a few entertaining things, died earlier this year.

 

[landmarkjohn]

You are correct...weirdly they require different sizes as well as different tools

Whoever thought that one up needs a punch

I think on the hexhead one of them is a ribe bit as well just for good measure! The bash plate cracks me up, 3 different sizes for 4 fixings

 

[autogs]

Let it drain and turn the wheel with the bike in gear a bit too. I'd just let it tickover in 1st for a few mins whilst it's draining.

Er I would recommend NOT doing that!

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

 

[GSMarky]

Er I would recommend NOT doing that!

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Why not? No load and helps get the oil remnants out.. Only for a min or so, I don't mean got for a ride!!

 

[autogs]

Try it and see if you think it good for the transmission/and final drive/drive shaft

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

 

[GSMarky]

Try it and see if you think it good for the transmission/and final drive/drive shaft

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Do you think turning the FD over for a minute with the drain plug removed & zero load will hurt it , the gearbox or the drive shaft?

 

[freddyfruitbat]

………..okay I admit it, it’s raining and I’m bored. Went out to check mine. It’s certainly easier not to mess up with a bike lift cause you notice the drain and filler plugs are different. For clarity, the filler is 6mm Allen and the drain is actually T45 (well, it is on mine). BMW do have a sense of humour though - cause the 6mm almost fits. Just enough to burrow the Torx splines! lol
Penetrating spray for couple of hours and using correct T45 without any extension. Just 3/8 ratchet or even 1/2”. Assuming you’ve not already burrowed Torx??

Can confirm I've been correctly using 6mm hex and T45 bits!, and none of the plugs are damaged.

Is penetrating oil likely to help, unless I remove the final drive and inverting it? Is it even worth trying? (I mean. I'm desperate obviously!, but it didn't even occur to me as an option, given that the plug's pointing at the floor...)

 

[autogs]

Do you think turning the FD over for a minute with the drain plug removed & zero load will hurt it , the gearbox or the drive shaft?

Forget drain plug,just try it on your bike and report back on your thoughts

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

 

[TIJ650]

If you haven’t damaged the Torx splines you’ll definitely get it off. BMW have that blue loctite everywhere and you need a heat gun to melt. However, it’s unlikely on the drain plug………probably just corrosion from salt splashing up. Penetrating spray and heat gun should do trick. I wouldn’t recommend impact driver, but maybe use 1/2 drive ratchet for more leverage. Gentle tap with hammer on ratchet as last resort


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TIJ650]

…………call me crazy, but tightening after penetrating spray might help too. Basically any movement will free corrosion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GSMarky]

Forget drain plug,just try it on your bike and report back on your thoughts

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

You've lost me & I'm assuming folk would have the sense to slip the clutch whilst doing this to manage backlash if that's your point..

 

[GSMarky]

Apologies to the OP for the derailment!